Monday 17 May 2010
Link to band Facebook Group
For conversations with the band and discussions about the project, collaborations within the group and research into the band. Also pictures from my first fitting with James,
click here
click here
Friday 14 May 2010
reflection on 14/05/2010 plan for weekend before Hand in!
Ok so having got my jacket lining into place ready a day later to what I hoped, I propose that;
Saturday I will complete my jacket sleeves and get them sewn in! I will then therefore decoarte the cuffs with the studs and gems and allow them time therefore to dry!
Saturday evening; I will complete my collar and once again get my decoration on so as it can dry saturday night and even into sunday!
Sunday: I propose to sew in my shirt sleeves in; finish the outside edges of this and top stitch on my pique and lower decorational piece.
Sunday late afternoon: I will sew on my jacket collar and sew on my shirt collar ready.
Sunday evening will order my pattern file ready for hand in and will complete my last blog to you; My 750 word evaluation relfecting on all elements of the project and the very valuable things regarding what I have learnt!!
If I follow this plan I should be complete and ready for my hand in!! Lets hope there are no problems which result in extra time allowance and then put back my schedule; as you can clearly see there really no time to reschedule things; I am working to a very tight time schedule!
This is not something I hope to be doing in my next year in level 6; However on a different note is something that I am sure commonly happens in the music artist costume industry!
Speak to you sunday night!!
Saturday I will complete my jacket sleeves and get them sewn in! I will then therefore decoarte the cuffs with the studs and gems and allow them time therefore to dry!
Saturday evening; I will complete my collar and once again get my decoration on so as it can dry saturday night and even into sunday!
Sunday: I propose to sew in my shirt sleeves in; finish the outside edges of this and top stitch on my pique and lower decorational piece.
Sunday late afternoon: I will sew on my jacket collar and sew on my shirt collar ready.
Sunday evening will order my pattern file ready for hand in and will complete my last blog to you; My 750 word evaluation relfecting on all elements of the project and the very valuable things regarding what I have learnt!!
If I follow this plan I should be complete and ready for my hand in!! Lets hope there are no problems which result in extra time allowance and then put back my schedule; as you can clearly see there really no time to reschedule things; I am working to a very tight time schedule!
This is not something I hope to be doing in my next year in level 6; However on a different note is something that I am sure commonly happens in the music artist costume industry!
Speak to you sunday night!!
reflection of 14/05/2010 tasks and reflection on planned schedule for week!
Ok so first things first, I am feeling a little stressed out; Thursday morning I discovered we had a meeting about our hand in(for monday) in the morning.This therefore took time away from my lining tutorial and meant that I would be set abck a little with the proceedures of my lining. Equally stress has arison due to tuesday and part of wednesday and most of thursday where my tutor was not available and therefore holding me back on my planned timed schedule that was organised to enable completion of my garments in a good time schedule allowing time for problems and dilemnas that may eruot to be solved. However; due to these two days and thursday I was feeling the stress as there was now no time for errors or problems to occur and I would be needing to work at a fast pace but still maintaining accuraacy so as problems did not occur! I feel unfortunately my plan of action has had to be suspended and rearranged which is then hard to adjust to! However i realise I must realise that this is all something that an industry professional would have to face (reorganising their time constantly, rescheduling and reassing) but also in relation to the bands or music artist's schedule too! This illustrates how time management through organision skills are very important aspects of this job in industry! At least I am practicing this; by facing these dilemnas!!!
So enough constructive reflection on my thought regarding the problems surrounding my project and my shedule.. yesterday afternoon at 5pm I did manage to grab my tutor to advise me on what I could do that evening to continue my lining so as I could get that done by tomorrow (despite planning to have the sleeves done and put in by tomorrow originally which would now not happen!!) He advised me to iron all of my seams on my jacket perfectly and press them toward the back of the jacket or in the case of the bottom skirt edge and the waistline edges press them up toward the neckline. However the back seams pressed open and flat! Then I would herringbone stitch these done into place; not going through to the front of the jacket (so as the stitch was not evident from the front) to hold them in place; this would help ensure the accuracy of my garment's lining and end success!! (My ultimate aim!)
