So I proposed this week (being aware that my tutor was away and a temporary tutor had been arranged for the week to cover who would not necessarily know exactly what our project was about and all the ins and outs of it and reasons for decisions made etc), that I would carry out my alterations from my fitting, create my piping that would go on the jacket (out of my black fabric but the reversed side) and work on my sleeves and correcting those. I also proposed to work on my shirt pique pieces; knowing that they were now the correct size etc (from the fitting), the pleated cuffs and the bottom pleated decorational part; getting this to the desired shape and size!
My alterations, were not particularly complicated however, this time I used the procedure of transfering them from one side to the other and re-tacking the lines in place to show the new lines; for a more lasting mark of where things should be placed (e.g the armhole)! I checked with temporary tutor suzan that this was the right way to go about them and she agreed. She also suggested that for the sleeves instead of redrafting them completely; due to the sleeve head shape not changing changing but simply needing to be extended, due to the new armwhole line being moved more toward the neckline; I just needed to measure the extra amount I needed to add to the top of the sleeve head and then apply it to the sleeve head when creating my new pattern piece. The alterations and added tacking took up more time than I expected. I also, despite not fully making them up (sewing them together), wanted to have my collars cut out of my top fabric and the collar canvas ready for My tutor to instruct me on the construction of when he got back; as I need them to be very stiff; especially for the shirt collar; and had prediscussed seeing him about this when he got back, before my 2nd fitting.
I therefore prioritised my alterations; getting my sleeves cut out ready and alterations done. This meant that I did not get onto finishing my Pleated cuffs and piques. Also, I did not wish to rush to get these done as they are key decorational parts of the shirt that would have attention drawn to them; therefore I wanted my measurements for the pleats and where they sat to be as identically accurate as possible. (Like the quality of a tailor made high fashion shirt; very particular and methodical!) Therefore, I was discapointed that these were things I would have to account for in next weeks schedule and add into; however I rathered spending more time on them to gain a quality finish than rushing them.
I did however get the deocrational pleated bottom part completed and was pleased with the result of this!
Suzanne was very helpful and very keen to discuss our projects with us. What I felt was wonderful; was she offered support and her opinion on how to do things; but did not direct you or tell you it was the only way to do it and you had to do it that way! Therefore, her experience within industry did not make her seem undermining or derogatory of our skills! She liked to hear how we would go about it and would then offer her assistance or agree! This gave me belief that I was not out of my depth with this project and was very capable at making good informed decisions; as an industry professional would in their day to day practice!
One slight other task I reaslised the monday night when arriving home from my fitting was that I would need more of the copper knitted wire that would be used for the reverse applique on the sleeves; due to having completed the sample on my 2nd fitting calico sleeve! This was not an issue as I knew this seller was very quick at posting the order and it would be with me if ordered tuesday morning by thursday! However; this was another task to schedule into my weeks plans; possibly resulting in the delay on finishing the cuffs and piques! However; I am pleased I had considered this early on in the week or this may have caused a problem later on in the week if I had not; when I was scheduling for the following week's jobs and time allownaces!!!
Monday, 10 May 2010
Thursday, 6 May 2010
2nd fitting- technical evaluation (adaptations)
So in terms of what I have to alter this week!
My shirt was a relatively good fit now, however due to lengthening it, I did not consider the hip measurement being wider! This was not a problem as I had still left a good 3cm on the seams and therefore I could take the shirt out at the hip either side the very small amount it needed. Therefore I will be letting the seam out from the pin (and very faint mark) just at the hip 2cm.
The Pique on the shirt I had decided the length and width of by assessing this whilst the shirt was on the stand. Seeing it on James and against the correct fit (not on a model stand) I was still happy with the length of this; this meant that I could use the papper pattern I had used to create this mock version! Regarding the cuffs, due to the sleeves being the right length; I can now this week, go ahead and measure and create the cuffs. I described to james that these would have the pleats in too! This is the same policy with the decorative piece at the lower stomach; due to having checked the CF measurement was correct on the shirt and closed; fitting.. I can this week create this pleated decorational piece. Seeing the shirt on james I could see and discuss with James how low he was happy to have the top opening of the shirt undone and marked this. I also marked how far up the shirt would be sewn and the small amount of buttons that would be inbetween this and the top off the shirt that would be left open.
The collar on the shirt fitted perfectly and was a better shape having increased the size of the lower point; this made it more of a bold eye catching shape!
The sleeve of the shirt needed pulling up a little to create a better fit around the head of the sleeve and has been marked in accordance. This then meant the sleeve would need lengthening by about 2cm around the head to allow for this.
The Jacket:
The CF line would have very little allowance; enough to be able to attach the facing of the jacket! This was due to the fact James had been toning up and working out and had expanded across the pectorials and rib area. This I now, do not see as an issue now, as my Jacket design does deliberately not close in my design so that the shirt can be seen. Equally, considering the fact they are performing and the reason I wished to make a shirt was due to the heat factor; hence they would probably be taking them off anyway; I do not see it being an issue the jacket not properly closing. I may however place buttons on the jacket both sides to make an ironic point that it does not close deliberately; but will add an added decorational touch!
