Monday 17 May 2010
Link to band Facebook Group
For conversations with the band and discussions about the project, collaborations within the group and research into the band. Also pictures from my first fitting with James,
click here
click here
Friday 14 May 2010
reflection on 14/05/2010 plan for weekend before Hand in!
Ok so having got my jacket lining into place ready a day later to what I hoped, I propose that;
Saturday I will complete my jacket sleeves and get them sewn in! I will then therefore decoarte the cuffs with the studs and gems and allow them time therefore to dry!
Saturday evening; I will complete my collar and once again get my decoration on so as it can dry saturday night and even into sunday!
Sunday: I propose to sew in my shirt sleeves in; finish the outside edges of this and top stitch on my pique and lower decorational piece.
Sunday late afternoon: I will sew on my jacket collar and sew on my shirt collar ready.
Sunday evening will order my pattern file ready for hand in and will complete my last blog to you; My 750 word evaluation relfecting on all elements of the project and the very valuable things regarding what I have learnt!!
If I follow this plan I should be complete and ready for my hand in!! Lets hope there are no problems which result in extra time allowance and then put back my schedule; as you can clearly see there really no time to reschedule things; I am working to a very tight time schedule!
This is not something I hope to be doing in my next year in level 6; However on a different note is something that I am sure commonly happens in the music artist costume industry!
Speak to you sunday night!!
Saturday I will complete my jacket sleeves and get them sewn in! I will then therefore decoarte the cuffs with the studs and gems and allow them time therefore to dry!
Saturday evening; I will complete my collar and once again get my decoration on so as it can dry saturday night and even into sunday!
Sunday: I propose to sew in my shirt sleeves in; finish the outside edges of this and top stitch on my pique and lower decorational piece.
Sunday late afternoon: I will sew on my jacket collar and sew on my shirt collar ready.
Sunday evening will order my pattern file ready for hand in and will complete my last blog to you; My 750 word evaluation relfecting on all elements of the project and the very valuable things regarding what I have learnt!!
If I follow this plan I should be complete and ready for my hand in!! Lets hope there are no problems which result in extra time allowance and then put back my schedule; as you can clearly see there really no time to reschedule things; I am working to a very tight time schedule!
This is not something I hope to be doing in my next year in level 6; However on a different note is something that I am sure commonly happens in the music artist costume industry!
Speak to you sunday night!!
reflection of 14/05/2010 tasks and reflection on planned schedule for week!
Ok so first things first, I am feeling a little stressed out; Thursday morning I discovered we had a meeting about our hand in(for monday) in the morning.This therefore took time away from my lining tutorial and meant that I would be set abck a little with the proceedures of my lining. Equally stress has arison due to tuesday and part of wednesday and most of thursday where my tutor was not available and therefore holding me back on my planned timed schedule that was organised to enable completion of my garments in a good time schedule allowing time for problems and dilemnas that may eruot to be solved. However; due to these two days and thursday I was feeling the stress as there was now no time for errors or problems to occur and I would be needing to work at a fast pace but still maintaining accuraacy so as problems did not occur! I feel unfortunately my plan of action has had to be suspended and rearranged which is then hard to adjust to! However i realise I must realise that this is all something that an industry professional would have to face (reorganising their time constantly, rescheduling and reassing) but also in relation to the bands or music artist's schedule too! This illustrates how time management through organision skills are very important aspects of this job in industry! At least I am practicing this; by facing these dilemnas!!!
So enough constructive reflection on my thought regarding the problems surrounding my project and my shedule.. yesterday afternoon at 5pm I did manage to grab my tutor to advise me on what I could do that evening to continue my lining so as I could get that done by tomorrow (despite planning to have the sleeves done and put in by tomorrow originally which would now not happen!!) He advised me to iron all of my seams on my jacket perfectly and press them toward the back of the jacket or in the case of the bottom skirt edge and the waistline edges press them up toward the neckline. However the back seams pressed open and flat! Then I would herringbone stitch these done into place; not going through to the front of the jacket (so as the stitch was not evident from the front) to hold them in place; this would help ensure the accuracy of my garment's lining and end success!! (My ultimate aim!)
Therefore I took this on board and completed this ready for the next morning so as I could be in a position friday to finish my lining!
Friday (today) came and went like every other day has this week! I did however manage to almost complete my lining in class til 4pm but went home and finished my slip stitching. Also tonight I have began to prepare my collar by basting the callar canvas to my shirt collar and my jacket collar and machine stitching the top line!
Today, has been a vigourously manic day and I am still feeling the stress as I have not managed to complete my sleeves as of yet! This is something that I do not wish to rush! Therefore I must remeber to keep the accuracy when completing these over the weekend!
So enough constructive reflection on my thought regarding the problems surrounding my project and my shedule.. yesterday afternoon at 5pm I did manage to grab my tutor to advise me on what I could do that evening to continue my lining so as I could get that done by tomorrow (despite planning to have the sleeves done and put in by tomorrow originally which would now not happen!!) He advised me to iron all of my seams on my jacket perfectly and press them toward the back of the jacket or in the case of the bottom skirt edge and the waistline edges press them up toward the neckline. However the back seams pressed open and flat! Then I would herringbone stitch these done into place; not going through to the front of the jacket (so as the stitch was not evident from the front) to hold them in place; this would help ensure the accuracy of my garment's lining and end success!! (My ultimate aim!)
Therefore I took this on board and completed this ready for the next morning so as I could be in a position friday to finish my lining!
Friday (today) came and went like every other day has this week! I did however manage to almost complete my lining in class til 4pm but went home and finished my slip stitching. Also tonight I have began to prepare my collar by basting the callar canvas to my shirt collar and my jacket collar and machine stitching the top line!
Today, has been a vigourously manic day and I am still feeling the stress as I have not managed to complete my sleeves as of yet! This is something that I do not wish to rush! Therefore I must remeber to keep the accuracy when completing these over the weekend!
Wednesday 12 May 2010
reflection of lining turorial 12/05/2010
First thing in the morning I grabbed my tutor to ensure I could get my queries answered; so that I would be able to continue with my schedule and catch up on it from the less productive day yesterday! My tutor did answer my queries, however regarding the shirt; simply agreed with the option I have come up with, or said that he wouldnt particularly even worry about making the seams this neat and would simply just overlock them. This option I was not satisfied with as it would not give me the lovelyt finish that I wanted; therefore I decided he had approved my suggestion regarding rollign the seams in and then top stitching them together; so I would complete the seams of my shirt this way giving the best finish I could under the circumstances.
Regarding the sleeves of my Jacket and how to line these; he said that this would be a trail and error situation and would advise I tried it the way I thought to; but if this didnt work, I would have to look into other options! He noted that there was not necessarily a right way to do this; it was more of a decision that would come from me about what worked best!
The colalr he advised I studded and decorated after I had made it up! This above advice could now help me to proceed with my garments!
Ok so today I was to be finishing learning how to line my jacket. However... due to being set back by yesterdays fustrations I was only beginning the lining process!!!
When our tutor began the tutorial, he called us over as a group to discuss the linings. I did not feel that at this point in time; this was the best way to explain it; as we were all at different stages. Two members of the group had decided on tuesday (day before) to plough on; use their initiative as our tutor was not available on the tuesday, and find out from two other students making similar 19th century style coats; how they put their linings in and follow this process. I chose yesterday not to do this, as I prefer to be assured about the process being the correct way and ensuring I am not missing out any bital steps! They performed putting in the lining the bagging out way! However, when out tutor was conducting our group tutorial he was worried to see this was the way it had been done and hence why they were having a number of issues with the fit of the lining into the garment! This was very interesting to see; as it was the example of how if something has been tailored throughout; the same degree of care and attention goes into the lining and there is no quick processes within a tailored garment! He explained how much of the lining in the coats is hand sewing (slip stitched) along with a very careful smoothing out technique! What is interesting also about the tailored way of lining a garment is it is done from as flat as possible. (This meant me undoing my shoukder seams) Therefore; this was one highlighted error or the girls implementation of their linings as they had attemoted to put it in with the garment fully sewn together and the sleeves sewn in place! Therefore for them; they not only had to remove their linings but unpick their sleeves from their garment as well as their shoulder seams too!
An interesting learning point for me (who had not began my lining; hence I would do it the correct way from start to finish) was the first thing to be done; concentrating on the front; the front lining and front facing are created separately and sewn in spearately to the rest of the lining. The front is always completed first on a tailored garment! After this, you move onto the sides and backs; where the lining is sewn together before being put in and then smoothed in and slip stiched to the side of the front lining. Then, the skirts are placed in, smoothed to ensure a perfect fit , basted down as all of the pieces are when they have been smoothed into the correct place and put in and then slip stitched into place.
A tip to avoid bulkiness in your lining; (which is not ever a tailor's way) is to cut down all the canvases to the sewing line before putting your lining in place also cut your pieces with just enough lining to fold under to slip stitch over to attach it in place.
The last thing that goes onto the jacket, eve after the sleeves is the collar!
These tips are very valuable and should help me to gain accuracy in the future next year with my projects! This will help me to work more independently on this part of my garment as I did not feel at all comfotable this time around without the help and tuition from my tutor for this part of the jacket!
Today..i only got done the front lining and facing and cutting down all of my seams and canvases! However I aim to continue tomorrow!
Regarding the sleeves of my Jacket and how to line these; he said that this would be a trail and error situation and would advise I tried it the way I thought to; but if this didnt work, I would have to look into other options! He noted that there was not necessarily a right way to do this; it was more of a decision that would come from me about what worked best!
The colalr he advised I studded and decorated after I had made it up! This above advice could now help me to proceed with my garments!
Ok so today I was to be finishing learning how to line my jacket. However... due to being set back by yesterdays fustrations I was only beginning the lining process!!!
When our tutor began the tutorial, he called us over as a group to discuss the linings. I did not feel that at this point in time; this was the best way to explain it; as we were all at different stages. Two members of the group had decided on tuesday (day before) to plough on; use their initiative as our tutor was not available on the tuesday, and find out from two other students making similar 19th century style coats; how they put their linings in and follow this process. I chose yesterday not to do this, as I prefer to be assured about the process being the correct way and ensuring I am not missing out any bital steps! They performed putting in the lining the bagging out way! However, when out tutor was conducting our group tutorial he was worried to see this was the way it had been done and hence why they were having a number of issues with the fit of the lining into the garment! This was very interesting to see; as it was the example of how if something has been tailored throughout; the same degree of care and attention goes into the lining and there is no quick processes within a tailored garment! He explained how much of the lining in the coats is hand sewing (slip stitched) along with a very careful smoothing out technique! What is interesting also about the tailored way of lining a garment is it is done from as flat as possible. (This meant me undoing my shoukder seams) Therefore; this was one highlighted error or the girls implementation of their linings as they had attemoted to put it in with the garment fully sewn together and the sleeves sewn in place! Therefore for them; they not only had to remove their linings but unpick their sleeves from their garment as well as their shoulder seams too!
An interesting learning point for me (who had not began my lining; hence I would do it the correct way from start to finish) was the first thing to be done; concentrating on the front; the front lining and front facing are created separately and sewn in spearately to the rest of the lining. The front is always completed first on a tailored garment! After this, you move onto the sides and backs; where the lining is sewn together before being put in and then smoothed in and slip stiched to the side of the front lining. Then, the skirts are placed in, smoothed to ensure a perfect fit , basted down as all of the pieces are when they have been smoothed into the correct place and put in and then slip stitched into place.
A tip to avoid bulkiness in your lining; (which is not ever a tailor's way) is to cut down all the canvases to the sewing line before putting your lining in place also cut your pieces with just enough lining to fold under to slip stitch over to attach it in place.
The last thing that goes onto the jacket, eve after the sleeves is the collar!
These tips are very valuable and should help me to gain accuracy in the future next year with my projects! This will help me to work more independently on this part of my garment as I did not feel at all comfotable this time around without the help and tuition from my tutor for this part of the jacket!
Today..i only got done the front lining and facing and cutting down all of my seams and canvases! However I aim to continue tomorrow!
Tuesday 11 May 2010
reflection on shedule and day 11/05/2010
Today was a day of major fustration! Due to having finished my cuffs and piques, I had planned to begin creating my lining or fing out how my collars went together with the camvas on. I asked to see my tutor to be able to begin this. A brief appointment was arranged, however, due to other unforseen circumstances, my tutor was not able to attend. I did not want to go about it by guessing how it should be done due to knowing that it was a tailored garment and I had only created untailored costumes; using the bagging out lining process.. incase there was a large variation in a tailored lined garment and this method!
.. however, unfortunetly the other things that I needed to do; there were elements relating to the taliored way (correct way) that i needed to check with my tutor about. For example
when considering the sleeves lining; I realised I needed to consider that the lining would be seen behind the knitted wire pattern. My orginal aim of putting the knitted wire pattern there was as decorational interest but equally so that the cream of the shirt wouls contrat against the copper colour of the wire; or so that the skin would be seen behind! Therefore, lining the whole sleeve under the pattern would defeat the initial object of the patterning! Therefore, I wanted to ask graham if he would line the sleeve with maybe a poernet type fabric to still achieve the skin colour through or if the best option was to cut the pattern out from the lining too!
also... the shirt; due to having to fit the shirt and not at this point thinking about how I was going to finish the sleeves, i sewed the shirt with normal seams. Today having researched how a tailored high fashion/ couture shirt's seams were finished.. It seemed to be suggested by the website www. threadmagazine.com/itme/3702/seam-finishes-for-silks they were created with french seams!
I wanted this confirmed so found a couture shirt company 'A.G.Bespoke Couture' and emailed the company asking about their shirt finishes; in particular inside seam finishes to gain accuracy! I recieved an email back that night from the manager stating: "Our shirts are hand made in italy with french seams, and hand sewn buttons. The fabric collection changes each season which incorporates new colours and shades introduced by latest creation of the fabric designers. The chosen item will always be absolutely exclusive, with the perfect fit and lasting comfort. We believe in investing time to achieve excellence!"
This was of great help to me and established that in order to gain a beautiful finish I would need to spend time on every aspect and stitch!