Therefore I took this on board and completed this ready for the next morning so as I could be in a position friday to finish my lining!
Friday (today) came and went like every other day has this week! I did however manage to almost complete my lining in class til 4pm but went home and finished my slip stitching. Also tonight I have began to prepare my collar by basting the callar canvas to my shirt collar and my jacket collar and machine stitching the top line!
Today, has been a vigourously manic day and I am still feeling the stress as I have not managed to complete my sleeves as of yet! This is something that I do not wish to rush! Therefore I must remeber to keep the accuracy when completing these over the weekend!
So enough constructive reflection on my thought regarding the problems surrounding my project and my shedule.. yesterday afternoon at 5pm I did manage to grab my tutor to advise me on what I could do that evening to continue my lining so as I could get that done by tomorrow (despite planning to have the sleeves done and put in by tomorrow originally which would now not happen!!) He advised me to iron all of my seams on my jacket perfectly and press them toward the back of the jacket or in the case of the bottom skirt edge and the waistline edges press them up toward the neckline. However the back seams pressed open and flat! Then I would herringbone stitch these done into place; not going through to the front of the jacket (so as the stitch was not evident from the front) to hold them in place; this would help ensure the accuracy of my garment's lining and end success!! (My ultimate aim!)
Therefore I took this on board and completed this ready for the next morning so as I could be in a position friday to finish my lining!
Friday (today) came and went like every other day has this week! I did however manage to almost complete my lining in class til 4pm but went home and finished my slip stitching. Also tonight I have began to prepare my collar by basting the callar canvas to my shirt collar and my jacket collar and machine stitching the top line!
Today, has been a vigourously manic day and I am still feeling the stress as I have not managed to complete my sleeves as of yet! This is something that I do not wish to rush! Therefore I must remeber to keep the accuracy when completing these over the weekend!
Wednesday 12 May 2010
reflection of lining turorial 12/05/2010
First thing in the morning I grabbed my tutor to ensure I could get my queries answered; so that I would be able to continue with my schedule and catch up on it from the less productive day yesterday! My tutor did answer my queries, however regarding the shirt; simply agreed with the option I have come up with, or said that he wouldnt particularly even worry about making the seams this neat and would simply just overlock them. This option I was not satisfied with as it would not give me the lovelyt finish that I wanted; therefore I decided he had approved my suggestion regarding rollign the seams in and then top stitching them together; so I would complete the seams of my shirt this way giving the best finish I could under the circumstances.
Regarding the sleeves of my Jacket and how to line these; he said that this would be a trail and error situation and would advise I tried it the way I thought to; but if this didnt work, I would have to look into other options! He noted that there was not necessarily a right way to do this; it was more of a decision that would come from me about what worked best!
The colalr he advised I studded and decorated after I had made it up! This above advice could now help me to proceed with my garments!
Ok so today I was to be finishing learning how to line my jacket. However... due to being set back by yesterdays fustrations I was only beginning the lining process!!!
When our tutor began the tutorial, he called us over as a group to discuss the linings. I did not feel that at this point in time; this was the best way to explain it; as we were all at different stages. Two members of the group had decided on tuesday (day before) to plough on; use their initiative as our tutor was not available on the tuesday, and find out from two other students making similar 19th century style coats; how they put their linings in and follow this process. I chose yesterday not to do this, as I prefer to be assured about the process being the correct way and ensuring I am not missing out any bital steps! They performed putting in the lining the bagging out way! However, when out tutor was conducting our group tutorial he was worried to see this was the way it had been done and hence why they were having a number of issues with the fit of the lining into the garment! This was very interesting to see; as it was the example of how if something has been tailored throughout; the same degree of care and attention goes into the lining and there is no quick processes within a tailored garment! He explained how much of the lining in the coats is hand sewing (slip stitched) along with a very careful smoothing out technique! What is interesting also about the tailored way of lining a garment is it is done from as flat as possible. (This meant me undoing my shoukder seams) Therefore; this was one highlighted error or the girls implementation of their linings as they had attemoted to put it in with the garment fully sewn together and the sleeves sewn in place! Therefore for them; they not only had to remove their linings but unpick their sleeves from their garment as well as their shoulder seams too!