Jacket sleeve: I needed to redraft the sleeve head from my markings on the armhole of the jacket! It also needs to be extended in lenth at the cuff a fraction to allow for seam allowance!
The Jacket Collar I was equally very pleased with both the fit and the shape. So I can this week- cut them from my top fabric ready to make the collar up with Graham's direction on how to put in the collar canvas, the following week!
Trousers:
The monday of the week previously to the fitting; I had gone back to topshop, (having done a mens trouser price check in many different stores, of the trousers that matched the sample shelly had given me of their trouser fabric, the saturday before this, founding they were the cheapest as I could get student discount! When buying these to get the nearest possible size; I used the inside leg, outside leg and waist measurements from my measurement sheet shelly had provided us with at the start of the project. The trousers surprisingly were almost the exact measurements matching James'. Therefore, when James put the trousers on; they were an exact fit and needed no alterations! Therefore I was pleased that I had spent time looking around at different shops among the differnt styles they offered and prices they were at in many different stores! I feel the trousers I sourced were the most appropriate considering my budget as well as style.
I felt this was overall a good fitting! The week ahead, I plan to get all my alterations completed (making use of temporary tutor suzan) in our tutor's replacement! I also plan to get my collar pieces and sleeves cut out from top fabric. The decorative elements of the shirt made up read to be applied.
This then allows me the final week to complete my lining, facings, collars (making them up), and decoration to the jacket and stitched onto the shirt. Then the last weekend; buttons can be sewn on and applied!
My shirt was a relatively good fit now, however due to lengthening it, I did not consider the hip measurement being wider! This was not a problem as I had still left a good 3cm on the seams and therefore I could take the shirt out at the hip either side the very small amount it needed. Therefore I will be letting the seam out from the pin (and very faint mark) just at the hip 2cm.
The Pique on the shirt I had decided the length and width of by assessing this whilst the shirt was on the stand. Seeing it on James and against the correct fit (not on a model stand) I was still happy with the length of this; this meant that I could use the papper pattern I had used to create this mock version! Regarding the cuffs, due to the sleeves being the right length; I can now this week, go ahead and measure and create the cuffs. I described to james that these would have the pleats in too! This is the same policy with the decorative piece at the lower stomach; due to having checked the CF measurement was correct on the shirt and closed; fitting.. I can this week create this pleated decorational piece. Seeing the shirt on james I could see and discuss with James how low he was happy to have the top opening of the shirt undone and marked this. I also marked how far up the shirt would be sewn and the small amount of buttons that would be inbetween this and the top off the shirt that would be left open.
The collar on the shirt fitted perfectly and was a better shape having increased the size of the lower point; this made it more of a bold eye catching shape!
The sleeve of the shirt needed pulling up a little to create a better fit around the head of the sleeve and has been marked in accordance. This then meant the sleeve would need lengthening by about 2cm around the head to allow for this.
The Jacket:
The CF line would have very little allowance; enough to be able to attach the facing of the jacket! This was due to the fact James had been toning up and working out and had expanded across the pectorials and rib area. This I now, do not see as an issue now, as my Jacket design does deliberately not close in my design so that the shirt can be seen. Equally, considering the fact they are performing and the reason I wished to make a shirt was due to the heat factor; hence they would probably be taking them off anyway; I do not see it being an issue the jacket not properly closing. I may however place buttons on the jacket both sides to make an ironic point that it does not close deliberately; but will add an added decorational touch!
Jacket sleeve: I needed to redraft the sleeve head from my markings on the armhole of the jacket! It also needs to be extended in lenth at the cuff a fraction to allow for seam allowance!
The Jacket Collar I was equally very pleased with both the fit and the shape. So I can this week- cut them from my top fabric ready to make the collar up with Graham's direction on how to put in the collar canvas, the following week!
Trousers:
The monday of the week previously to the fitting; I had gone back to topshop, (having done a mens trouser price check in many different stores, of the trousers that matched the sample shelly had given me of their trouser fabric, the saturday before this, founding they were the cheapest as I could get student discount! When buying these to get the nearest possible size; I used the inside leg, outside leg and waist measurements from my measurement sheet shelly had provided us with at the start of the project. The trousers surprisingly were almost the exact measurements matching James'. Therefore, when James put the trousers on; they were an exact fit and needed no alterations! Therefore I was pleased that I had spent time looking around at different shops among the differnt styles they offered and prices they were at in many different stores! I feel the trousers I sourced were the most appropriate considering my budget as well as style.
I felt this was overall a good fitting! The week ahead, I plan to get all my alterations completed (making use of temporary tutor suzan) in our tutor's replacement! I also plan to get my collar pieces and sleeves cut out from top fabric. The decorative elements of the shirt made up read to be applied.
This then allows me the final week to complete my lining, facings, collars (making them up), and decoration to the jacket and stitched onto the shirt. Then the last weekend; buttons can be sewn on and applied!
2nd fitting- reflective post!