This however, was a problem as a french seam is sewn wrong sides together and then rolled in to hide the raw edge and then stitched down over the top of the original stitchline. unless I was to unpick my shirt seams and redo them all this way; I would have to discuss the other options and best tailored option with my tutor for the finish of my shirt seams. I therefore thought I would use this time wisely; seeing as my tutor wasnt available, to think of the options I could suggest to him; I considered:
Rolling both edges of the seam in and overlocking these edges,
or
double rolling both seams in (once and then over again) and then placing then together as one and then top stitching down the very edge. This would require patience and extreme care and attanetion as well as time; but in order to gain the closet to a french seam and the most attractive finish: this is the option I thought was the best!
In relation to comming up with a solution for my sleeves; I considered;
Lining the sleeves with perhaps a very thin (almost see through) skin coloured fabric
or
placing the pattern on the same place as the top fabric sleeve; cutting them both out and completing the knitted wire applique through the top fabric sleeves and the lining fabric sleeve!
I was extremely fustrated by my day as I had reached a stand still and would not be able to contibue until my tutorial the following morning. This meant that i used the rest of the afternoon to create and re jiggle my plans for the week or how I could and would catch catch up on my schedule so as i was not behind!!!
~I realise however that this is something a professional in this industry would face a lot due to the artists/bands tight schedule and therefore there is a definate need for good organisation
and time scheduling as well as flexibilty and composed mannorism.
.. however, unfortunetly the other things that I needed to do; there were elements relating to the taliored way (correct way) that i needed to check with my tutor about. For example
when considering the sleeves lining; I realised I needed to consider that the lining would be seen behind the knitted wire pattern. My orginal aim of putting the knitted wire pattern there was as decorational interest but equally so that the cream of the shirt wouls contrat against the copper colour of the wire; or so that the skin would be seen behind! Therefore, lining the whole sleeve under the pattern would defeat the initial object of the patterning! Therefore, I wanted to ask graham if he would line the sleeve with maybe a poernet type fabric to still achieve the skin colour through or if the best option was to cut the pattern out from the lining too!
also... the shirt; due to having to fit the shirt and not at this point thinking about how I was going to finish the sleeves, i sewed the shirt with normal seams. Today having researched how a tailored high fashion/ couture shirt's seams were finished.. It seemed to be suggested by the website www. threadmagazine.com/itme/3702/seam-finishes-for-silks they were created with french seams!
I wanted this confirmed so found a couture shirt company 'A.G.Bespoke Couture' and emailed the company asking about their shirt finishes; in particular inside seam finishes to gain accuracy! I recieved an email back that night from the manager stating: "Our shirts are hand made in italy with french seams, and hand sewn buttons. The fabric collection changes each season which incorporates new colours and shades introduced by latest creation of the fabric designers. The chosen item will always be absolutely exclusive, with the perfect fit and lasting comfort. We believe in investing time to achieve excellence!"
This was of great help to me and established that in order to gain a beautiful finish I would need to spend time on every aspect and stitch!
This however, was a problem as a french seam is sewn wrong sides together and then rolled in to hide the raw edge and then stitched down over the top of the original stitchline. unless I was to unpick my shirt seams and redo them all this way; I would have to discuss the other options and best tailored option with my tutor for the finish of my shirt seams. I therefore thought I would use this time wisely; seeing as my tutor wasnt available, to think of the options I could suggest to him; I considered:
Rolling both edges of the seam in and overlocking these edges,
or
double rolling both seams in (once and then over again) and then placing then together as one and then top stitching down the very edge. This would require patience and extreme care and attanetion as well as time; but in order to gain the closet to a french seam and the most attractive finish: this is the option I thought was the best!
In relation to comming up with a solution for my sleeves; I considered;
Lining the sleeves with perhaps a very thin (almost see through) skin coloured fabric
or
placing the pattern on the same place as the top fabric sleeve; cutting them both out and completing the knitted wire applique through the top fabric sleeves and the lining fabric sleeve!
I was extremely fustrated by my day as I had reached a stand still and would not be able to contibue until my tutorial the following morning. This meant that i used the rest of the afternoon to create and re jiggle my plans for the week or how I could and would catch catch up on my schedule so as i was not behind!!!
~I realise however that this is something a professional in this industry would face a lot due to the artists/bands tight schedule and therefore there is a definate need for good organisation
and time scheduling as well as flexibilty and composed mannorism.
Monday 10 May 2010
proposed plan of action for week starting 10/05/2010
This week I propose to start the week off by finishing my shirt pieces, like my cuffs and pique's! I plan that tuesday, U will make my collars up ready to go onto my jacket. I realise that due to studding my collar, I may need to do this before I put it together and then glue on the rhinestones; however, I do not want the studs to get in the way of where I am sewing; therefore it may be better to do it after I have made the collar up, whilst it is still open at the bottom before it is applied to the jacket! This is something I feel a second opinion from my tutor will help me to decide on the best option. Hopefully I will start my lining that afternoon with my tutor's guidance; due to it being a tailored garment and not having lined a full garment in a tailored way!! I plan to get my lining and facing complete by friday allowing me 3 and half days to complete it! This allows for any problems when putting it in or any larger scale problems; needing a good amount of time to deal with them. I plan to be lining my sleeves and putting them into my garments on friday afternoon and have them complete by 4pm (end of university) This allows me to discuss any problems along the way with my tutor along with my solutions and him advise me on the best solution! I Always try to come up with solutions myself to present to my tutor or research I have done to try to solve a question which he can then advise me from, as in industry this would most likely be the way I would have to tackle something I was unsure about if I was working freelance as most designers/ makers for the industry do!
I then have the weekend before Monday (hand in) to add (glue on and secure) my rhinestones and allow them time to dry before I hand in!
I feel my schedule is realistic and achievable! I will update you on how the week pans out with more regular updates than previously, as it is my last week of completion of my project!
Watch my posts!!!
I then have the weekend before Monday (hand in) to add (glue on and secure) my rhinestones and allow them time to dry before I hand in!
I feel my schedule is realistic and achievable! I will update you on how the week pans out with more regular updates than previously, as it is my last week of completion of my project!
Watch my posts!!!
reflection on week's proposed work ending 7/05/2010
So I proposed this week (being aware that my tutor was away and a temporary tutor had been arranged for the week to cover who would not necessarily know exactly what our project was about and all the ins and outs of it and reasons for decisions made etc), that I would carry out my alterations from my fitting, create my piping that would go on the jacket (out of my black fabric but the reversed side) and work on my sleeves and correcting those. I also proposed to work on my shirt pique pieces; knowing that they were now the correct size etc (from the fitting), the pleated cuffs and the bottom pleated decorational part; getting this to the desired shape and size!
My alterations, were not particularly complicated however, this time I used the procedure of transfering them from one side to the other and re-tacking the lines in place to show the new lines; for a more lasting mark of where things should be placed (e.g the armhole)! I checked with temporary tutor suzan that this was the right way to go about them and she agreed. She also suggested that for the sleeves instead of redrafting them completely; due to the sleeve head shape not changing changing but simply needing to be extended, due to the new armwhole line being moved more toward the neckline; I just needed to measure the extra amount I needed to add to the top of the sleeve head and then apply it to the sleeve head when creating my new pattern piece. The alterations and added tacking took up more time than I expected. I also, despite not fully making them up (sewing them together), wanted to have my collars cut out of my top fabric and the collar canvas ready for My tutor to instruct me on the construction of when he got back; as I need them to be very stiff; especially for the shirt collar; and had prediscussed seeing him about this when he got back, before my 2nd fitting.
I therefore prioritised my alterations; getting my sleeves cut out ready and alterations done. This meant that I did not get onto finishing my Pleated cuffs and piques. Also, I did not wish to rush to get these done as they are key decorational parts of the shirt that would have attention drawn to them; therefore I wanted my measurements for the pleats and where they sat to be as identically accurate as possible. (Like the quality of a tailor made high fashion shirt; very particular and methodical!) Therefore, I was discapointed that these were things I would have to account for in next weeks schedule and add into; however I rathered spending more time on them to gain a quality finish than rushing them.
I did however get the deocrational pleated bottom part completed and was pleased with the result of this!
Suzanne was very helpful and very keen to discuss our projects with us. What I felt was wonderful; was she offered support and her opinion on how to do things; but did not direct you or tell you it was the only way to do it and you had to do it that way! Therefore, her experience within industry did not make her seem undermining or derogatory of our skills! She liked to hear how we would go about it and would then offer her assistance or agree! This gave me belief that I was not out of my depth with this project and was very capable at making good informed decisions; as an industry professional would in their day to day practice!
One slight other task I reaslised the monday night when arriving home from my fitting was that I would need more of the copper knitted wire that would be used for the reverse applique on the sleeves; due to having completed the sample on my 2nd fitting calico sleeve! This was not an issue as I knew this seller was very quick at posting the order and it would be with me if ordered tuesday morning by thursday! However; this was another task to schedule into my weeks plans; possibly resulting in the delay on finishing the cuffs and piques! However; I am pleased I had considered this early on in the week or this may have caused a problem later on in the week if I had not; when I was scheduling for the following week's jobs and time allownaces!!!
My alterations, were not particularly complicated however, this time I used the procedure of transfering them from one side to the other and re-tacking the lines in place to show the new lines; for a more lasting mark of where things should be placed (e.g the armhole)! I checked with temporary tutor suzan that this was the right way to go about them and she agreed. She also suggested that for the sleeves instead of redrafting them completely; due to the sleeve head shape not changing changing but simply needing to be extended, due to the new armwhole line being moved more toward the neckline; I just needed to measure the extra amount I needed to add to the top of the sleeve head and then apply it to the sleeve head when creating my new pattern piece. The alterations and added tacking took up more time than I expected. I also, despite not fully making them up (sewing them together), wanted to have my collars cut out of my top fabric and the collar canvas ready for My tutor to instruct me on the construction of when he got back; as I need them to be very stiff; especially for the shirt collar; and had prediscussed seeing him about this when he got back, before my 2nd fitting.
I therefore prioritised my alterations; getting my sleeves cut out ready and alterations done. This meant that I did not get onto finishing my Pleated cuffs and piques. Also, I did not wish to rush to get these done as they are key decorational parts of the shirt that would have attention drawn to them; therefore I wanted my measurements for the pleats and where they sat to be as identically accurate as possible. (Like the quality of a tailor made high fashion shirt; very particular and methodical!) Therefore, I was discapointed that these were things I would have to account for in next weeks schedule and add into; however I rathered spending more time on them to gain a quality finish than rushing them.
I did however get the deocrational pleated bottom part completed and was pleased with the result of this!
Suzanne was very helpful and very keen to discuss our projects with us. What I felt was wonderful; was she offered support and her opinion on how to do things; but did not direct you or tell you it was the only way to do it and you had to do it that way! Therefore, her experience within industry did not make her seem undermining or derogatory of our skills! She liked to hear how we would go about it and would then offer her assistance or agree! This gave me belief that I was not out of my depth with this project and was very capable at making good informed decisions; as an industry professional would in their day to day practice!
One slight other task I reaslised the monday night when arriving home from my fitting was that I would need more of the copper knitted wire that would be used for the reverse applique on the sleeves; due to having completed the sample on my 2nd fitting calico sleeve! This was not an issue as I knew this seller was very quick at posting the order and it would be with me if ordered tuesday morning by thursday! However; this was another task to schedule into my weeks plans; possibly resulting in the delay on finishing the cuffs and piques! However; I am pleased I had considered this early on in the week or this may have caused a problem later on in the week if I had not; when I was scheduling for the following week's jobs and time allownaces!!!
Thursday 6 May 2010
2nd fitting- technical evaluation (adaptations)
So in terms of what I have to alter this week!
My shirt was a relatively good fit now, however due to lengthening it, I did not consider the hip measurement being wider! This was not a problem as I had still left a good 3cm on the seams and therefore I could take the shirt out at the hip either side the very small amount it needed. Therefore I will be letting the seam out from the pin (and very faint mark) just at the hip 2cm.
The Pique on the shirt I had decided the length and width of by assessing this whilst the shirt was on the stand. Seeing it on James and against the correct fit (not on a model stand) I was still happy with the length of this; this meant that I could use the papper pattern I had used to create this mock version! Regarding the cuffs, due to the sleeves being the right length; I can now this week, go ahead and measure and create the cuffs. I described to james that these would have the pleats in too! This is the same policy with the decorative piece at the lower stomach; due to having checked the CF measurement was correct on the shirt and closed; fitting.. I can this week create this pleated decorational piece. Seeing the shirt on james I could see and discuss with James how low he was happy to have the top opening of the shirt undone and marked this. I also marked how far up the shirt would be sewn and the small amount of buttons that would be inbetween this and the top off the shirt that would be left open.
The collar on the shirt fitted perfectly and was a better shape having increased the size of the lower point; this made it more of a bold eye catching shape!
The sleeve of the shirt needed pulling up a little to create a better fit around the head of the sleeve and has been marked in accordance. This then meant the sleeve would need lengthening by about 2cm around the head to allow for this.
The Jacket:
The CF line would have very little allowance; enough to be able to attach the facing of the jacket! This was due to the fact James had been toning up and working out and had expanded across the pectorials and rib area. This I now, do not see as an issue now, as my Jacket design does deliberately not close in my design so that the shirt can be seen. Equally, considering the fact they are performing and the reason I wished to make a shirt was due to the heat factor; hence they would probably be taking them off anyway; I do not see it being an issue the jacket not properly closing. I may however place buttons on the jacket both sides to make an ironic point that it does not close deliberately; but will add an added decorational touch!
Jacket sleeve: I needed to redraft the sleeve head from my markings on the armhole of the jacket! It also needs to be extended in lenth at the cuff a fraction to allow for seam allowance!
The Jacket Collar I was equally very pleased with both the fit and the shape. So I can this week- cut them from my top fabric ready to make the collar up with Graham's direction on how to put in the collar canvas, the following week!
