First thing in the morning I grabbed my tutor to ensure I could get my queries answered; so that I would be able to continue with my schedule and catch up on it from the less productive day yesterday! My tutor did answer my queries, however regarding the shirt; simply agreed with the option I have come up with, or said that he wouldnt particularly even worry about making the seams this neat and would simply just overlock them. This option I was not satisfied with as it would not give me the lovelyt finish that I wanted; therefore I decided he had approved my suggestion regarding rollign the seams in and then top stitching them together; so I would complete the seams of my shirt this way giving the best finish I could under the circumstances.
Regarding the sleeves of my Jacket and how to line these; he said that this would be a trail and error situation and would advise I tried it the way I thought to; but if this didnt work, I would have to look into other options! He noted that there was not necessarily a right way to do this; it was more of a decision that would come from me about what worked best!
The colalr he advised I studded and decorated after I had made it up! This above advice could now help me to proceed with my garments!
Ok so today I was to be finishing learning how to line my jacket. However... due to being set back by yesterdays fustrations I was only beginning the lining process!!!
When our tutor began the tutorial, he called us over as a group to discuss the linings. I did not feel that at this point in time; this was the best way to explain it; as we were all at different stages. Two members of the group had decided on tuesday (day before) to plough on; use their initiative as our tutor was not available on the tuesday, and find out from two other students making similar 19th century style coats; how they put their linings in and follow this process. I chose yesterday not to do this, as I prefer to be assured about the process being the correct way and ensuring I am not missing out any bital steps! They performed putting in the lining the bagging out way! However, when out tutor was conducting our group tutorial he was worried to see this was the way it had been done and hence why they were having a number of issues with the fit of the lining into the garment! This was very interesting to see; as it was the example of how if something has been tailored throughout; the same degree of care and attention goes into the lining and there is no quick processes within a tailored garment! He explained how much of the lining in the coats is hand sewing (slip stitched) along with a very careful smoothing out technique! What is interesting also about the tailored way of lining a garment is it is done from as flat as possible. (This meant me undoing my shoukder seams) Therefore; this was one highlighted error or the girls implementation of their linings as they had attemoted to put it in with the garment fully sewn together and the sleeves sewn in place! Therefore for them; they not only had to remove their linings but unpick their sleeves from their garment as well as their shoulder seams too!
An interesting learning point for me (who had not began my lining; hence I would do it the correct way from start to finish) was the first thing to be done; concentrating on the front; the front lining and front facing are created separately and sewn in spearately to the rest of the lining. The front is always completed first on a tailored garment! After this, you move onto the sides and backs; where the lining is sewn together before being put in and then smoothed in and slip stiched to the side of the front lining. Then, the skirts are placed in, smoothed to ensure a perfect fit , basted down as all of the pieces are when they have been smoothed into the correct place and put in and then slip stitched into place.
A tip to avoid bulkiness in your lining; (which is not ever a tailor's way) is to cut down all the canvases to the sewing line before putting your lining in place also cut your pieces with just enough lining to fold under to slip stitch over to attach it in place.
The last thing that goes onto the jacket, eve after the sleeves is the collar!
These tips are very valuable and should help me to gain accuracy in the future next year with my projects! This will help me to work more independently on this part of my garment as I did not feel at all comfotable this time around without the help and tuition from my tutor for this part of the jacket!
Today..i only got done the front lining and facing and cutting down all of my seams and canvases! However I aim to continue tomorrow!
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