Ok, so on the way about 9pm, I got a text saying that plans had changed and James could not make the fitting that would be the next day (monday 3rd) So would I be able to fit him as soon as I got there. I was aware this therefore be a late night fitting seeing as my coach didnt arrive in london until 10:20 and then I had to travel (get a train) across london to get to the flat. However, I was also aware that it was a sunday night and there would be works on the rail lines going on which may affect my route and delay it. Therefore I text back reminding James of this; to ensure he was aware that I would be a good hour longer! (Although, there was little other options at this point.. other than to do it when I got there!) When I arrived at 12, We got stright on with the fitting. Lottie volunteered to be my assistant instantly, which was a massive help and really would help to speed up the whole process! Having lottie passing pins, and as a second pair of eyes was a great help and definately did speed the process up.
Generally the fit was relatively accurate but the sleeves were a bit of an issue around the sleeve head. I pinned the sleeve in how I thought best and explained to lottie my thoughts regarding how to go about creating the correct fit. Lottie was very useful in giving a second opinion. she suggested leaving a little extra etc to what I had for a a bit of reassurance that next time James was to wear it; it would still fit! In relatinion to the fit; I found that in the 3 weeks between the two fittings, James had been working out; his chest had expanded meaning that the cf that I originally marked was inches from being able to close! I had left 5cm on the CF but this still would not be enough to close the jacket with buttons! I was very worried about this, untill lottie pointed out that on my design my jacket was not closed. When I then considered this further and fitted the shirt, I relised that the jacket would not want to be closed as this would block out the decoration of the shirt that adds the interest to the whole costume! Therefore I was reassured. However I was still a little worried as a functional jacket should still close! Lottie suggested to me if i was worried to use.... fastenings; and explained to be due to the tie that was attached to fastening it allowed extra room to fasten the jacket! It was great to hear about another option if i needed a fastening on the jacket; and therefore her knowledge was of great help!
Whilst I was marking these changes and we were discussing things; lottie noted down the alterations and any problems or things I was slightly unsure of to discuss with graham the 2nd week back (when Graham returned) and what we had done! e.g the Jacket front!
Overall the fitting went very well, and managed to get it done much quicker than the last! James was very happy and excited about the jacket sleeve decoartion which I had done on the calico in the exact same way as it will be done on my top fabric (the netting reverse applique) When I showed him the beads and told him where these were placed he was equally excited and very much approved and liked the plan of action regarding this decoration; and commented that he looked forward to seeing it finished!
Finally; the shirt; James was thrilled with this and the decorative elements; even commenting "This is immense; Can I wear it on a night out"!
I felt extremely pleased with what I had produced and now feel extremely confident about the finished looks of the jacket and shirt and the look as a whole including the sourced trousers! All garments compliment one another extremely well and are giving the look that I desired when I created this design. I feel therefore, once again pleased that I spent so long on my research as this has allowed my process to be as calm as it can be with no hickups regarding design and decorative issues so far!
Check out my following blog for the changes that I needed to make and how I planned to go about them!
Generally the fit was relatively accurate but the sleeves were a bit of an issue around the sleeve head. I pinned the sleeve in how I thought best and explained to lottie my thoughts regarding how to go about creating the correct fit. Lottie was very useful in giving a second opinion. she suggested leaving a little extra etc to what I had for a a bit of reassurance that next time James was to wear it; it would still fit! In relatinion to the fit; I found that in the 3 weeks between the two fittings, James had been working out; his chest had expanded meaning that the cf that I originally marked was inches from being able to close! I had left 5cm on the CF but this still would not be enough to close the jacket with buttons! I was very worried about this, untill lottie pointed out that on my design my jacket was not closed. When I then considered this further and fitted the shirt, I relised that the jacket would not want to be closed as this would block out the decoration of the shirt that adds the interest to the whole costume! Therefore I was reassured. However I was still a little worried as a functional jacket should still close! Lottie suggested to me if i was worried to use.... fastenings; and explained to be due to the tie that was attached to fastening it allowed extra room to fasten the jacket! It was great to hear about another option if i needed a fastening on the jacket; and therefore her knowledge was of great help!
Whilst I was marking these changes and we were discussing things; lottie noted down the alterations and any problems or things I was slightly unsure of to discuss with graham the 2nd week back (when Graham returned) and what we had done! e.g the Jacket front!
Overall the fitting went very well, and managed to get it done much quicker than the last! James was very happy and excited about the jacket sleeve decoartion which I had done on the calico in the exact same way as it will be done on my top fabric (the netting reverse applique) When I showed him the beads and told him where these were placed he was equally excited and very much approved and liked the plan of action regarding this decoration; and commented that he looked forward to seeing it finished!
Finally; the shirt; James was thrilled with this and the decorative elements; even commenting "This is immense; Can I wear it on a night out"!
I felt extremely pleased with what I had produced and now feel extremely confident about the finished looks of the jacket and shirt and the look as a whole including the sourced trousers! All garments compliment one another extremely well and are giving the look that I desired when I created this design. I feel therefore, once again pleased that I spent so long on my research as this has allowed my process to be as calm as it can be with no hickups regarding design and decorative issues so far!