Trousers:
The monday of the week previously to the fitting; I had gone back to topshop, (having done a mens trouser price check in many different stores, of the trousers that matched the sample shelly had given me of their trouser fabric, the saturday before this, founding they were the cheapest as I could get student discount! When buying these to get the nearest possible size; I used the inside leg, outside leg and waist measurements from my measurement sheet shelly had provided us with at the start of the project. The trousers surprisingly were almost the exact measurements matching James'. Therefore, when James put the trousers on; they were an exact fit and needed no alterations! Therefore I was pleased that I had spent time looking around at different shops among the differnt styles they offered and prices they were at in many different stores! I feel the trousers I sourced were the most appropriate considering my budget as well as style.
I felt this was overall a good fitting! The week ahead, I plan to get all my alterations completed (making use of temporary tutor suzan) in our tutor's replacement! I also plan to get my collar pieces and sleeves cut out from top fabric. The decorative elements of the shirt made up read to be applied.
This then allows me the final week to complete my lining, facings, collars (making them up), and decoration to the jacket and stitched onto the shirt. Then the last weekend; buttons can be sewn on and applied!
My shirt was a relatively good fit now, however due to lengthening it, I did not consider the hip measurement being wider! This was not a problem as I had still left a good 3cm on the seams and therefore I could take the shirt out at the hip either side the very small amount it needed. Therefore I will be letting the seam out from the pin (and very faint mark) just at the hip 2cm.
The Pique on the shirt I had decided the length and width of by assessing this whilst the shirt was on the stand. Seeing it on James and against the correct fit (not on a model stand) I was still happy with the length of this; this meant that I could use the papper pattern I had used to create this mock version! Regarding the cuffs, due to the sleeves being the right length; I can now this week, go ahead and measure and create the cuffs. I described to james that these would have the pleats in too! This is the same policy with the decorative piece at the lower stomach; due to having checked the CF measurement was correct on the shirt and closed; fitting.. I can this week create this pleated decorational piece. Seeing the shirt on james I could see and discuss with James how low he was happy to have the top opening of the shirt undone and marked this. I also marked how far up the shirt would be sewn and the small amount of buttons that would be inbetween this and the top off the shirt that would be left open.
The collar on the shirt fitted perfectly and was a better shape having increased the size of the lower point; this made it more of a bold eye catching shape!
The sleeve of the shirt needed pulling up a little to create a better fit around the head of the sleeve and has been marked in accordance. This then meant the sleeve would need lengthening by about 2cm around the head to allow for this.
The Jacket:
The CF line would have very little allowance; enough to be able to attach the facing of the jacket! This was due to the fact James had been toning up and working out and had expanded across the pectorials and rib area. This I now, do not see as an issue now, as my Jacket design does deliberately not close in my design so that the shirt can be seen. Equally, considering the fact they are performing and the reason I wished to make a shirt was due to the heat factor; hence they would probably be taking them off anyway; I do not see it being an issue the jacket not properly closing. I may however place buttons on the jacket both sides to make an ironic point that it does not close deliberately; but will add an added decorational touch!
Jacket sleeve: I needed to redraft the sleeve head from my markings on the armhole of the jacket! It also needs to be extended in lenth at the cuff a fraction to allow for seam allowance!
The Jacket Collar I was equally very pleased with both the fit and the shape. So I can this week- cut them from my top fabric ready to make the collar up with Graham's direction on how to put in the collar canvas, the following week!
Trousers:
The monday of the week previously to the fitting; I had gone back to topshop, (having done a mens trouser price check in many different stores, of the trousers that matched the sample shelly had given me of their trouser fabric, the saturday before this, founding they were the cheapest as I could get student discount! When buying these to get the nearest possible size; I used the inside leg, outside leg and waist measurements from my measurement sheet shelly had provided us with at the start of the project. The trousers surprisingly were almost the exact measurements matching James'. Therefore, when James put the trousers on; they were an exact fit and needed no alterations! Therefore I was pleased that I had spent time looking around at different shops among the differnt styles they offered and prices they were at in many different stores! I feel the trousers I sourced were the most appropriate considering my budget as well as style.
I felt this was overall a good fitting! The week ahead, I plan to get all my alterations completed (making use of temporary tutor suzan) in our tutor's replacement! I also plan to get my collar pieces and sleeves cut out from top fabric. The decorative elements of the shirt made up read to be applied.
This then allows me the final week to complete my lining, facings, collars (making them up), and decoration to the jacket and stitched onto the shirt. Then the last weekend; buttons can be sewn on and applied!
2nd fitting- reflective post!
Ok, so on the way about 9pm, I got a text saying that plans had changed and James could not make the fitting that would be the next day (monday 3rd) So would I be able to fit him as soon as I got there. I was aware this therefore be a late night fitting seeing as my coach didnt arrive in london until 10:20 and then I had to travel (get a train) across london to get to the flat. However, I was also aware that it was a sunday night and there would be works on the rail lines going on which may affect my route and delay it. Therefore I text back reminding James of this; to ensure he was aware that I would be a good hour longer! (Although, there was little other options at this point.. other than to do it when I got there!) When I arrived at 12, We got stright on with the fitting. Lottie volunteered to be my assistant instantly, which was a massive help and really would help to speed up the whole process! Having lottie passing pins, and as a second pair of eyes was a great help and definately did speed the process up.
Generally the fit was relatively accurate but the sleeves were a bit of an issue around the sleeve head. I pinned the sleeve in how I thought best and explained to lottie my thoughts regarding how to go about creating the correct fit. Lottie was very useful in giving a second opinion. she suggested leaving a little extra etc to what I had for a a bit of reassurance that next time James was to wear it; it would still fit! In relatinion to the fit; I found that in the 3 weeks between the two fittings, James had been working out; his chest had expanded meaning that the cf that I originally marked was inches from being able to close! I had left 5cm on the CF but this still would not be enough to close the jacket with buttons! I was very worried about this, untill lottie pointed out that on my design my jacket was not closed. When I then considered this further and fitted the shirt, I relised that the jacket would not want to be closed as this would block out the decoration of the shirt that adds the interest to the whole costume! Therefore I was reassured. However I was still a little worried as a functional jacket should still close! Lottie suggested to me if i was worried to use.... fastenings; and explained to be due to the tie that was attached to fastening it allowed extra room to fasten the jacket! It was great to hear about another option if i needed a fastening on the jacket; and therefore her knowledge was of great help!
Whilst I was marking these changes and we were discussing things; lottie noted down the alterations and any problems or things I was slightly unsure of to discuss with graham the 2nd week back (when Graham returned) and what we had done! e.g the Jacket front!
Overall the fitting went very well, and managed to get it done much quicker than the last! James was very happy and excited about the jacket sleeve decoartion which I had done on the calico in the exact same way as it will be done on my top fabric (the netting reverse applique) When I showed him the beads and told him where these were placed he was equally excited and very much approved and liked the plan of action regarding this decoration; and commented that he looked forward to seeing it finished!
Finally; the shirt; James was thrilled with this and the decorative elements; even commenting "This is immense; Can I wear it on a night out"!
I felt extremely pleased with what I had produced and now feel extremely confident about the finished looks of the jacket and shirt and the look as a whole including the sourced trousers! All garments compliment one another extremely well and are giving the look that I desired when I created this design. I feel therefore, once again pleased that I spent so long on my research as this has allowed my process to be as calm as it can be with no hickups regarding design and decorative issues so far!
Check out my following blog for the changes that I needed to make and how I planned to go about them!
Generally the fit was relatively accurate but the sleeves were a bit of an issue around the sleeve head. I pinned the sleeve in how I thought best and explained to lottie my thoughts regarding how to go about creating the correct fit. Lottie was very useful in giving a second opinion. she suggested leaving a little extra etc to what I had for a a bit of reassurance that next time James was to wear it; it would still fit! In relatinion to the fit; I found that in the 3 weeks between the two fittings, James had been working out; his chest had expanded meaning that the cf that I originally marked was inches from being able to close! I had left 5cm on the CF but this still would not be enough to close the jacket with buttons! I was very worried about this, untill lottie pointed out that on my design my jacket was not closed. When I then considered this further and fitted the shirt, I relised that the jacket would not want to be closed as this would block out the decoration of the shirt that adds the interest to the whole costume! Therefore I was reassured. However I was still a little worried as a functional jacket should still close! Lottie suggested to me if i was worried to use.... fastenings; and explained to be due to the tie that was attached to fastening it allowed extra room to fasten the jacket! It was great to hear about another option if i needed a fastening on the jacket; and therefore her knowledge was of great help!
Whilst I was marking these changes and we were discussing things; lottie noted down the alterations and any problems or things I was slightly unsure of to discuss with graham the 2nd week back (when Graham returned) and what we had done! e.g the Jacket front!
Overall the fitting went very well, and managed to get it done much quicker than the last! James was very happy and excited about the jacket sleeve decoartion which I had done on the calico in the exact same way as it will be done on my top fabric (the netting reverse applique) When I showed him the beads and told him where these were placed he was equally excited and very much approved and liked the plan of action regarding this decoration; and commented that he looked forward to seeing it finished!
Finally; the shirt; James was thrilled with this and the decorative elements; even commenting "This is immense; Can I wear it on a night out"!
I felt extremely pleased with what I had produced and now feel extremely confident about the finished looks of the jacket and shirt and the look as a whole including the sourced trousers! All garments compliment one another extremely well and are giving the look that I desired when I created this design. I feel therefore, once again pleased that I spent so long on my research as this has allowed my process to be as calm as it can be with no hickups regarding design and decorative issues so far!
Check out my following blog for the changes that I needed to make and how I planned to go about them!
Sunday 2 May 2010
progress on my project- week starting 26/04/10- 30/04/2010
On my way to my 2nd fitting! This fitting is where the garments are generally cut out from the top fabric; although pieces such as the collar and cuffs etc do not get made from top fabric until after the 2nd fitting due to the neckline or cuff of the sleeve needing to be changed! Therefore these are made out of calico; a cheap way to get the idea of what the garment will look like in full when finished but, not wasting your fabric if they need to be changed due to changes made to the lines they attach at! The decoration that can be added should be added at this point; but this does vary from designer to designer; as this is a sheduling decision. However, if the decoration is not completed on the garment due to sheduling choice or due to it being on pieces such as the collar; it is a good idea to provide a sample so as the client can get an insight of what it will look like and can begin to visualise the piece in full! Unfortunately, for my jacket and shirt most of my decoration is on areas that I can not create out of the top fabric until after my fitting! My jacket's rhinestones and studs will be placed on the collar and the cuffs and on the sleeve of the jacket is where the reverse applique will be created. However.. i have bought to my fitting my sleeves with a sample of exactly how the decoration will be... but on the top fabric sleeve after the fitting instead! Also I have bought all of the beads and studs along with my me to the fitting for James to see and be able to visualise the final outcome better! For my shirt, I have done a sample of the pique style piece I want to add to it; but have done this out of the mock fabric that I used for my toile! Unfortunately I have not been able to create the other pleated decorational piece at the bottom of the shirt, due to having to know the fit of the shirt to then know the scale to be able to make it! However I have with me a picture of the shirt and exactly how I wish it to look and will be creating it to look! This will definately give James an idea of how it will look still!
So... the week prior to today... Has been manic! Sadly due to much of my decoration needing to be completed after my fitting, I have not been able to progress as far as other members of the group regarding this! However, I am lucky that this is the case in a sense as my beads only arrived yesterday, due to being held up in customs (one problem I need to consider next time I am ordering internationally, so I would not have been able to necessarily complete it if I was able to in time for this fitting anyway! Despite not having to worry about my beads arriving necessarily due to not needing them on my garment I still wanted them to arrive in time so that I was able to show James! Therefore, all week this was still a worry; and an even bigger worry that my rhinestones and decrational elements are my biggest expenditure of my budget (coming to £.... in total) and they could potentially not arrive due to not having used the website before and in the worst case.. they may not have been posted even and due to my budget; I could not afford the $30 postage on top of the price I was paying that provided insurance! However.. the rhinestones did turn up but not until the saturday! (10 days from my order date.) This did mean though that I am able to take them with me!
So anyway.. despite this I have been manically constructing my garments, which has not proven too difficult since they have been redrafted and I know I have spent a good amount of time the 1st week and the early part of this past week redrafting the sleeves and conducting my alterations; double checking my measurements in the process. Still, I feel a little mervous about my fitting and the jacket or shirt not fitting James (being too small now!) This was another element which is just relating to trusting my abilities and relating to my confidence! This is something that I control when conducting a fitting to be professional but would help myself if I prior to my fitting I managed to control it; so as I was sewing in a more calm conducted way!
I am due to get in to london at 10.20 and conduct my fitting tomorrow (monday in the morning) So I will write up how things went mid week!
So... the week prior to today... Has been manic! Sadly due to much of my decoration needing to be completed after my fitting, I have not been able to progress as far as other members of the group regarding this! However, I am lucky that this is the case in a sense as my beads only arrived yesterday, due to being held up in customs (one problem I need to consider next time I am ordering internationally, so I would not have been able to necessarily complete it if I was able to in time for this fitting anyway! Despite not having to worry about my beads arriving necessarily due to not needing them on my garment I still wanted them to arrive in time so that I was able to show James! Therefore, all week this was still a worry; and an even bigger worry that my rhinestones and decrational elements are my biggest expenditure of my budget (coming to £.... in total) and they could potentially not arrive due to not having used the website before and in the worst case.. they may not have been posted even and due to my budget; I could not afford the $30 postage on top of the price I was paying that provided insurance! However.. the rhinestones did turn up but not until the saturday! (10 days from my order date.) This did mean though that I am able to take them with me!
So anyway.. despite this I have been manically constructing my garments, which has not proven too difficult since they have been redrafted and I know I have spent a good amount of time the 1st week and the early part of this past week redrafting the sleeves and conducting my alterations; double checking my measurements in the process. Still, I feel a little mervous about my fitting and the jacket or shirt not fitting James (being too small now!) This was another element which is just relating to trusting my abilities and relating to my confidence! This is something that I control when conducting a fitting to be professional but would help myself if I prior to my fitting I managed to control it; so as I was sewing in a more calm conducted way!
I am due to get in to london at 10.20 and conduct my fitting tomorrow (monday in the morning) So I will write up how things went mid week!
Tuesday 27 April 2010
key considerations the week of monday 12th april- friday 16th!
