Thursday 6 May 2010

2nd fitting- technical evaluation (adaptations)

So in terms of what I have to alter this week!

My shirt was a relatively good fit now, however due to lengthening it, I did not consider the hip measurement being wider! This was not a problem as I had still left a good 3cm on the seams and therefore I could take the shirt out at the hip either side the very small amount it needed. Therefore I will be letting the seam out from the pin (and very faint mark) just at the hip 2cm.

The Pique on the shirt I had decided the length and width of by assessing this whilst the shirt was on the stand. Seeing it on James and against the correct fit (not on a model stand) I was still happy with the length of this; this meant that I could use the papper pattern I had used to create this mock version! Regarding the cuffs, due to the sleeves being the right length; I can now this week, go ahead and measure and create the cuffs. I described to james that these would have the pleats in too! This is the same policy with the decorative piece at the lower stomach; due to having checked the CF measurement was correct on the shirt and closed; fitting.. I can this week create this pleated decorational piece. Seeing the shirt on james I could see and discuss with James how low he was happy to have the top opening of the shirt undone and marked this. I also marked how far up the shirt would be sewn and the small amount of buttons that would be inbetween this and the top off the shirt that would be left open.

The collar on the shirt fitted perfectly and was a better shape having increased the size of the lower point; this made it more of a bold eye catching shape!

The sleeve of the shirt needed pulling up a little to create a better fit around the head of the sleeve and has been marked in accordance. This then meant the sleeve would need lengthening by about 2cm around the head to allow for this.

The Jacket:

The CF line would have very little allowance; enough to be able to attach the facing of the jacket! This was due to the fact James had been toning up and working out and had expanded across the pectorials and rib area. This I now, do not see as an issue now, as my Jacket design does deliberately not close in my design so that the shirt can be seen. Equally, considering the fact they are performing and the reason I wished to make a shirt was due to the heat factor; hence they would probably be taking them off anyway; I do not see it being an issue the jacket not properly closing. I may however place buttons on the jacket both sides to make an ironic point that it does not close deliberately; but will add an added decorational touch!

Jacket sleeve: I needed to redraft the sleeve head from my markings on the armhole of the jacket! It also needs to be extended in lenth at the cuff a fraction to allow for seam allowance!

The Jacket Collar I was equally very pleased with both the fit and the shape. So I can this week- cut them from my top fabric ready to make the collar up with Graham's direction on how to put in the collar canvas, the following week!

Trousers:

The monday of the week previously to the fitting; I had gone back to topshop, (having done a mens trouser price check in many different stores, of the trousers that matched the sample shelly had given me of their trouser fabric, the saturday before this, founding they were the cheapest as I could get student discount! When buying these to get the nearest possible size; I used the inside leg, outside leg and waist measurements from my measurement sheet shelly had provided us with at the start of the project. The trousers surprisingly were almost the exact measurements matching James'. Therefore, when James put the trousers on; they were an exact fit and needed no alterations! Therefore I was pleased that I had spent time looking around at different shops among the differnt styles they offered and prices they were at in many different stores! I feel the trousers I sourced were the most appropriate considering my budget as well as style.


I felt this was overall a good fitting! The week ahead, I plan to get all my alterations completed (making use of temporary tutor suzan) in our tutor's replacement! I also plan to get my collar pieces and sleeves cut out from top fabric. The decorative elements of the shirt made up read to be applied.

This then allows me the final week to complete my lining, facings, collars (making them up), and decoration to the jacket and stitched onto the shirt. Then the last weekend; buttons can be sewn on and applied!

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