Check out my following blog for the changes that I needed to make and how I planned to go about them!
Sunday, 2 May 2010
progress on my project- week starting 26/04/10- 30/04/2010
On my way to my 2nd fitting! This fitting is where the garments are generally cut out from the top fabric; although pieces such as the collar and cuffs etc do not get made from top fabric until after the 2nd fitting due to the neckline or cuff of the sleeve needing to be changed! Therefore these are made out of calico; a cheap way to get the idea of what the garment will look like in full when finished but, not wasting your fabric if they need to be changed due to changes made to the lines they attach at! The decoration that can be added should be added at this point; but this does vary from designer to designer; as this is a sheduling decision. However, if the decoration is not completed on the garment due to sheduling choice or due to it being on pieces such as the collar; it is a good idea to provide a sample so as the client can get an insight of what it will look like and can begin to visualise the piece in full! Unfortunately, for my jacket and shirt most of my decoration is on areas that I can not create out of the top fabric until after my fitting! My jacket's rhinestones and studs will be placed on the collar and the cuffs and on the sleeve of the jacket is where the reverse applique will be created. However.. i have bought to my fitting my sleeves with a sample of exactly how the decoration will be... but on the top fabric sleeve after the fitting instead! Also I have bought all of the beads and studs along with my me to the fitting for James to see and be able to visualise the final outcome better! For my shirt, I have done a sample of the pique style piece I want to add to it; but have done this out of the mock fabric that I used for my toile! Unfortunately I have not been able to create the other pleated decorational piece at the bottom of the shirt, due to having to know the fit of the shirt to then know the scale to be able to make it! However I have with me a picture of the shirt and exactly how I wish it to look and will be creating it to look! This will definately give James an idea of how it will look still!
So... the week prior to today... Has been manic! Sadly due to much of my decoration needing to be completed after my fitting, I have not been able to progress as far as other members of the group regarding this! However, I am lucky that this is the case in a sense as my beads only arrived yesterday, due to being held up in customs (one problem I need to consider next time I am ordering internationally, so I would not have been able to necessarily complete it if I was able to in time for this fitting anyway! Despite not having to worry about my beads arriving necessarily due to not needing them on my garment I still wanted them to arrive in time so that I was able to show James! Therefore, all week this was still a worry; and an even bigger worry that my rhinestones and decrational elements are my biggest expenditure of my budget (coming to £.... in total) and they could potentially not arrive due to not having used the website before and in the worst case.. they may not have been posted even and due to my budget; I could not afford the $30 postage on top of the price I was paying that provided insurance! However.. the rhinestones did turn up but not until the saturday! (10 days from my order date.) This did mean though that I am able to take them with me!
So anyway.. despite this I have been manically constructing my garments, which has not proven too difficult since they have been redrafted and I know I have spent a good amount of time the 1st week and the early part of this past week redrafting the sleeves and conducting my alterations; double checking my measurements in the process. Still, I feel a little mervous about my fitting and the jacket or shirt not fitting James (being too small now!) This was another element which is just relating to trusting my abilities and relating to my confidence! This is something that I control when conducting a fitting to be professional but would help myself if I prior to my fitting I managed to control it; so as I was sewing in a more calm conducted way!
I am due to get in to london at 10.20 and conduct my fitting tomorrow (monday in the morning) So I will write up how things went mid week!
So... the week prior to today... Has been manic! Sadly due to much of my decoration needing to be completed after my fitting, I have not been able to progress as far as other members of the group regarding this! However, I am lucky that this is the case in a sense as my beads only arrived yesterday, due to being held up in customs (one problem I need to consider next time I am ordering internationally, so I would not have been able to necessarily complete it if I was able to in time for this fitting anyway! Despite not having to worry about my beads arriving necessarily due to not needing them on my garment I still wanted them to arrive in time so that I was able to show James! Therefore, all week this was still a worry; and an even bigger worry that my rhinestones and decrational elements are my biggest expenditure of my budget (coming to £.... in total) and they could potentially not arrive due to not having used the website before and in the worst case.. they may not have been posted even and due to my budget; I could not afford the $30 postage on top of the price I was paying that provided insurance! However.. the rhinestones did turn up but not until the saturday! (10 days from my order date.) This did mean though that I am able to take them with me!
So anyway.. despite this I have been manically constructing my garments, which has not proven too difficult since they have been redrafted and I know I have spent a good amount of time the 1st week and the early part of this past week redrafting the sleeves and conducting my alterations; double checking my measurements in the process. Still, I feel a little mervous about my fitting and the jacket or shirt not fitting James (being too small now!) This was another element which is just relating to trusting my abilities and relating to my confidence! This is something that I control when conducting a fitting to be professional but would help myself if I prior to my fitting I managed to control it; so as I was sewing in a more calm conducted way!
I am due to get in to london at 10.20 and conduct my fitting tomorrow (monday in the morning) So I will write up how things went mid week!