This week was pretty manic as I knew I had to order my rhinestone crystals for the jacket collar and added fabric that I plan to use for the reverse applique to go underneath my top fabric and be stitched around asap so as they would arrive in time to be able to apply to james' costume before the fitting! However, Price was something I needed to consider; I knew these would not be cheap; but i knew buying them ion bulk as I wished to do would make it much cheaper and generally buying internationally; the rhinestones would be cheaper to! (However I would have to consider the postage and packaging price on top of the cost of the decorative materials/ components too!) Therefore I spent a lot of time this week scanning the internet for the best price for what I wanted. The preknitted knitted thin wire that I would be using for the reverse applique I found very easily and was very reasonably priced with free shipping included too! The website offered a variety of colours; however I was satisfied and sure the colour i had picked could not change that much from the colour I saw it as on screen! I therefore checked the refund policy; which was not so cost considerate; however I did not feel worried that the wire would be wrong!
However, When ordering the beads, I came across many different types that I had not seen before and would be very appropriate but due to me combining 2 different size of bead and colour for the collar, I needed to consider this when ordering them. I needed to make sure that the style would compliment one another and the colours would! This made it a very long and hard decision as I could not see them to compare them visually as they were, instead seeing them flat and putting the square of colour palette next to one another; i had to come to a decision! This worried me a little bit as the rhinestones would be costing more than the fabric and as this seller was an international seller, as was the seller of the other option of rhinestone i liked; it would be a reasonable amount of time for them to be devivered anyway and i did not feel i would have time to send them back if they didnt go; and reorder the others; plus this would be added, careless waste of my budget!
I decided to email the two sellers and check the swarovski rhinestones listed as the swarvski size and colour were actually the size and shape and colour which they are on the official swarovski cystal websight page! This was useful for me to do, as this i had a chart for at hand from having bought these crystals already! This would provide me with more confidence with my decision!
Having recieved confirmation from the first seller; which was the seller of one of the swarovski cystal packs I definately was set on buying... I therefore decided that as she had emailed me back so quickly and verified that they were the same as the swarovski crystal rhinestone chart.. i decided it would be best to order the two packs of crystals together! This helped me to confirm my decision! I ordered these crystals after much deliberation on the thursday morning, i knew I would have to allow and week at least as were from an website from outside of europe! I hoped I had not left it too late for these to arrive and apply to James' jacket for the 2nd fitting! I was however lucky, as where I had designed for these to go; on the collar and the cuff, I would not necessarily have to apply these before I had made up my jacket! Equally, I would not apply the ones on the cuff, until I have double checked at the 2nd fitting on the 3rd May the length of the sleeve! Added to this, I could not do the ones on the cuff of the jacket as Graham (our tutor) had advised in our previous tutorial that following redrafting our sleeve pattern to accomodate the new changes to the jacket from fitting 1, we should cut the sleeves again from calico and use the calico sleeves for the 2nd fitting. Then after the 2nd fitting and checking our sleeve pattern redrafted was ok and fitted; we would cut them out from top fabric then at this point!
The rest of this week was spent redrafting my patterns and adapting them as I mentiond in my previous post; tutorial with graham!
However, When ordering the beads, I came across many different types that I had not seen before and would be very appropriate but due to me combining 2 different size of bead and colour for the collar, I needed to consider this when ordering them. I needed to make sure that the style would compliment one another and the colours would! This made it a very long and hard decision as I could not see them to compare them visually as they were, instead seeing them flat and putting the square of colour palette next to one another; i had to come to a decision! This worried me a little bit as the rhinestones would be costing more than the fabric and as this seller was an international seller, as was the seller of the other option of rhinestone i liked; it would be a reasonable amount of time for them to be devivered anyway and i did not feel i would have time to send them back if they didnt go; and reorder the others; plus this would be added, careless waste of my budget!
I decided to email the two sellers and check the swarovski rhinestones listed as the swarvski size and colour were actually the size and shape and colour which they are on the official swarovski cystal websight page! This was useful for me to do, as this i had a chart for at hand from having bought these crystals already! This would provide me with more confidence with my decision!
Having recieved confirmation from the first seller; which was the seller of one of the swarovski cystal packs I definately was set on buying... I therefore decided that as she had emailed me back so quickly and verified that they were the same as the swarovski crystal rhinestone chart.. i decided it would be best to order the two packs of crystals together! This helped me to confirm my decision! I ordered these crystals after much deliberation on the thursday morning, i knew I would have to allow and week at least as were from an website from outside of europe! I hoped I had not left it too late for these to arrive and apply to James' jacket for the 2nd fitting! I was however lucky, as where I had designed for these to go; on the collar and the cuff, I would not necessarily have to apply these before I had made up my jacket! Equally, I would not apply the ones on the cuff, until I have double checked at the 2nd fitting on the 3rd May the length of the sleeve! Added to this, I could not do the ones on the cuff of the jacket as Graham (our tutor) had advised in our previous tutorial that following redrafting our sleeve pattern to accomodate the new changes to the jacket from fitting 1, we should cut the sleeves again from calico and use the calico sleeves for the 2nd fitting. Then after the 2nd fitting and checking our sleeve pattern redrafted was ok and fitted; we would cut them out from top fabric then at this point!
The rest of this week was spent redrafting my patterns and adapting them as I mentiond in my previous post; tutorial with graham!
turorial with graham; reflective post!
I feel my tutor's tutorial very useful, as I was unsure how to go about my adaptations. What is interesting from completing this project is I am gradually throughout conducting the whole process from research to design to initial toile construction, apaptation to fitting, top fabric construction to adaptation and refitting; finding out the areas I am confident in my skills and the areas i still doubt and need more assiatnce with. This is extremely useful as will allow me to work on these skills perhaps hopefully over my summer in perparation for level 6 of the course; a much more independent working year! Equally by establishing what I am less confident in I can create question and try to research and find the answers to be able to gain more confidence that I know how to go about the issue.
So far in the project I have felt reasonably comfortable with how to go about the above elements of this project in a correct, professional manner. Although, the fittings I have felt more comfortable with a second opinion certifying my actions and decisions, I have felt a real sense of achievement and confidence in my technical abiulity in this area and professional judgements about how to take in the garments and where is appropriate! However, one area I did not feel so confident in, was how to go about translating the adaptations I had been so confident with to make new pattern pieces to ensure the fit of my top fabric toile, when constructed. I really felt Graham's explanation of taking one side appart once it has been fully marked and cutting the pieces to the correct size (cutting off the Seam Allowances) and using the fabric pieces as pattern pieces to place ontot he top fabric and then adding the seam allowances (as you would with paper patterns) was a clear, accurate and easy way to translate the changes! This Graham (tutor) explained can be used for many garments, and ensures a good amount of accuracy especially for tailors! This is a technique I will definately remember and use for my adaptations in the future!
I realise however, there are other methods of doing this still!
For the skirt, this could be recreated once the jacket bottom had been adapted to the correct fit. We would then simply measure the jacket bottom to create the top of the skirt and measure the jacket length from the back piece (which did still have the skirt attached) from the dropped waist to match the front skirt length. The cf line of the skirt is a design line and therefore was our decision how curved we wished to make this.
Graham's sleeve tutorial was equally very useful and presented me with another way of completing a sleeve pattern and gaianing a more accurate fitting due to all the measurements fully considered and correctly implemented! Although the process was not that different to how I completed my sleeve originally; although measuring the over arm sleeve head line and the under edge sleeve head line to correctly fit and knowing the ease to add in; is very useful to know for my future construction practice.
Graham in this session explained to us what he would have completed and finished for the final fitting and what fabric to do it from etc.
He suggested we still completed out redrafted sleeves from calico; to ensure the correct fit before cutting them out and wasting top fabric.
He advised we either tacked these into our jackets (created out of top fabric and finished correctly including the implentation of the hair canvases, shoulder canvas and breast felt) or used a very long stitch on the sewing machine. We were instructed, even during our fittings, to not cut down the seam allowances until we were completing our adaptations and he had seen how our fittings went and the adaptations that were needed. (often tailors do not cut the seams down until just before the lining is put in anyway!)
He advised any decoration that was not around the seam lines or style lines such as the CF and cuffs, and collar, was completed for the fitting! If this could not be done due to the decoration being around these areas; complete a sample to show our band member; allowing them to gain a visualisation of how it would look when completed. This was advised by him to be done, as the distance limited them seeing the progress of the construction as regularly as it would be seen perhaps in industry if a designer was making for a client. Equally bring along to the fitting any buttons or rhinestones etc to show and place thwem where they would be going. By showing the clients these decorational features; this allows them to speak out and discuss changes or factors they did not like, before it had been fully completed and could not be changed. This equally allowed for further positive development of our jackets and a prime opportunity for communication with our band members!
Finally he reminded us to plan out our time after the fitting; regarding what we anticipated to have to still complete in the following 2 weeks so as we did not overlook any elements!
Overall; Graham's tutorial made me feel much more confident about how to complete the weeks schedule regarding the changes and making up my jacket from top fabric. It overly made me feel more confident about the second fitting too; as Graham pointed out that due to the way we were completing the adaptations; there should be few the second time; perhaps only with the sleeves!
This gave me confidence that after the 2nd fitting, I would not feel there was too much to complete in time for deadline 2 weeks after we got back from the fitting!
So far in the project I have felt reasonably comfortable with how to go about the above elements of this project in a correct, professional manner. Although, the fittings I have felt more comfortable with a second opinion certifying my actions and decisions, I have felt a real sense of achievement and confidence in my technical abiulity in this area and professional judgements about how to take in the garments and where is appropriate! However, one area I did not feel so confident in, was how to go about translating the adaptations I had been so confident with to make new pattern pieces to ensure the fit of my top fabric toile, when constructed. I really felt Graham's explanation of taking one side appart once it has been fully marked and cutting the pieces to the correct size (cutting off the Seam Allowances) and using the fabric pieces as pattern pieces to place ontot he top fabric and then adding the seam allowances (as you would with paper patterns) was a clear, accurate and easy way to translate the changes! This Graham (tutor) explained can be used for many garments, and ensures a good amount of accuracy especially for tailors! This is a technique I will definately remember and use for my adaptations in the future!
I realise however, there are other methods of doing this still!
For the skirt, this could be recreated once the jacket bottom had been adapted to the correct fit. We would then simply measure the jacket bottom to create the top of the skirt and measure the jacket length from the back piece (which did still have the skirt attached) from the dropped waist to match the front skirt length. The cf line of the skirt is a design line and therefore was our decision how curved we wished to make this.
Graham's sleeve tutorial was equally very useful and presented me with another way of completing a sleeve pattern and gaianing a more accurate fitting due to all the measurements fully considered and correctly implemented! Although the process was not that different to how I completed my sleeve originally; although measuring the over arm sleeve head line and the under edge sleeve head line to correctly fit and knowing the ease to add in; is very useful to know for my future construction practice.
Graham in this session explained to us what he would have completed and finished for the final fitting and what fabric to do it from etc.
He suggested we still completed out redrafted sleeves from calico; to ensure the correct fit before cutting them out and wasting top fabric.
He advised we either tacked these into our jackets (created out of top fabric and finished correctly including the implentation of the hair canvases, shoulder canvas and breast felt) or used a very long stitch on the sewing machine. We were instructed, even during our fittings, to not cut down the seam allowances until we were completing our adaptations and he had seen how our fittings went and the adaptations that were needed. (often tailors do not cut the seams down until just before the lining is put in anyway!)
He advised any decoration that was not around the seam lines or style lines such as the CF and cuffs, and collar, was completed for the fitting! If this could not be done due to the decoration being around these areas; complete a sample to show our band member; allowing them to gain a visualisation of how it would look when completed. This was advised by him to be done, as the distance limited them seeing the progress of the construction as regularly as it would be seen perhaps in industry if a designer was making for a client. Equally bring along to the fitting any buttons or rhinestones etc to show and place thwem where they would be going. By showing the clients these decorational features; this allows them to speak out and discuss changes or factors they did not like, before it had been fully completed and could not be changed. This equally allowed for further positive development of our jackets and a prime opportunity for communication with our band members!
Finally he reminded us to plan out our time after the fitting; regarding what we anticipated to have to still complete in the following 2 weeks so as we did not overlook any elements!
Overall; Graham's tutorial made me feel much more confident about how to complete the weeks schedule regarding the changes and making up my jacket from top fabric. It overly made me feel more confident about the second fitting too; as Graham pointed out that due to the way we were completing the adaptations; there should be few the second time; perhaps only with the sleeves!
This gave me confidence that after the 2nd fitting, I would not feel there was too much to complete in time for deadline 2 weeks after we got back from the fitting!
Wednesday 21 April 2010
tutorial with graham; technical elements
We met as a group with our tutor, when we were back from easter on the 14/04/2010. As our tutor had not seen out coats, he asked us if we could put them all on the manequins ready for him to look at! Through doing this he was able to study the shapes of them and what alterations we had planned through our pinning and chalked lines on our toiles! He went through each of ours one by one, but the things that he commented on were handy for all of the group to listen to as some of it could be applied to all of our coats! He liked the way that the coats were all slightly different and complimented us for the stage we had got to; produced a first toile of our coats and trousers.. or for me.. shirt! (Although... this tutorial he was only looking at our coats!)
We showed him the photos from the fittings for each of our coats. For my coat, I agreed that pattern was made with a little bit too much allowance; however my tutor commented; it is always better for a toile to be too big than too small! He was concerned in one of the photos that the back side seam was not vertically running down to the bottom as the others did and instead was running a little diagionallyl however, from looking at my toile, he realised this was not the case and I had ensured it ran paralell vertical to the others!!
He advised that to add interest and to ensure the shape was fully historical, I inserted an opening at the back; the diagram attached shows what this is! This was not hard to do, it just meant adding a step onto the back seam of my jacket pattern! He also suggested that I moved the side- back seam closer toward the centre back to lessen the amount of fabric at the waist between the CB seam and the side back seam. This does not mean however taking any actual fabric out of the shape, as this would alter the fit; but simply moving the seam line. I did this by drawing it onto my toile where it should sit; closer to the centre back seam!