An interesting learning point for me (who had not began my lining; hence I would do it the correct way from start to finish) was the first thing to be done; concentrating on the front; the front lining and front facing are created separately and sewn in spearately to the rest of the lining. The front is always completed first on a tailored garment! After this, you move onto the sides and backs; where the lining is sewn together before being put in and then smoothed in and slip stiched to the side of the front lining. Then, the skirts are placed in, smoothed to ensure a perfect fit , basted down as all of the pieces are when they have been smoothed into the correct place and put in and then slip stitched into place.
A tip to avoid bulkiness in your lining; (which is not ever a tailor's way) is to cut down all the canvases to the sewing line before putting your lining in place also cut your pieces with just enough lining to fold under to slip stitch over to attach it in place.
The last thing that goes onto the jacket, eve after the sleeves is the collar!
These tips are very valuable and should help me to gain accuracy in the future next year with my projects! This will help me to work more independently on this part of my garment as I did not feel at all comfotable this time around without the help and tuition from my tutor for this part of the jacket!
Today..i only got done the front lining and facing and cutting down all of my seams and canvases! However I aim to continue tomorrow!
Regarding the sleeves of my Jacket and how to line these; he said that this would be a trail and error situation and would advise I tried it the way I thought to; but if this didnt work, I would have to look into other options! He noted that there was not necessarily a right way to do this; it was more of a decision that would come from me about what worked best!
The colalr he advised I studded and decorated after I had made it up! This above advice could now help me to proceed with my garments!
Ok so today I was to be finishing learning how to line my jacket. However... due to being set back by yesterdays fustrations I was only beginning the lining process!!!
When our tutor began the tutorial, he called us over as a group to discuss the linings. I did not feel that at this point in time; this was the best way to explain it; as we were all at different stages. Two members of the group had decided on tuesday (day before) to plough on; use their initiative as our tutor was not available on the tuesday, and find out from two other students making similar 19th century style coats; how they put their linings in and follow this process. I chose yesterday not to do this, as I prefer to be assured about the process being the correct way and ensuring I am not missing out any bital steps! They performed putting in the lining the bagging out way! However, when out tutor was conducting our group tutorial he was worried to see this was the way it had been done and hence why they were having a number of issues with the fit of the lining into the garment! This was very interesting to see; as it was the example of how if something has been tailored throughout; the same degree of care and attention goes into the lining and there is no quick processes within a tailored garment! He explained how much of the lining in the coats is hand sewing (slip stitched) along with a very careful smoothing out technique! What is interesting also about the tailored way of lining a garment is it is done from as flat as possible. (This meant me undoing my shoukder seams) Therefore; this was one highlighted error or the girls implementation of their linings as they had attemoted to put it in with the garment fully sewn together and the sleeves sewn in place! Therefore for them; they not only had to remove their linings but unpick their sleeves from their garment as well as their shoulder seams too!
An interesting learning point for me (who had not began my lining; hence I would do it the correct way from start to finish) was the first thing to be done; concentrating on the front; the front lining and front facing are created separately and sewn in spearately to the rest of the lining. The front is always completed first on a tailored garment! After this, you move onto the sides and backs; where the lining is sewn together before being put in and then smoothed in and slip stiched to the side of the front lining. Then, the skirts are placed in, smoothed to ensure a perfect fit , basted down as all of the pieces are when they have been smoothed into the correct place and put in and then slip stitched into place.
A tip to avoid bulkiness in your lining; (which is not ever a tailor's way) is to cut down all the canvases to the sewing line before putting your lining in place also cut your pieces with just enough lining to fold under to slip stitch over to attach it in place.
The last thing that goes onto the jacket, eve after the sleeves is the collar!
These tips are very valuable and should help me to gain accuracy in the future next year with my projects! This will help me to work more independently on this part of my garment as I did not feel at all comfotable this time around without the help and tuition from my tutor for this part of the jacket!