Tuesday, 27 April 2010
key considerations the week of monday 12th april- friday 16th!
This week was pretty manic as I knew I had to order my rhinestone crystals for the jacket collar and added fabric that I plan to use for the reverse applique to go underneath my top fabric and be stitched around asap so as they would arrive in time to be able to apply to james' costume before the fitting! However, Price was something I needed to consider; I knew these would not be cheap; but i knew buying them ion bulk as I wished to do would make it much cheaper and generally buying internationally; the rhinestones would be cheaper to! (However I would have to consider the postage and packaging price on top of the cost of the decorative materials/ components too!) Therefore I spent a lot of time this week scanning the internet for the best price for what I wanted. The preknitted knitted thin wire that I would be using for the reverse applique I found very easily and was very reasonably priced with free shipping included too! The website offered a variety of colours; however I was satisfied and sure the colour i had picked could not change that much from the colour I saw it as on screen! I therefore checked the refund policy; which was not so cost considerate; however I did not feel worried that the wire would be wrong!
However, When ordering the beads, I came across many different types that I had not seen before and would be very appropriate but due to me combining 2 different size of bead and colour for the collar, I needed to consider this when ordering them. I needed to make sure that the style would compliment one another and the colours would! This made it a very long and hard decision as I could not see them to compare them visually as they were, instead seeing them flat and putting the square of colour palette next to one another; i had to come to a decision! This worried me a little bit as the rhinestones would be costing more than the fabric and as this seller was an international seller, as was the seller of the other option of rhinestone i liked; it would be a reasonable amount of time for them to be devivered anyway and i did not feel i would have time to send them back if they didnt go; and reorder the others; plus this would be added, careless waste of my budget!
I decided to email the two sellers and check the swarovski rhinestones listed as the swarvski size and colour were actually the size and shape and colour which they are on the official swarovski cystal websight page! This was useful for me to do, as this i had a chart for at hand from having bought these crystals already! This would provide me with more confidence with my decision!
Having recieved confirmation from the first seller; which was the seller of one of the swarovski cystal packs I definately was set on buying... I therefore decided that as she had emailed me back so quickly and verified that they were the same as the swarovski crystal rhinestone chart.. i decided it would be best to order the two packs of crystals together! This helped me to confirm my decision! I ordered these crystals after much deliberation on the thursday morning, i knew I would have to allow and week at least as were from an website from outside of europe! I hoped I had not left it too late for these to arrive and apply to James' jacket for the 2nd fitting! I was however lucky, as where I had designed for these to go; on the collar and the cuff, I would not necessarily have to apply these before I had made up my jacket! Equally, I would not apply the ones on the cuff, until I have double checked at the 2nd fitting on the 3rd May the length of the sleeve! Added to this, I could not do the ones on the cuff of the jacket as Graham (our tutor) had advised in our previous tutorial that following redrafting our sleeve pattern to accomodate the new changes to the jacket from fitting 1, we should cut the sleeves again from calico and use the calico sleeves for the 2nd fitting. Then after the 2nd fitting and checking our sleeve pattern redrafted was ok and fitted; we would cut them out from top fabric then at this point!
The rest of this week was spent redrafting my patterns and adapting them as I mentiond in my previous post; tutorial with graham!
However, When ordering the beads, I came across many different types that I had not seen before and would be very appropriate but due to me combining 2 different size of bead and colour for the collar, I needed to consider this when ordering them. I needed to make sure that the style would compliment one another and the colours would! This made it a very long and hard decision as I could not see them to compare them visually as they were, instead seeing them flat and putting the square of colour palette next to one another; i had to come to a decision! This worried me a little bit as the rhinestones would be costing more than the fabric and as this seller was an international seller, as was the seller of the other option of rhinestone i liked; it would be a reasonable amount of time for them to be devivered anyway and i did not feel i would have time to send them back if they didnt go; and reorder the others; plus this would be added, careless waste of my budget!
I decided to email the two sellers and check the swarovski rhinestones listed as the swarvski size and colour were actually the size and shape and colour which they are on the official swarovski cystal websight page! This was useful for me to do, as this i had a chart for at hand from having bought these crystals already! This would provide me with more confidence with my decision!
Having recieved confirmation from the first seller; which was the seller of one of the swarovski cystal packs I definately was set on buying... I therefore decided that as she had emailed me back so quickly and verified that they were the same as the swarovski crystal rhinestone chart.. i decided it would be best to order the two packs of crystals together! This helped me to confirm my decision! I ordered these crystals after much deliberation on the thursday morning, i knew I would have to allow and week at least as were from an website from outside of europe! I hoped I had not left it too late for these to arrive and apply to James' jacket for the 2nd fitting! I was however lucky, as where I had designed for these to go; on the collar and the cuff, I would not necessarily have to apply these before I had made up my jacket! Equally, I would not apply the ones on the cuff, until I have double checked at the 2nd fitting on the 3rd May the length of the sleeve! Added to this, I could not do the ones on the cuff of the jacket as Graham (our tutor) had advised in our previous tutorial that following redrafting our sleeve pattern to accomodate the new changes to the jacket from fitting 1, we should cut the sleeves again from calico and use the calico sleeves for the 2nd fitting. Then after the 2nd fitting and checking our sleeve pattern redrafted was ok and fitted; we would cut them out from top fabric then at this point!