Graham then showed us how to deconstruct our toiles to be able to transfer the alterations into our pattern blocks and then create new pattern pieces to use for cutting out our top fabric, or to be able to the toile disassembled pieces to cut out the top fabric from!#
He noted; start by cutting down the centre back and discarding the side of the toile that you have not done your alterations on! #
Next we disassembled the seams of the jacket once you have ensure that they have been marked on both sewing sides. For me.. this applied to all the pother seam except my side back seam; instead of cutting down the seamline which i had taken it in at, I needed to now, cut down the new line i had marked; this was now my new side back seam line despite the pins in the old side back seam taking it in!
after this, we ironed our jacket pieces flat, so as when cutting down the altered lines, we had the most accurate shape possible! Before cutting down your marked lines, ensure they are all creating smooth curved lines; if not.. ensure they do... then cut along them (the small excess can binned) Note: We now had to remember that the new pieces created from our alterations in this session had no seam allowance now, and therefore when placing them onto our top fabric; to remember to add the correct seam allowances!
Graham (out tutor) also told us to, before pinning our pieces to our fabric, and adding on our seam allowances to consider the fact that for our fittings we only used calico fabric; which is very very thin in comparison to our jacket fabrics! (even though mine was thin; due to consideration of heat, it was no where near this fineness of the calico!) Therefore he advised when we were drawing around the our new fabric pattern pieces onto the top fabric, we added a 1/4 cm allowance on the backseam and side seam; (he said it was not necessary to add this to the side back seam too, as we didnt want to make it too big again and have to re fit it again!)
Graham noted that the 2nd fitting should be minor alterations (amount taken in if any) and very little to the fit should need doing; adding this allowance on should not alter the fit, but should allow for the extra thickness of the jacket fabric and hair canvas, breast felt, and shoulder caanvas that would be added into it to support it!
We finished by instructing us all to remember to measure down the side back and side seams and check the measurements were still the same; meaning that they would go successfully back together again! If not.. he advised we draw the curves to be slightly more or slightly less convex/concave to correct this as they should have only altered by a fraction! cut these pieces once again out of calico or from paper to accomodate the changes; and use these new pieces to pin onto you top fabric and cutout from!
Graham then in the afternoon went on to do a sleeve tutorial. He gave us a handout for this and went through it with us; answering and clarifying any questions we had!
See tutorial reflection for my thoughts and smaller discussions we had regarding the next fitting!
We showed him the photos from the fittings for each of our coats. For my coat, I agreed that pattern was made with a little bit too much allowance; however my tutor commented; it is always better for a toile to be too big than too small! He was concerned in one of the photos that the back side seam was not vertically running down to the bottom as the others did and instead was running a little diagionallyl however, from looking at my toile, he realised this was not the case and I had ensured it ran paralell vertical to the others!!
He advised that to add interest and to ensure the shape was fully historical, I inserted an opening at the back; the diagram attached shows what this is! This was not hard to do, it just meant adding a step onto the back seam of my jacket pattern! He also suggested that I moved the side- back seam closer toward the centre back to lessen the amount of fabric at the waist between the CB seam and the side back seam. This does not mean however taking any actual fabric out of the shape, as this would alter the fit; but simply moving the seam line. I did this by drawing it onto my toile where it should sit; closer to the centre back seam!
Graham then showed us how to deconstruct our toiles to be able to transfer the alterations into our pattern blocks and then create new pattern pieces to use for cutting out our top fabric, or to be able to the toile disassembled pieces to cut out the top fabric from!#
He noted; start by cutting down the centre back and discarding the side of the toile that you have not done your alterations on! #
Next we disassembled the seams of the jacket once you have ensure that they have been marked on both sewing sides. For me.. this applied to all the pother seam except my side back seam; instead of cutting down the seamline which i had taken it in at, I needed to now, cut down the new line i had marked; this was now my new side back seam line despite the pins in the old side back seam taking it in!
after this, we ironed our jacket pieces flat, so as when cutting down the altered lines, we had the most accurate shape possible! Before cutting down your marked lines, ensure they are all creating smooth curved lines; if not.. ensure they do... then cut along them (the small excess can binned) Note: We now had to remember that the new pieces created from our alterations in this session had no seam allowance now, and therefore when placing them onto our top fabric; to remember to add the correct seam allowances!
Graham (out tutor) also told us to, before pinning our pieces to our fabric, and adding on our seam allowances to consider the fact that for our fittings we only used calico fabric; which is very very thin in comparison to our jacket fabrics! (even though mine was thin; due to consideration of heat, it was no where near this fineness of the calico!) Therefore he advised when we were drawing around the our new fabric pattern pieces onto the top fabric, we added a 1/4 cm allowance on the backseam and side seam; (he said it was not necessary to add this to the side back seam too, as we didnt want to make it too big again and have to re fit it again!)
Graham noted that the 2nd fitting should be minor alterations (amount taken in if any) and very little to the fit should need doing; adding this allowance on should not alter the fit, but should allow for the extra thickness of the jacket fabric and hair canvas, breast felt, and shoulder caanvas that would be added into it to support it!
We finished by instructing us all to remember to measure down the side back and side seams and check the measurements were still the same; meaning that they would go successfully back together again! If not.. he advised we draw the curves to be slightly more or slightly less convex/concave to correct this as they should have only altered by a fraction! cut these pieces once again out of calico or from paper to accomodate the changes; and use these new pieces to pin onto you top fabric and cutout from!
Graham then in the afternoon went on to do a sleeve tutorial. He gave us a handout for this and went through it with us; answering and clarifying any questions we had!
See tutorial reflection for my thoughts and smaller discussions we had regarding the next fitting!
Tuesday 20 April 2010
reflection on the fitting! 6/04/2010
The fitting, we had organised with the band and had been decided by them and agreed by us that the best place to have it, regarding everyone being able to get there etc, was in london at one of the band member's flats! This was essentually not ideal, as it meant we would be completely on our own; with only one another to fall back on if there were any problems with the coats! Equally, due to it being in London, this still meant travelling to get there. Unfortunately for me.. trains were far from running smoothly that evening, so it did mean I was a little late.. but there band were very relaxed and were fully understanding!
As soon as i arrived I began with James' fitting. The band members were all excited to be seeing the initail stages of their costumes and hear about our ideas and plans for them!
James' coat did need relative amounts of fitting especially at the side seam and side-back seam! The armholes, I spent quite a long time on assessing the correct positioning as this would be a key element effecting their level of performance and comfort wearing the coat!
James was very patient and easy to work with and followed my requests happily; where i asked him to bend his arm or turn around etc!
I showed James the fabrics; which he very much complimented and was excited about!
The adaptations to my coat were:
taking in the side seam,
side back seam,
moving back slightly and taking out fabric from the shoulder seam,
moving up the armhole to provide more movement and space around the shoulder for flexibility of movement.
The length,the lapel shape, collar shape, fullness of the skirt were all elements I checked with James he was happy with despite me feeling happy with how they looked; James confirmed he was happy and liked it as it was in relation to those areas so I did not adapt them!
The sleeve I made thinner (less baggy) and more fitted which I knew would consequently affect the sleeve head and underarm and would therefore need redrafting and checking against the new armhole position!
The fitting lasted approximately 3 hours, however this did include dressing time for both the shirt and the jacket, photos, refreshments, and no assistant passing pins or taking ntoes etc!
The fitting I felt went extreamly well and was a real eye opening experience as I discovered that I was not fased by a tutor not being there and directing me in what I should be doing and where I should be taking it in in order for it to fit correctly; as i found I had enough knowledge from previous fittings over the 2 years of the course to assess and decide this myself!
I remained calm and completed the fitting in a professional mannor as I would be doing in industry! However, I felt that, due to us all fitting our own at the same time, (to avoid the band members waiting around and it taking longer than it needed to) we did not have assistants which did lengthen the amount of time the fitting took. This made me aware of how useful and helpful it is to have an assistant to fill in passing pins, taking pictures, taking notes as this definately does help reduce the amount of time; shortening the process!
I was conscious to take many pictures, so that if there was any problem once I was back at uni again, my tutor could see the pictures which would hopefully help to solve any problem or understand it more and what I had done at the fitting and why!! Pictures show a relative amount; but I ensured I took notes too, to back up my photos and ensure I understood my photos!
As a group we worked very well and supported each other where we needed. One of the my group members I asked to double check my placing of the sleeve, as I felt two sets of eyes and sets of knowledge put together should mean fewer problems or faults! Also, I did this for re-assurance that my understandings were correct in placing the sleeve and my adaptations and I had not forgotten any methods, alteration rules or elements regarding this that could cause a problem at a later stage!! As in a sense, a problem for one member of the group is a problem for all.. as despite being assessed separately we are making for a band; a collective group and doing an end photoshoot so it is important that we are all there supporting each other for these reasons and for a positive working relationship!
As soon as i arrived I began with James' fitting. The band members were all excited to be seeing the initail stages of their costumes and hear about our ideas and plans for them!
James' coat did need relative amounts of fitting especially at the side seam and side-back seam! The armholes, I spent quite a long time on assessing the correct positioning as this would be a key element effecting their level of performance and comfort wearing the coat!
James was very patient and easy to work with and followed my requests happily; where i asked him to bend his arm or turn around etc!
I showed James the fabrics; which he very much complimented and was excited about!
The adaptations to my coat were:
taking in the side seam,
side back seam,
moving back slightly and taking out fabric from the shoulder seam,
moving up the armhole to provide more movement and space around the shoulder for flexibility of movement.
The length,the lapel shape, collar shape, fullness of the skirt were all elements I checked with James he was happy with despite me feeling happy with how they looked; James confirmed he was happy and liked it as it was in relation to those areas so I did not adapt them!
The sleeve I made thinner (less baggy) and more fitted which I knew would consequently affect the sleeve head and underarm and would therefore need redrafting and checking against the new armhole position!
The fitting lasted approximately 3 hours, however this did include dressing time for both the shirt and the jacket, photos, refreshments, and no assistant passing pins or taking ntoes etc!
The fitting I felt went extreamly well and was a real eye opening experience as I discovered that I was not fased by a tutor not being there and directing me in what I should be doing and where I should be taking it in in order for it to fit correctly; as i found I had enough knowledge from previous fittings over the 2 years of the course to assess and decide this myself!
I remained calm and completed the fitting in a professional mannor as I would be doing in industry! However, I felt that, due to us all fitting our own at the same time, (to avoid the band members waiting around and it taking longer than it needed to) we did not have assistants which did lengthen the amount of time the fitting took. This made me aware of how useful and helpful it is to have an assistant to fill in passing pins, taking pictures, taking notes as this definately does help reduce the amount of time; shortening the process!
I was conscious to take many pictures, so that if there was any problem once I was back at uni again, my tutor could see the pictures which would hopefully help to solve any problem or understand it more and what I had done at the fitting and why!! Pictures show a relative amount; but I ensured I took notes too, to back up my photos and ensure I understood my photos!
As a group we worked very well and supported each other where we needed. One of the my group members I asked to double check my placing of the sleeve, as I felt two sets of eyes and sets of knowledge put together should mean fewer problems or faults! Also, I did this for re-assurance that my understandings were correct in placing the sleeve and my adaptations and I had not forgotten any methods, alteration rules or elements regarding this that could cause a problem at a later stage!! As in a sense, a problem for one member of the group is a problem for all.. as despite being assessed separately we are making for a band; a collective group and doing an end photoshoot so it is important that we are all there supporting each other for these reasons and for a positive working relationship!
reflection on the making of my toile!
Due to drafting my own pattern, the books did not have making up intructions as such, as it comes back to the point the tutor made regarding the years of making experience tailors had in these historic periods and therefore knowledge to accompany this!
However.. through reading about how this century was a turning point of the tailoring industry through developing new styles and shapes of menswear, and different elements of the clothing in focus, I was able to work out how and where my toile pieces should be placed together. Equally.. by studying many different pictures, patterns and real garments as the tailors would have in period centuries, I was able to assess if the shape that I created looked right and would follow the silhouette of the body correctly. This did not particularly matter at this stage as long as it looked like the pattern; a dress coat, as it would be fitted correctly at the fitting and alterations would then be done!
We made our toiles in calico first to ensure the measurements taken were correct as only one group memeber has taken them all and it is simple to acidently take a wrong measurement, or write it against the wrong box etc! Calico is an extreamly cheap fabric and therefore was not taking money away from our budget by any means!
I successfully completed my jacket in time for my fitting and my shirt. I decided to leave the sleeves off of them both as 9 times out of 10 then sleeves are taken out anyway and replaced back in once the armhole is correct! Therefore I would pin these in once I had done so!
I created my collars, and had remembered from our leture in tailoring and from our fitting before that for a first fitting these are not sewn onto the garment often and are simply taken as separates and then pinned on to gain an insight of the lok once the neckline has been assessed!
I also decided that I would form the pleats on a stand after the first fitting once I knew the fit of the shirt, as the pleats are simply running down the centre front anyway!
I was therefore very pleased that my tight dealine, that I had very closely stuck to generally, had paid off and therefore at the fitting I could gain an insight into what James' coat shape would look like and how it would fit! Although, interestingly, I did still feel worried regarding choices I still had to make on decorational elements and how these would look as I could not visualise this; but that is an element of a second draft so therefore was not an issue and something I would just have to make decisions on and adapt if necessary! However I do not see this being a problem, as I did for this reason a large amount of research and consideration before creating my designs so as I would not be faced with a big problem of the decoration not fitting to the style of the jacket and working together. The only way I foresee, if I had of had any more time I could have reduced this worry was if I had of created a sample of my decoration and pinned in in place onto the calico toile in the place where it would be applied; however even then, it does not show particularly the same effect it will have on your top fabric and could still turn out to be completely different at the 2nd fitting (when out of top fabric and decorated) to how you imagined!
However.. through reading about how this century was a turning point of the tailoring industry through developing new styles and shapes of menswear, and different elements of the clothing in focus, I was able to work out how and where my toile pieces should be placed together. Equally.. by studying many different pictures, patterns and real garments as the tailors would have in period centuries, I was able to assess if the shape that I created looked right and would follow the silhouette of the body correctly. This did not particularly matter at this stage as long as it looked like the pattern; a dress coat, as it would be fitted correctly at the fitting and alterations would then be done!
We made our toiles in calico first to ensure the measurements taken were correct as only one group memeber has taken them all and it is simple to acidently take a wrong measurement, or write it against the wrong box etc! Calico is an extreamly cheap fabric and therefore was not taking money away from our budget by any means!
I successfully completed my jacket in time for my fitting and my shirt. I decided to leave the sleeves off of them both as 9 times out of 10 then sleeves are taken out anyway and replaced back in once the armhole is correct! Therefore I would pin these in once I had done so!
I created my collars, and had remembered from our leture in tailoring and from our fitting before that for a first fitting these are not sewn onto the garment often and are simply taken as separates and then pinned on to gain an insight of the lok once the neckline has been assessed!
I also decided that I would form the pleats on a stand after the first fitting once I knew the fit of the shirt, as the pleats are simply running down the centre front anyway!
I was therefore very pleased that my tight dealine, that I had very closely stuck to generally, had paid off and therefore at the fitting I could gain an insight into what James' coat shape would look like and how it would fit! Although, interestingly, I did still feel worried regarding choices I still had to make on decorational elements and how these would look as I could not visualise this; but that is an element of a second draft so therefore was not an issue and something I would just have to make decisions on and adapt if necessary! However I do not see this being a problem, as I did for this reason a large amount of research and consideration before creating my designs so as I would not be faced with a big problem of the decoration not fitting to the style of the jacket and working together. The only way I foresee, if I had of had any more time I could have reduced this worry was if I had of created a sample of my decoration and pinned in in place onto the calico toile in the place where it would be applied; however even then, it does not show particularly the same effect it will have on your top fabric and could still turn out to be completely different at the 2nd fitting (when out of top fabric and decorated) to how you imagined!
Sunday 18 April 2010
reflection on my individual fabric shopping trip in shepherds Bush, London!
Ok.. so on the first Saturday of arriving home, I went to shepherds bush to source and hopefully buy my fabric! Due to shopping at shepherds bush for my 1st year end of year make project; I knew there was a whole highstreet of shops with a very large variety of choice! This; I think was partly also why I didnt want to purchse the fabrics I had seen at Hansons fabric store in Dorset, when we had gone as a group; as I knew I would be able to get very similar if not the same even (if I took my swatches along) for a much cheaper price. Also the joy of these types of very small competitive shops as opposed to somewhere like 'Hansons' (more of a warehouse store) is you can to some extent haggle to get a price that you are more comfortable with (as many of the shop keepers are very aware of their 'on the doorstep' competition which may well also stock that fabric and offer a better deal!)
This trip was very worthwhile also as I could look to see if there was any more individual components or beads/ decorational elements that inspired a decorational sample idea or that I would not be able to find at a later date when sourcing these and therefore would not be able to buy now! This was not actually the case.. however going to the fabric shops there again.. bought right back the sheer variety of choice but not sacrificing quality!
The shop assistants were very nice and are happy to help! Through explaining what the material I had selected would be used for (James' dress coat) The shop keeper was able reassure me that the weight of the fabric would be good for a jacket; and gave me information on the suitability regarding washing, dry cleaning, drying, stain removal, absorbancy! The shop keeper was extremely happy to help and through eplaining I was a student and my project he was willing to support me by discounting the fabric slightly (knocking off £5 from the total bill) as it was a university project!
Despite travelling costs which, (due to good planning; going on a saturday with weekend fares on oyster being very cheap) came to £10 return, my shirt and jacket fabric came to £25 in total! Therefore, even if I added the £10 travelling costs to this; £35 for all of my fabric is extremely cheap! Having set the budget with the other group members at £100; this would mean I have enough money definately for the decorational elements I was hoping to purchase! (Which I had worked out the price of before buying my fabric so that I knew the price I was aiming for with my fabric!)
The trip only took from mid morning until early afternoon which meant that I still had the rest of the afternoon to get on, so did not lose time and could finish off my pattern drafting that I was set back on slightly!
This trip was very worthwhile also as I could look to see if there was any more individual components or beads/ decorational elements that inspired a decorational sample idea or that I would not be able to find at a later date when sourcing these and therefore would not be able to buy now! This was not actually the case.. however going to the fabric shops there again.. bought right back the sheer variety of choice but not sacrificing quality!
The shop assistants were very nice and are happy to help! Through explaining what the material I had selected would be used for (James' dress coat) The shop keeper was able reassure me that the weight of the fabric would be good for a jacket; and gave me information on the suitability regarding washing, dry cleaning, drying, stain removal, absorbancy! The shop keeper was extremely happy to help and through eplaining I was a student and my project he was willing to support me by discounting the fabric slightly (knocking off £5 from the total bill) as it was a university project!
Despite travelling costs which, (due to good planning; going on a saturday with weekend fares on oyster being very cheap) came to £10 return, my shirt and jacket fabric came to £25 in total! Therefore, even if I added the £10 travelling costs to this; £35 for all of my fabric is extremely cheap! Having set the budget with the other group members at £100; this would mean I have enough money definately for the decorational elements I was hoping to purchase! (Which I had worked out the price of before buying my fabric so that I knew the price I was aiming for with my fabric!)
The trip only took from mid morning until early afternoon which meant that I still had the rest of the afternoon to get on, so did not lose time and could finish off my pattern drafting that I was set back on slightly!
development and reflection of pattern drafting!
Having recieved James' decided design and comments that he liked it all as it was and did not have any objections to the fabrics or components (including decorational components such as the swarovski rhinestones I was considering), I decided to go ahead with drafting the basic pattern for the coat and shirt! From the historical reference material I collected earlier in the project, I established that it would be best to start off drafting a dress coat pattern and then adapting it, as this would be the closet shape to my design and would generally be style lines such as the centre front and lapel that I needed to adapt anyway. Therefore, this would not change the technical elements that required James set measurements that one of the other girls in the group had taken a few weeks in advance of the project commencing!
I used our library to source this pattern so as I was able to form a 19th century historical based pattern and was easy to access the patterns quickly to get drafting them asap, so that I could stick to my schedules day to day plans. From studing many of the books.. very few actually had full patterns in with fulld rafting instructions, therefore I had to make use of the ones that did have this in! i therefore decided to use a pattern from 'The art of the tailor' by Robert Doyle for a morning coat which looked to be a similar shape to a dress coat but a more historical pattern than the patterns i found for the dress coat which appreared very much more modern. I did not want to use a strikingly modern shape pattern as i discussed earlier in my blogs, the historicial 19th century style is within the shape of my coat and to some extent the colours; rather than through the material or decoration!
I began to draft this pattern which, despite having followed historical patterns several times previously, was proving quite tricky due to having use an educated guess at exactly what they pattern instructions were directing you to plot! My drafting for the coat; was halted when the pattern was telling me to plot point 13, but on the diagram, there was no point 13 to direct me! I therefore checked the books other coat patterns to see if i could make an educated decision based on them being very similar drafting patterns; as to where the point 13 was on these, however this did not answer my problem. query unfortunately. Therefore; I met with my tutor to discuss my problem and see if he could explain it to me or if he could direct me to where I could find out the answer! He explained to me that some historic patterns are more informative and better than others.. as tailors of this period which the books were, to some extent, written for by the tailor who found the original pattern, would have been making and creating constantly garments (all very similar ones too, as menwear style was not majorly indivually innovative yet) for about 10 years at least, before they would learn how to draft patterns and follow patterns. By which time they woulld have enough knowledge from making the garments that they would be able to assume and visualise where to plot points (where it would make sense to plot them! )
My tutor recommended to me to use the dress coat pattern from 'The modern tailor, clothier and outfitter' book by A.A Whife, as this was a reliable sourced book and had two other volumes that accompanied it which explained things of that days terms, that may not be used or the case today! These books were extremely helpful and I was able to complete my dress coat pattern from these books, although this book was published in the latter part of the 19th century, so therefore it was more of a modern pattern than I was hoping to create, but it could be adapted once the basic pattern had been drafted which was the key thing to remember!
Therefore, from this, I learnt that next time I use a historical pattern; read it through thoroughly first before decising on it due to it being the right 'look' to ensure it is explained from start to end in a way that you can follow as in many historic patterns; very little is explained in detail or any depth particularly. Unfortunely, this set me back a day on my pattern drafting and therefore a day back on my schedule! However, I had allowed time for minor set backs so therefore this was not a problem which would effect me getting my coat and shirt created for James' first fitting. However this did cause me a lot of fustration as time was limited if i was to come across any further problems when I was putting the coat and shirt together!
The shirt patter I got from................ book and was much more simple to draft! This is i feel to an extent because 19th century style shirts are more of a baggy, less stylised, fitted shape!!
For both the coat and the Jacket, the measurement of the length was down to you to decide based on the height measurement you had taken from the person that would be wearing the garment. I decided this by using a tape measure, setting a manequin to James' height, and from my design deciding where I wanted these to come to, however this was something I felt would have been much easier visalising and deciding upon, if I had of taken this measurement instead of my group member helping us out by doing all of the measurements she felt necessary when measuring James before the project!
To get around this, I decided to put one of my housemate's 21st century modern shirts on the manequin to see where this came to as a guide and then decide based on my historical research pictures and written information on the styles of this period!
I finished creating both the patterns and added the adaptations I wanted to make to the Jacket pattern such as the lapel, which I wanted to make quite large and pointed, and the centre front line with a slight gap when it closed!
The sleeves and the collar for the jacket and shirt I drafted separately; as these are much more straight forward standard patterns which are always down to the cutter(maker) to adapt and decide! I made my colour very pointed to follow the sharpness of the jacket and the sleeves I followed the 19th century pattern and enseure they were to james' measurements; these I did not adapt to keep historical factors and would simply fit at the first fitting!
I was pleased when I had finished drafting my patterns and felt a sense of much confidence in my abilites that I have developed. Despite the set back; I was pleased I had managed to create these patterns and could continue to the next step with no major problems or no problems overhanging!
I used our library to source this pattern so as I was able to form a 19th century historical based pattern and was easy to access the patterns quickly to get drafting them asap, so that I could stick to my schedules day to day plans. From studing many of the books.. very few actually had full patterns in with fulld rafting instructions, therefore I had to make use of the ones that did have this in! i therefore decided to use a pattern from 'The art of the tailor' by Robert Doyle for a morning coat which looked to be a similar shape to a dress coat but a more historical pattern than the patterns i found for the dress coat which appreared very much more modern. I did not want to use a strikingly modern shape pattern as i discussed earlier in my blogs, the historicial 19th century style is within the shape of my coat and to some extent the colours; rather than through the material or decoration!
I began to draft this pattern which, despite having followed historical patterns several times previously, was proving quite tricky due to having use an educated guess at exactly what they pattern instructions were directing you to plot! My drafting for the coat; was halted when the pattern was telling me to plot point 13, but on the diagram, there was no point 13 to direct me! I therefore checked the books other coat patterns to see if i could make an educated decision based on them being very similar drafting patterns; as to where the point 13 was on these, however this did not answer my problem. query unfortunately. Therefore; I met with my tutor to discuss my problem and see if he could explain it to me or if he could direct me to where I could find out the answer! He explained to me that some historic patterns are more informative and better than others.. as tailors of this period which the books were, to some extent, written for by the tailor who found the original pattern, would have been making and creating constantly garments (all very similar ones too, as menwear style was not majorly indivually innovative yet) for about 10 years at least, before they would learn how to draft patterns and follow patterns. By which time they woulld have enough knowledge from making the garments that they would be able to assume and visualise where to plot points (where it would make sense to plot them! )
My tutor recommended to me to use the dress coat pattern from 'The modern tailor, clothier and outfitter' book by A.A Whife, as this was a reliable sourced book and had two other volumes that accompanied it which explained things of that days terms, that may not be used or the case today! These books were extremely helpful and I was able to complete my dress coat pattern from these books, although this book was published in the latter part of the 19th century, so therefore it was more of a modern pattern than I was hoping to create, but it could be adapted once the basic pattern had been drafted which was the key thing to remember!
Therefore, from this, I learnt that next time I use a historical pattern; read it through thoroughly first before decising on it due to it being the right 'look' to ensure it is explained from start to end in a way that you can follow as in many historic patterns; very little is explained in detail or any depth particularly. Unfortunely, this set me back a day on my pattern drafting and therefore a day back on my schedule! However, I had allowed time for minor set backs so therefore this was not a problem which would effect me getting my coat and shirt created for James' first fitting. However this did cause me a lot of fustration as time was limited if i was to come across any further problems when I was putting the coat and shirt together!
The shirt patter I got from................ book and was much more simple to draft! This is i feel to an extent because 19th century style shirts are more of a baggy, less stylised, fitted shape!!
For both the coat and the Jacket, the measurement of the length was down to you to decide based on the height measurement you had taken from the person that would be wearing the garment. I decided this by using a tape measure, setting a manequin to James' height, and from my design deciding where I wanted these to come to, however this was something I felt would have been much easier visalising and deciding upon, if I had of taken this measurement instead of my group member helping us out by doing all of the measurements she felt necessary when measuring James before the project!
To get around this, I decided to put one of my housemate's 21st century modern shirts on the manequin to see where this came to as a guide and then decide based on my historical research pictures and written information on the styles of this period!
I finished creating both the patterns and added the adaptations I wanted to make to the Jacket pattern such as the lapel, which I wanted to make quite large and pointed, and the centre front line with a slight gap when it closed!
The sleeves and the collar for the jacket and shirt I drafted separately; as these are much more straight forward standard patterns which are always down to the cutter(maker) to adapt and decide! I made my colour very pointed to follow the sharpness of the jacket and the sleeves I followed the 19th century pattern and enseure they were to james' measurements; these I did not adapt to keep historical factors and would simply fit at the first fitting!
I was pleased when I had finished drafting my patterns and felt a sense of much confidence in my abilites that I have developed. Despite the set back; I was pleased I had managed to create these patterns and could continue to the next step with no major problems or no problems overhanging!
Wednesday 14 April 2010
designs- initial designs (uncoloured)
These were my initial uncoloured outline designs. When I sent them to James; he responded with a definate liking to design 2; therefore this was my chosen design to make!