The rest of this week was spent redrafting my patterns and adapting them as I mentiond in my previous post; tutorial with graham!
turorial with graham; reflective post!
I feel my tutor's tutorial very useful, as I was unsure how to go about my adaptations. What is interesting from completing this project is I am gradually throughout conducting the whole process from research to design to initial toile construction, apaptation to fitting, top fabric construction to adaptation and refitting; finding out the areas I am confident in my skills and the areas i still doubt and need more assiatnce with. This is extremely useful as will allow me to work on these skills perhaps hopefully over my summer in perparation for level 6 of the course; a much more independent working year! Equally by establishing what I am less confident in I can create question and try to research and find the answers to be able to gain more confidence that I know how to go about the issue.
So far in the project I have felt reasonably comfortable with how to go about the above elements of this project in a correct, professional manner. Although, the fittings I have felt more comfortable with a second opinion certifying my actions and decisions, I have felt a real sense of achievement and confidence in my technical abiulity in this area and professional judgements about how to take in the garments and where is appropriate! However, one area I did not feel so confident in, was how to go about translating the adaptations I had been so confident with to make new pattern pieces to ensure the fit of my top fabric toile, when constructed. I really felt Graham's explanation of taking one side appart once it has been fully marked and cutting the pieces to the correct size (cutting off the Seam Allowances) and using the fabric pieces as pattern pieces to place ontot he top fabric and then adding the seam allowances (as you would with paper patterns) was a clear, accurate and easy way to translate the changes! This Graham (tutor) explained can be used for many garments, and ensures a good amount of accuracy especially for tailors! This is a technique I will definately remember and use for my adaptations in the future!
I realise however, there are other methods of doing this still!
For the skirt, this could be recreated once the jacket bottom had been adapted to the correct fit. We would then simply measure the jacket bottom to create the top of the skirt and measure the jacket length from the back piece (which did still have the skirt attached) from the dropped waist to match the front skirt length. The cf line of the skirt is a design line and therefore was our decision how curved we wished to make this.
Graham's sleeve tutorial was equally very useful and presented me with another way of completing a sleeve pattern and gaianing a more accurate fitting due to all the measurements fully considered and correctly implemented! Although the process was not that different to how I completed my sleeve originally; although measuring the over arm sleeve head line and the under edge sleeve head line to correctly fit and knowing the ease to add in; is very useful to know for my future construction practice.
Graham in this session explained to us what he would have completed and finished for the final fitting and what fabric to do it from etc.
He suggested we still completed out redrafted sleeves from calico; to ensure the correct fit before cutting them out and wasting top fabric.
He advised we either tacked these into our jackets (created out of top fabric and finished correctly including the implentation of the hair canvases, shoulder canvas and breast felt) or used a very long stitch on the sewing machine. We were instructed, even during our fittings, to not cut down the seam allowances until we were completing our adaptations and he had seen how our fittings went and the adaptations that were needed. (often tailors do not cut the seams down until just before the lining is put in anyway!)
He advised any decoration that was not around the seam lines or style lines such as the CF and cuffs, and collar, was completed for the fitting! If this could not be done due to the decoration being around these areas; complete a sample to show our band member; allowing them to gain a visualisation of how it would look when completed. This was advised by him to be done, as the distance limited them seeing the progress of the construction as regularly as it would be seen perhaps in industry if a designer was making for a client. Equally bring along to the fitting any buttons or rhinestones etc to show and place thwem where they would be going. By showing the clients these decorational features; this allows them to speak out and discuss changes or factors they did not like, before it had been fully completed and could not be changed. This equally allowed for further positive development of our jackets and a prime opportunity for communication with our band members!
Finally he reminded us to plan out our time after the fitting; regarding what we anticipated to have to still complete in the following 2 weeks so as we did not overlook any elements!
Overall; Graham's tutorial made me feel much more confident about how to complete the weeks schedule regarding the changes and making up my jacket from top fabric. It overly made me feel more confident about the second fitting too; as Graham pointed out that due to the way we were completing the adaptations; there should be few the second time; perhaps only with the sleeves!
This gave me confidence that after the 2nd fitting, I would not feel there was too much to complete in time for deadline 2 weeks after we got back from the fitting!
So far in the project I have felt reasonably comfortable with how to go about the above elements of this project in a correct, professional manner. Although, the fittings I have felt more comfortable with a second opinion certifying my actions and decisions, I have felt a real sense of achievement and confidence in my technical abiulity in this area and professional judgements about how to take in the garments and where is appropriate! However, one area I did not feel so confident in, was how to go about translating the adaptations I had been so confident with to make new pattern pieces to ensure the fit of my top fabric toile, when constructed. I really felt Graham's explanation of taking one side appart once it has been fully marked and cutting the pieces to the correct size (cutting off the Seam Allowances) and using the fabric pieces as pattern pieces to place ontot he top fabric and then adding the seam allowances (as you would with paper patterns) was a clear, accurate and easy way to translate the changes! This Graham (tutor) explained can be used for many garments, and ensures a good amount of accuracy especially for tailors! This is a technique I will definately remember and use for my adaptations in the future!