I did not feel there was a further need to do a design in colour as I have gone about my design process differently to my group anyway.. producing clear mood boards illustrating the fabrics considered, decoration and embellishment and definate colour palette' black, greys, charcoal, burnt amber!!
This I felt was simply a different way of designing and seeing as I have shown the mood boards to James, to give him an idea of my proposed plans for this design, I once again did not feel the need to claify this further by producing a coloured design; especially since we are limited to 9 weeks for the whole project and therefore would prefer to begin pattern drafting now I know the shape etc! (This was also not a priority for me,, as my design skills are very basic and therefore hence why I chose to go about my design porcess more through research and creating mood boards from this to illustrate my direction. If I had felt these mood boards were not direct and illustrative of my direction for my design/ designs; I would have then of gone onto draw the design up in a more detailed, specified manner! James clarified he understood the direction of the materials, shapes etc and was happy for me to go ahead!
Therefore this was the confirmation which began my pattern sourcing, drafting and fabric shopping!
mood boards! (finally found how to upload these!!)
Sorry for the long delay! These are my mood boards I created in my research period and then went on to use for my design process! Feel free to take a look as it helps support my designs!
reflective post on designing!
Ok, so when I went to Hansons fabric shop I had created a few designs, and emailed them to James, however I had not managed to do what I said in my earlier post; and managed to allow time for him to email me back regarding which pf my designs he liked best. I had chosen the two that I liked best, but I still really wanted the final decision to come from him, as it is my primary aim for him to be completely happy with his garments! This was another reason why I was only looking at fabrics at Hansons and getting an idea of what they had! However like I said in my reflection of my shoipping trip to Hansons; this was not really a big issue!
Interestingly, I was originally a little worried about the designing element of this project as I know that I do not possess particularly good human figure drawing skills; hence why I chose to specialise in making this year as opposed to specialising in design! However, from a designer's presentation that we had to attend for the last project, and from my work experience with a designer who was working on Lady GaGa and her dancer's costumes, it was made clear that designing didnt necessarily have to be about drawing; it could be through mood boards, line drawings of your proposed costume without it being 'on' a figure, or even using a model from a magazine and drawing on the computer your clothing design onto them! This therefore reassured me and made me less apprehensive about producing designs! I used several of these processes all of which back up and reinforce each other. To create my drawings I used tracing paper and traced the outline of model's standing positions and faces (to some extent) from magazine cuttings, I then was able to draw onto the bodies my designs and alter the face to look a little like my band member! The mood boards help to support, communicate and illustrate my designs and ideas as they show a colour palette, fabrics I was looking to be using, shapes and styles I liked, and elenments of decoration and decorational features I liked. I created these using photoshop and added notes to them so as when I was designing I knew the key elements I liked of the images I have used for the photomontage boards!
All in all I was very pleased with my initial designs. I did not originally add colour to these, instead I scanned and emailed the samples of the fabrics I had gathered from Hansons that I liked and was looking to use, and scanned a bead that I would be using on any of the designs with beads, along with the other components on some of the others, such as the row of sequins!! I also emailed james the mood boards with the samples so as he could gain an understanding of my direction. On reflection, if the projects time schedule had not of been so tight, I would have posted to him the actual samples or met with him to discuss these, however due to time schedules for both of us and distance; these was not possible. But I do realise this would be more accurate to how industry would work!
I then went on to add colour to the designs, despite my main colour palette being black and smokey grey/ black with elements of a dark red (maroon) or grey/blue!
This just helped to clarify what was what in my designs and relate further to my mood boards!
Interestingly, I was originally a little worried about the designing element of this project as I know that I do not possess particularly good human figure drawing skills; hence why I chose to specialise in making this year as opposed to specialising in design! However, from a designer's presentation that we had to attend for the last project, and from my work experience with a designer who was working on Lady GaGa and her dancer's costumes, it was made clear that designing didnt necessarily have to be about drawing; it could be through mood boards, line drawings of your proposed costume without it being 'on' a figure, or even using a model from a magazine and drawing on the computer your clothing design onto them! This therefore reassured me and made me less apprehensive about producing designs! I used several of these processes all of which back up and reinforce each other. To create my drawings I used tracing paper and traced the outline of model's standing positions and faces (to some extent) from magazine cuttings, I then was able to draw onto the bodies my designs and alter the face to look a little like my band member! The mood boards help to support, communicate and illustrate my designs and ideas as they show a colour palette, fabrics I was looking to be using, shapes and styles I liked, and elenments of decoration and decorational features I liked. I created these using photoshop and added notes to them so as when I was designing I knew the key elements I liked of the images I have used for the photomontage boards!
All in all I was very pleased with my initial designs. I did not originally add colour to these, instead I scanned and emailed the samples of the fabrics I had gathered from Hansons that I liked and was looking to use, and scanned a bead that I would be using on any of the designs with beads, along with the other components on some of the others, such as the row of sequins!! I also emailed james the mood boards with the samples so as he could gain an understanding of my direction. On reflection, if the projects time schedule had not of been so tight, I would have posted to him the actual samples or met with him to discuss these, however due to time schedules for both of us and distance; these was not possible. But I do realise this would be more accurate to how industry would work!
I then went on to add colour to the designs, despite my main colour palette being black and smokey grey/ black with elements of a dark red (maroon) or grey/blue!
This just helped to clarify what was what in my designs and relate further to my mood boards!
Tuesday 13 April 2010
fabric trip to Hansons fabric shop on the 25/03/2010
One member of the group kindly offered to drive, as we would not have been able to visit hansons if someone was not to drive as it is in a relatively remote location where there is not easy or much if any public transport from bournemouth. Equally I do not necessarily think we would have considered this trip if this was the case; as it would essentually have meant adding on high travel expenses to our fabric budget! Either, consequently limiting our choice to price or... having to go to a closer shop and buy something that maybe wasnt perfect and exactly what we wanted, but closest and having to settle for that!
The evaluation of the trip:
I felt this was a worthwhile trip; despite not buying any fabric; meerly looking to see what was there, getting sample and card to be able to get the fabric again if i wanted to use it for my final piece! The other girls in the group bought both their fabrics that day (their jacket fabrics and their trouser fabric) Their trouser fabric was all matching, however their jacket fabrics did vary in colours and slightly in texture due to their different designs!
On reflection of this, i realised that the three of them buying the same trouser fabric would mean that when i was sourcing my trousers; i would have to be very particular and fussy to get the closet match possible to avoid my band member looking not linked to the band! Likewise; when i buy my shirt fabric they will have to take this into consideration when sourcing their shirts! I did not buy my fabric on this trip as I personally felt I did not want to rush into buying the first fabric i saw! Also being on a bugdet, and knowing I would be back in london at home in less than a week from this date; I wanted to see if shepherds bush did any fabrics similar for a cheaper price or any fabrics I liked more and felt would be more appropriate! This trip however was very useful, as the girls bought the majority of their fabrics and components; therefore I was able to see the colours, shapes of components they chose, and textures they would be using to consider this when I was deciding and buying my fabrics and components and how I could ensure I was tying it into their costumes! (Creating costumes for a band, not individuals this way!) This trip equally allowed me to see the average price per metre of fabrics I was looking at to use to set a rough fabric forcasted budget!
All in all there are pro's and cons to my desicision to not buy stright away! In terms of cons; the girls would not be able to see my actual fabric decision untill the 1st fitting when i would bring them to show my band member too! Also, it meant another day; I would have to allow for fabric shopping where they could be working on their toiles; however as i have mentioned previously, I have created a schedule and was not on placement over easter and therefore felt this was necessarily a bad decision I made at all!
(see my schedule for my proposed fabric shopping day over easter)!
The evaluation of the trip:
I felt this was a worthwhile trip; despite not buying any fabric; meerly looking to see what was there, getting sample and card to be able to get the fabric again if i wanted to use it for my final piece! The other girls in the group bought both their fabrics that day (their jacket fabrics and their trouser fabric) Their trouser fabric was all matching, however their jacket fabrics did vary in colours and slightly in texture due to their different designs!
On reflection of this, i realised that the three of them buying the same trouser fabric would mean that when i was sourcing my trousers; i would have to be very particular and fussy to get the closet match possible to avoid my band member looking not linked to the band! Likewise; when i buy my shirt fabric they will have to take this into consideration when sourcing their shirts! I did not buy my fabric on this trip as I personally felt I did not want to rush into buying the first fabric i saw! Also being on a bugdet, and knowing I would be back in london at home in less than a week from this date; I wanted to see if shepherds bush did any fabrics similar for a cheaper price or any fabrics I liked more and felt would be more appropriate! This trip however was very useful, as the girls bought the majority of their fabrics and components; therefore I was able to see the colours, shapes of components they chose, and textures they would be using to consider this when I was deciding and buying my fabrics and components and how I could ensure I was tying it into their costumes! (Creating costumes for a band, not individuals this way!) This trip equally allowed me to see the average price per metre of fabrics I was looking at to use to set a rough fabric forcasted budget!
All in all there are pro's and cons to my desicision to not buy stright away! In terms of cons; the girls would not be able to see my actual fabric decision untill the 1st fitting when i would bring them to show my band member too! Also, it meant another day; I would have to allow for fabric shopping where they could be working on their toiles; however as i have mentioned previously, I have created a schedule and was not on placement over easter and therefore felt this was necessarily a bad decision I made at all!
(see my schedule for my proposed fabric shopping day over easter)!
group discussion/ reflective group meeting!
This meeting was basically so that we could all discuss where we were up to with our designs and arranging a date we could or most of us could make for the fitting!
Both me and another group member were still at the designing stages but proposed to have the designs done within the next one or two days of this meeting! The other two girls had completed their designs and were at the stage of sending them off to their band members regarding which one they liked most, or deciding which one they would send to their band member as their proposed design! I had decided that as I was working on this project with my band member,and it had to be a very collaborative process in order to achieve providing what he wanted; I was going to send him all of my designs and he could tell me which he liked best, but also if there were any elements form the other that he wanted any to include within his selected one, or equally any elements he dislike and wanted changed or he felt would not be appropriate for performing! However, I don't think all of the girls i am working with did this necessarily, as we are all going about this project in our own ways in terms of our time schedules for when we do things and how we go about things, but have meetings such as the one above to discuss how things are going and new ideas etc to ensure that the costumes will tie in together! This does make me worry that we should be working more together. By this i mean, in terms of the way we are approaching the project and relating to our selected band members we are making for, but i guess we are still all adding our own touch of personality and creativity to our garments and process of making them and therefore if we were doing everything the same way all the time, we may be restricted in showing and creating this! In a similar way; the band members all have their own personalities and styles slightly so therefore i do not feel their costumes/ garments should necessarily be made from matching materials! As long as we make sure key elements tie all of the costumes together and keep this in mind throughout the process I feel they will be a success and will come together well! By having weekly meetings and discussions; I feel we are all on the same track in wanting to ensure things come together!
From this meeting we decided;
- me and the other one of the girls thsat hadn't done our designs would do them!
- the 2 others in the group would find their patterns and begin pattern drafting as they both had less time over easter as they would be on placement!
- colour pallete: black, grey, navy/dark blue
- the first fitting that suited the majority of us was 6th April (over easter) in the evening; this is providing the band were oall ok with this date too! Unfortunately one group member would not be able to make this fitting, but she suggested rather than rearranging one for her with all of us there, she would be happy for us to fit hers to her band member (who could make the fitting)!
I was not necessarily sure that I would be happy to have done this if I had of been in her situation, and made sure that she felt she could re-arrange it with us there to support her another time, but equally this fitting date was convienient for most of us and therefore without shortening the amount of time we would have to create our final garments ready for the 2nd fitting (the almost finished fitting!) this date was best! Also, we had to consider the band shedules and dates that all of most of the band members could do too! Therefore this date all the band could do and considering they had to consider their work schedules (outside of the band) this date suited most!
- the second fitting date which we all could make we decided would be 3/05/2010. We decided this at the same time so as the band had plenty of notice! This we all believed, would allow us 3 weeks after easter to get our garments made up form our top fabrics and the decoration completed!
I feel the meeting was a productive part of working as a team and it allowed us to discuss where we were all at, how we were planning to move forward and plan dates and key group schedule date and dates we aimed to have key things done by!
We ended this meeting on this note and would be meeting again for our arranged fabric shop to Hansons, to buy/ get an idea for our fabrics on thursday 25/03/2010!
Both me and another group member were still at the designing stages but proposed to have the designs done within the next one or two days of this meeting! The other two girls had completed their designs and were at the stage of sending them off to their band members regarding which one they liked most, or deciding which one they would send to their band member as their proposed design! I had decided that as I was working on this project with my band member,and it had to be a very collaborative process in order to achieve providing what he wanted; I was going to send him all of my designs and he could tell me which he liked best, but also if there were any elements form the other that he wanted any to include within his selected one, or equally any elements he dislike and wanted changed or he felt would not be appropriate for performing! However, I don't think all of the girls i am working with did this necessarily, as we are all going about this project in our own ways in terms of our time schedules for when we do things and how we go about things, but have meetings such as the one above to discuss how things are going and new ideas etc to ensure that the costumes will tie in together! This does make me worry that we should be working more together. By this i mean, in terms of the way we are approaching the project and relating to our selected band members we are making for, but i guess we are still all adding our own touch of personality and creativity to our garments and process of making them and therefore if we were doing everything the same way all the time, we may be restricted in showing and creating this! In a similar way; the band members all have their own personalities and styles slightly so therefore i do not feel their costumes/ garments should necessarily be made from matching materials! As long as we make sure key elements tie all of the costumes together and keep this in mind throughout the process I feel they will be a success and will come together well! By having weekly meetings and discussions; I feel we are all on the same track in wanting to ensure things come together!
From this meeting we decided;
- me and the other one of the girls thsat hadn't done our designs would do them!
- the 2 others in the group would find their patterns and begin pattern drafting as they both had less time over easter as they would be on placement!
- colour pallete: black, grey, navy/dark blue
- the first fitting that suited the majority of us was 6th April (over easter) in the evening; this is providing the band were oall ok with this date too! Unfortunately one group member would not be able to make this fitting, but she suggested rather than rearranging one for her with all of us there, she would be happy for us to fit hers to her band member (who could make the fitting)!
I was not necessarily sure that I would be happy to have done this if I had of been in her situation, and made sure that she felt she could re-arrange it with us there to support her another time, but equally this fitting date was convienient for most of us and therefore without shortening the amount of time we would have to create our final garments ready for the 2nd fitting (the almost finished fitting!) this date was best! Also, we had to consider the band shedules and dates that all of most of the band members could do too! Therefore this date all the band could do and considering they had to consider their work schedules (outside of the band) this date suited most!
- the second fitting date which we all could make we decided would be 3/05/2010. We decided this at the same time so as the band had plenty of notice! This we all believed, would allow us 3 weeks after easter to get our garments made up form our top fabrics and the decoration completed!
I feel the meeting was a productive part of working as a team and it allowed us to discuss where we were all at, how we were planning to move forward and plan dates and key group schedule date and dates we aimed to have key things done by!
We ended this meeting on this note and would be meeting again for our arranged fabric shop to Hansons, to buy/ get an idea for our fabrics on thursday 25/03/2010!
Monday 12 April 2010
Wednesday 24 March 2010
reflections on my work carried out from the 10//03/2010- 15/03/2010 (group meeting)
Ok, so up untill this meeting I have been researching researching researching! I was really keen to get as much research and as much information from band member James about what he wanted as possible; so did not mind spending such a bulky amount of time researching. The research I have been conducting has not only been secondary and elements of primary from discussing with James what he wanmted; I decided some more primary research would be very useful for informing the modern element of my designs for band member James' Jacket and shirt. Therefore, I studied a selection of tailored menswear jackets and shirts of interest to me due to style, shape, fabric at several middle end budget Smart, formal menswear stores! You can see my pictures and evaluations/ analysis attached!
From conducting this extensive research I feel I will not become disillusioned and repetitive when forming designs for James' garments. I equally feel there more research conducted, the more experimentation and development that can follow from producing designs. Equally, I have experienced in previous projects how extensive research can help solve any unpredicted design problems that could possibly arise when trialling or even throughout the making process! For example, if you find that your main fabric does not look the way you proposed it to with the fabric for the lapel.. you may have decorational research which you can draw from and add something to the two; which can then make the combination work again! There are many more examples I could give.. but I am sure I will face some along the way that I will be discussing or reporting to you; but hopefully I will be able to overcome them due to my research!
All in all I feel that my research is all valuable as it is all relevant to my design process and can be seen through my designs and other parts will be seen through developments and trials at a later stage!
However... I do now need to get going on some designs; as I do need to consider that once I have completed them, I need to email them to James to decided which ones/ one he likes the most. I realise if i do not consider my time schedule and allow time for james to email back this will effect my ability to go fabric shoipping and make decisions on ordering decorational features straight away!
keep watch... things are developing... beginning to get to more of the exciting stages!
From conducting this extensive research I feel I will not become disillusioned and repetitive when forming designs for James' garments. I equally feel there more research conducted, the more experimentation and development that can follow from producing designs. Equally, I have experienced in previous projects how extensive research can help solve any unpredicted design problems that could possibly arise when trialling or even throughout the making process! For example, if you find that your main fabric does not look the way you proposed it to with the fabric for the lapel.. you may have decorational research which you can draw from and add something to the two; which can then make the combination work again! There are many more examples I could give.. but I am sure I will face some along the way that I will be discussing or reporting to you; but hopefully I will be able to overcome them due to my research!
All in all I feel that my research is all valuable as it is all relevant to my design process and can be seen through my designs and other parts will be seen through developments and trials at a later stage!
However... I do now need to get going on some designs; as I do need to consider that once I have completed them, I need to email them to James to decided which ones/ one he likes the most. I realise if i do not consider my time schedule and allow time for james to email back this will effect my ability to go fabric shoipping and make decisions on ordering decorational features straight away!
keep watch... things are developing... beginning to get to more of the exciting stages!
Sunday 21 March 2010
tutorial reflection 10/03/2010
Ok so basically u can see attached to this blog a mood board i created from my initial pictures I had found and took along to my tutorial to show the direction of the jacket for James!
We began the turoial refreshing (tutor) Graham about what we were doing and proposing to produce. This was useful as it allowed us as a group to check that we were all under the same understanding and clarify each of our intensions! We had decided we were all going to produce a 19th century style tailored jacket for each of our band members but the other item we could each deicide what we would prefer to make! I had been considering the heat of the staging and therefore was keen to create an interesting shirt for james as my second garment so that when he took his jacket off, he would have another interesting garment underneath. Equally through discussions with james about his style etc... he mentioned that the band generally wear smartish trousers/ black smart skinny jeans and therefore it would be nicer for him to have something that he didnt have; a stylish shirt for example! LOL
Shelly, charlotte and jen had decided that they wanted to make the trousers for their band members but did not see it a problem for me to make james a shirt instead!
Interestingly.. this then led the tutorials discussion to whether we were considering doing an end photoshoot for them once our garments had been finished and completed! This would then mean sourcing the extra items for them! I.e I would be sourcing james trousers to go with the trousers shelly, charlotte and jen had made, and they would be sourcing 19th century style shirts in keeping with the theme and the shirt i had made for james! Equally any other parts to our designs (i.e if they had waistcoats; they would source!)
The outcome of the discussion was that we all agreed this would be great finish to the project and displaying what we ahd made; in the context that it may be used! (for band photoshoot and performances) However some members of the group; considering their time schedules were worried about finishing in time to allow time for the photoshoot at the end! We all agreed that those of us that felt we could finish in time would include this on our learning agreements and it did not matter if this was not something we all produced for assessment as well as our garments!
Also discussed in the session was costs; budget and were the band going to pay for the costumes and then keep them to perform in or were we paying and keeping them or what our scheme would be for this!
-rgearding the budget we all decided £100 mark each was our aim as none of us could afford much more than this so soon after our last project! We would be working to this budget as closely as possible, but obviously the outcomes would vary for each of us!
- As a group we dicussed putting to the band the potential idea of renting them out to them for a small cost each time they wished to wear them for a performance or photoshoot until they had covered the costs in total that we were staisfied with and had agreed with them; and after this they could keep them!
We came up with this scheme based on the fact they are a relatively young band and asking them for a lump largish sum of money to pay for the costumes may be a little offputting to them; so this scheme of a little at a time be be more appealing to them!
The last thing we discussed was fabric! Key considerations such as colours and our chosen palette so that our costumes linked together, weight of fabric; considering they were performing in them and how much fabric we would each need!
Our discussed and chosen palette as a group is dark sooty colours; black, grey,d.silvers, coppers, navy, burgendy, d. reds.
The amount of fabric we decided should be adequate to cover the jackets (coats) would be: 4 metres
for James' shirt: 2 2/2 metres and the same for the trousers for the others!
Graham directed us to 2 books we could use for creating our basic blocks for our jackets:
'Tailor clothier and outfitter'
'The art of the tailor' By Robert Doyle; the patterns are fairly complex due to working in old pattern drafting terms!
We completed the meeting by deciding we would meet again as a group ont the 15/3/2010 for further discussions and developments in ideas and our directions and for discussing and problems, further ideas etc with each other.
We began the turoial refreshing (tutor) Graham about what we were doing and proposing to produce. This was useful as it allowed us as a group to check that we were all under the same understanding and clarify each of our intensions! We had decided we were all going to produce a 19th century style tailored jacket for each of our band members but the other item we could each deicide what we would prefer to make! I had been considering the heat of the staging and therefore was keen to create an interesting shirt for james as my second garment so that when he took his jacket off, he would have another interesting garment underneath. Equally through discussions with james about his style etc... he mentioned that the band generally wear smartish trousers/ black smart skinny jeans and therefore it would be nicer for him to have something that he didnt have; a stylish shirt for example! LOL
Shelly, charlotte and jen had decided that they wanted to make the trousers for their band members but did not see it a problem for me to make james a shirt instead!
Interestingly.. this then led the tutorials discussion to whether we were considering doing an end photoshoot for them once our garments had been finished and completed! This would then mean sourcing the extra items for them! I.e I would be sourcing james trousers to go with the trousers shelly, charlotte and jen had made, and they would be sourcing 19th century style shirts in keeping with the theme and the shirt i had made for james! Equally any other parts to our designs (i.e if they had waistcoats; they would source!)
The outcome of the discussion was that we all agreed this would be great finish to the project and displaying what we ahd made; in the context that it may be used! (for band photoshoot and performances) However some members of the group; considering their time schedules were worried about finishing in time to allow time for the photoshoot at the end! We all agreed that those of us that felt we could finish in time would include this on our learning agreements and it did not matter if this was not something we all produced for assessment as well as our garments!
Also discussed in the session was costs; budget and were the band going to pay for the costumes and then keep them to perform in or were we paying and keeping them or what our scheme would be for this!
-rgearding the budget we all decided £100 mark each was our aim as none of us could afford much more than this so soon after our last project! We would be working to this budget as closely as possible, but obviously the outcomes would vary for each of us!
- As a group we dicussed putting to the band the potential idea of renting them out to them for a small cost each time they wished to wear them for a performance or photoshoot until they had covered the costs in total that we were staisfied with and had agreed with them; and after this they could keep them!
We came up with this scheme based on the fact they are a relatively young band and asking them for a lump largish sum of money to pay for the costumes may be a little offputting to them; so this scheme of a little at a time be be more appealing to them!
The last thing we discussed was fabric! Key considerations such as colours and our chosen palette so that our costumes linked together, weight of fabric; considering they were performing in them and how much fabric we would each need!
Our discussed and chosen palette as a group is dark sooty colours; black, grey,d.silvers, coppers, navy, burgendy, d. reds.
The amount of fabric we decided should be adequate to cover the jackets (coats) would be: 4 metres
for James' shirt: 2 2/2 metres and the same for the trousers for the others!
Graham directed us to 2 books we could use for creating our basic blocks for our jackets:
'Tailor clothier and outfitter'
'The art of the tailor' By Robert Doyle; the patterns are fairly complex due to working in old pattern drafting terms!
We completed the meeting by deciding we would meet again as a group ont the 15/3/2010 for further discussions and developments in ideas and our directions and for discussing and problems, further ideas etc with each other.
Tutorial Reflections
So Tuesday 9th March 2010 we had a re focus meeting having just handed in my last project! This was really useful in refreshing me on the things I needed to consider whilst creating my make for this project such as tutorials, considering time management and if working in a group; considering the other people's time schedules in your group! This meeting was great in exciting me about the project as it reminded us that this was a self directed project so led and timetabled by us; as we will be doing maybe in industry after next year! I like idea of this as it is a self test of how much I have learnt from my first 2 years and can apply to this project through my own abilities! Therefore the First outcome of this meeting I decided was for me to form a time schedule for myself! Then as a group we would decide when we were having meetings (as needed) and i could schedule these in! Our first initial meeting would be our 1st tutorial with Graham, where we had decided as a group that before this we would all find images that we liked and could form a start of our research from and show the direction of our research for graham (tutor) to view and gain an understanding from.
You can view my schedule by clicking on the link below! This I knew would change but by forming a basic schedule I can feel i have plotted my time in order to be on track for completion for the deadline on the 17th May 2010!
You can view my schedule by clicking on the link below! This I knew would change but by forming a basic schedule I can feel i have plotted my time in order to be on track for completion for the deadline on the 17th May 2010!
tutorial reflection
Hey everyone! First blog... bit late but going to update you with the madness of the 1st 2 weeks approximately!
Firstly; I'll introduce you to what I am creating for this project! Basically I was invited to work on a project with 3 of my university costume friends; Shelly Calvert (The effective founder of the project; she's got all the contacts!!), Charlotte Cutcher and Jennifer Ridge. Our project is to create 19th Century inspired costumes for each of the 4 band members; The Rileys! (4 of them, 4 of us!!) Therefore, we will each be designing and making a costume for 1 band member each! This sounds very convenient and easy.. however for this project the key thing regarding the success of it will be how we link them in to each other. We all have our ideas and styles but if we were to just design away, then make them without regular discussions, meetings, conversations about our designs, shopping trips together and fittings together; a positive outcome would not be the result as we would end up with 4 individual costumes for them; therefore not considering and linking them as a band!
This is something that we all agreed when First discussing the potential idea of the project must be a key and primary consideration constantly and throughout!
So now I have introduced you to the project you can follow the progress over the next weeks and see the process we go through to ensure the above and the process we go through linking it to this industry. My blog will also be very reflective and will discuss developments, problems and what I feel works and didn't work about the project perhaps! Also, i will discuss how i feel at various points into the project, so you can gain a real inside insight into our project; so keep watch!
Sorry for rambling on the first post, but I promise that generally the posts will be generally exclusing a few, relatively short but informative!!
Firstly; I'll introduce you to what I am creating for this project! Basically I was invited to work on a project with 3 of my university costume friends; Shelly Calvert (The effective founder of the project; she's got all the contacts!!), Charlotte Cutcher and Jennifer Ridge. Our project is to create 19th Century inspired costumes for each of the 4 band members; The Rileys! (4 of them, 4 of us!!) Therefore, we will each be designing and making a costume for 1 band member each! This sounds very convenient and easy.. however for this project the key thing regarding the success of it will be how we link them in to each other. We all have our ideas and styles but if we were to just design away, then make them without regular discussions, meetings, conversations about our designs, shopping trips together and fittings together; a positive outcome would not be the result as we would end up with 4 individual costumes for them; therefore not considering and linking them as a band!
This is something that we all agreed when First discussing the potential idea of the project must be a key and primary consideration constantly and throughout!
So now I have introduced you to the project you can follow the progress over the next weeks and see the process we go through to ensure the above and the process we go through linking it to this industry. My blog will also be very reflective and will discuss developments, problems and what I feel works and didn't work about the project perhaps! Also, i will discuss how i feel at various points into the project, so you can gain a real inside insight into our project; so keep watch!
Sorry for rambling on the first post, but I promise that generally the posts will be generally exclusing a few, relatively short but informative!!
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