I realise however, there are other methods of doing this still!
For the skirt, this could be recreated once the jacket bottom had been adapted to the correct fit. We would then simply measure the jacket bottom to create the top of the skirt and measure the jacket length from the back piece (which did still have the skirt attached) from the dropped waist to match the front skirt length. The cf line of the skirt is a design line and therefore was our decision how curved we wished to make this.
Graham's sleeve tutorial was equally very useful and presented me with another way of completing a sleeve pattern and gaianing a more accurate fitting due to all the measurements fully considered and correctly implemented! Although the process was not that different to how I completed my sleeve originally; although measuring the over arm sleeve head line and the under edge sleeve head line to correctly fit and knowing the ease to add in; is very useful to know for my future construction practice.
Graham in this session explained to us what he would have completed and finished for the final fitting and what fabric to do it from etc.
He suggested we still completed out redrafted sleeves from calico; to ensure the correct fit before cutting them out and wasting top fabric.
He advised we either tacked these into our jackets (created out of top fabric and finished correctly including the implentation of the hair canvases, shoulder canvas and breast felt) or used a very long stitch on the sewing machine. We were instructed, even during our fittings, to not cut down the seam allowances until we were completing our adaptations and he had seen how our fittings went and the adaptations that were needed. (often tailors do not cut the seams down until just before the lining is put in anyway!)
He advised any decoration that was not around the seam lines or style lines such as the CF and cuffs, and collar, was completed for the fitting! If this could not be done due to the decoration being around these areas; complete a sample to show our band member; allowing them to gain a visualisation of how it would look when completed. This was advised by him to be done, as the distance limited them seeing the progress of the construction as regularly as it would be seen perhaps in industry if a designer was making for a client. Equally bring along to the fitting any buttons or rhinestones etc to show and place thwem where they would be going. By showing the clients these decorational features; this allows them to speak out and discuss changes or factors they did not like, before it had been fully completed and could not be changed. This equally allowed for further positive development of our jackets and a prime opportunity for communication with our band members!
Finally he reminded us to plan out our time after the fitting; regarding what we anticipated to have to still complete in the following 2 weeks so as we did not overlook any elements!
Overall; Graham's tutorial made me feel much more confident about how to complete the weeks schedule regarding the changes and making up my jacket from top fabric. It overly made me feel more confident about the second fitting too; as Graham pointed out that due to the way we were completing the adaptations; there should be few the second time; perhaps only with the sleeves!
This gave me confidence that after the 2nd fitting, I would not feel there was too much to complete in time for deadline 2 weeks after we got back from the fitting!
Wednesday, 21 April 2010
tutorial with graham; technical elements
We met as a group with our tutor, when we were back from easter on the 14/04/2010. As our tutor had not seen out coats, he asked us if we could put them all on the manequins ready for him to look at! Through doing this he was able to study the shapes of them and what alterations we had planned through our pinning and chalked lines on our toiles! He went through each of ours one by one, but the things that he commented on were handy for all of the group to listen to as some of it could be applied to all of our coats! He liked the way that the coats were all slightly different and complimented us for the stage we had got to; produced a first toile of our coats and trousers.. or for me.. shirt! (Although... this tutorial he was only looking at our coats!)
We showed him the photos from the fittings for each of our coats. For my coat, I agreed that pattern was made with a little bit too much allowance; however my tutor commented; it is always better for a toile to be too big than too small! He was concerned in one of the photos that the back side seam was not vertically running down to the bottom as the others did and instead was running a little diagionallyl however, from looking at my toile, he realised this was not the case and I had ensured it ran paralell vertical to the others!!
He advised that to add interest and to ensure the shape was fully historical, I inserted an opening at the back; the diagram attached shows what this is! This was not hard to do, it just meant adding a step onto the back seam of my jacket pattern! He also suggested that I moved the side- back seam closer toward the centre back to lessen the amount of fabric at the waist between the CB seam and the side back seam. This does not mean however taking any actual fabric out of the shape, as this would alter the fit; but simply moving the seam line. I did this by drawing it onto my toile where it should sit; closer to the centre back seam!
Graham then showed us how to deconstruct our toiles to be able to transfer the alterations into our pattern blocks and then create new pattern pieces to use for cutting out our top fabric, or to be able to the toile disassembled pieces to cut out the top fabric from!#
He noted; start by cutting down the centre back and discarding the side of the toile that you have not done your alterations on! #
Next we disassembled the seams of the jacket once you have ensure that they have been marked on both sewing sides. For me.. this applied to all the pother seam except my side back seam; instead of cutting down the seamline which i had taken it in at, I needed to now, cut down the new line i had marked; this was now my new side back seam line despite the pins in the old side back seam taking it in!
after this, we ironed our jacket pieces flat, so as when cutting down the altered lines, we had the most accurate shape possible! Before cutting down your marked lines, ensure they are all creating smooth curved lines; if not.. ensure they do... then cut along them (the small excess can binned) Note: We now had to remember that the new pieces created from our alterations in this session had no seam allowance now, and therefore when placing them onto our top fabric; to remember to add the correct seam allowances!
Graham (out tutor) also told us to, before pinning our pieces to our fabric, and adding on our seam allowances to consider the fact that for our fittings we only used calico fabric; which is very very thin in comparison to our jacket fabrics! (even though mine was thin; due to consideration of heat, it was no where near this fineness of the calico!) Therefore he advised when we were drawing around the our new fabric pattern pieces onto the top fabric, we added a 1/4 cm allowance on the backseam and side seam; (he said it was not necessary to add this to the side back seam too, as we didnt want to make it too big again and have to re fit it again!)
Graham noted that the 2nd fitting should be minor alterations (amount taken in if any) and very little to the fit should need doing; adding this allowance on should not alter the fit, but should allow for the extra thickness of the jacket fabric and hair canvas, breast felt, and shoulder caanvas that would be added into it to support it!
We finished by instructing us all to remember to measure down the side back and side seams and check the measurements were still the same; meaning that they would go successfully back together again! If not.. he advised we draw the curves to be slightly more or slightly less convex/concave to correct this as they should have only altered by a fraction! cut these pieces once again out of calico or from paper to accomodate the changes; and use these new pieces to pin onto you top fabric and cutout from!
Graham then in the afternoon went on to do a sleeve tutorial. He gave us a handout for this and went through it with us; answering and clarifying any questions we had!
See tutorial reflection for my thoughts and smaller discussions we had regarding the next fitting!
We showed him the photos from the fittings for each of our coats. For my coat, I agreed that pattern was made with a little bit too much allowance; however my tutor commented; it is always better for a toile to be too big than too small! He was concerned in one of the photos that the back side seam was not vertically running down to the bottom as the others did and instead was running a little diagionallyl however, from looking at my toile, he realised this was not the case and I had ensured it ran paralell vertical to the others!!
He advised that to add interest and to ensure the shape was fully historical, I inserted an opening at the back; the diagram attached shows what this is! This was not hard to do, it just meant adding a step onto the back seam of my jacket pattern! He also suggested that I moved the side- back seam closer toward the centre back to lessen the amount of fabric at the waist between the CB seam and the side back seam. This does not mean however taking any actual fabric out of the shape, as this would alter the fit; but simply moving the seam line. I did this by drawing it onto my toile where it should sit; closer to the centre back seam!
Graham then showed us how to deconstruct our toiles to be able to transfer the alterations into our pattern blocks and then create new pattern pieces to use for cutting out our top fabric, or to be able to the toile disassembled pieces to cut out the top fabric from!#
He noted; start by cutting down the centre back and discarding the side of the toile that you have not done your alterations on! #
Next we disassembled the seams of the jacket once you have ensure that they have been marked on both sewing sides. For me.. this applied to all the pother seam except my side back seam; instead of cutting down the seamline which i had taken it in at, I needed to now, cut down the new line i had marked; this was now my new side back seam line despite the pins in the old side back seam taking it in!
after this, we ironed our jacket pieces flat, so as when cutting down the altered lines, we had the most accurate shape possible! Before cutting down your marked lines, ensure they are all creating smooth curved lines; if not.. ensure they do... then cut along them (the small excess can binned) Note: We now had to remember that the new pieces created from our alterations in this session had no seam allowance now, and therefore when placing them onto our top fabric; to remember to add the correct seam allowances!
Graham (out tutor) also told us to, before pinning our pieces to our fabric, and adding on our seam allowances to consider the fact that for our fittings we only used calico fabric; which is very very thin in comparison to our jacket fabrics! (even though mine was thin; due to consideration of heat, it was no where near this fineness of the calico!) Therefore he advised when we were drawing around the our new fabric pattern pieces onto the top fabric, we added a 1/4 cm allowance on the backseam and side seam; (he said it was not necessary to add this to the side back seam too, as we didnt want to make it too big again and have to re fit it again!)
Graham noted that the 2nd fitting should be minor alterations (amount taken in if any) and very little to the fit should need doing; adding this allowance on should not alter the fit, but should allow for the extra thickness of the jacket fabric and hair canvas, breast felt, and shoulder caanvas that would be added into it to support it!
We finished by instructing us all to remember to measure down the side back and side seams and check the measurements were still the same; meaning that they would go successfully back together again! If not.. he advised we draw the curves to be slightly more or slightly less convex/concave to correct this as they should have only altered by a fraction! cut these pieces once again out of calico or from paper to accomodate the changes; and use these new pieces to pin onto you top fabric and cutout from!
Graham then in the afternoon went on to do a sleeve tutorial. He gave us a handout for this and went through it with us; answering and clarifying any questions we had!
See tutorial reflection for my thoughts and smaller discussions we had regarding the next fitting!
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