Today..i only got done the front lining and facing and cutting down all of my seams and canvases! However I aim to continue tomorrow!
Tuesday 11 May 2010
reflection on shedule and day 11/05/2010
Today was a day of major fustration! Due to having finished my cuffs and piques, I had planned to begin creating my lining or fing out how my collars went together with the camvas on. I asked to see my tutor to be able to begin this. A brief appointment was arranged, however, due to other unforseen circumstances, my tutor was not able to attend. I did not want to go about it by guessing how it should be done due to knowing that it was a tailored garment and I had only created untailored costumes; using the bagging out lining process.. incase there was a large variation in a tailored lined garment and this method!
.. however, unfortunetly the other things that I needed to do; there were elements relating to the taliored way (correct way) that i needed to check with my tutor about. For example
when considering the sleeves lining; I realised I needed to consider that the lining would be seen behind the knitted wire pattern. My orginal aim of putting the knitted wire pattern there was as decorational interest but equally so that the cream of the shirt wouls contrat against the copper colour of the wire; or so that the skin would be seen behind! Therefore, lining the whole sleeve under the pattern would defeat the initial object of the patterning! Therefore, I wanted to ask graham if he would line the sleeve with maybe a poernet type fabric to still achieve the skin colour through or if the best option was to cut the pattern out from the lining too!
also... the shirt; due to having to fit the shirt and not at this point thinking about how I was going to finish the sleeves, i sewed the shirt with normal seams. Today having researched how a tailored high fashion/ couture shirt's seams were finished.. It seemed to be suggested by the website www. threadmagazine.com/itme/3702/seam-finishes-for-silks they were created with french seams!
I wanted this confirmed so found a couture shirt company 'A.G.Bespoke Couture' and emailed the company asking about their shirt finishes; in particular inside seam finishes to gain accuracy! I recieved an email back that night from the manager stating: "Our shirts are hand made in italy with french seams, and hand sewn buttons. The fabric collection changes each season which incorporates new colours and shades introduced by latest creation of the fabric designers. The chosen item will always be absolutely exclusive, with the perfect fit and lasting comfort. We believe in investing time to achieve excellence!"
This was of great help to me and established that in order to gain a beautiful finish I would need to spend time on every aspect and stitch!
This however, was a problem as a french seam is sewn wrong sides together and then rolled in to hide the raw edge and then stitched down over the top of the original stitchline. unless I was to unpick my shirt seams and redo them all this way; I would have to discuss the other options and best tailored option with my tutor for the finish of my shirt seams. I therefore thought I would use this time wisely; seeing as my tutor wasnt available, to think of the options I could suggest to him; I considered:
Rolling both edges of the seam in and overlocking these edges,
or
double rolling both seams in (once and then over again) and then placing then together as one and then top stitching down the very edge. This would require patience and extreme care and attanetion as well as time; but in order to gain the closet to a french seam and the most attractive finish: this is the option I thought was the best!
In relation to comming up with a solution for my sleeves; I considered;
Lining the sleeves with perhaps a very thin (almost see through) skin coloured fabric
or
placing the pattern on the same place as the top fabric sleeve; cutting them both out and completing the knitted wire applique through the top fabric sleeves and the lining fabric sleeve!
I was extremely fustrated by my day as I had reached a stand still and would not be able to contibue until my tutorial the following morning. This meant that i used the rest of the afternoon to create and re jiggle my plans for the week or how I could and would catch catch up on my schedule so as i was not behind!!!
~I realise however that this is something a professional in this industry would face a lot due to the artists/bands tight schedule and therefore there is a definate need for good organisation
and time scheduling as well as flexibilty and composed mannorism.
.. however, unfortunetly the other things that I needed to do; there were elements relating to the taliored way (correct way) that i needed to check with my tutor about. For example
when considering the sleeves lining; I realised I needed to consider that the lining would be seen behind the knitted wire pattern. My orginal aim of putting the knitted wire pattern there was as decorational interest but equally so that the cream of the shirt wouls contrat against the copper colour of the wire; or so that the skin would be seen behind! Therefore, lining the whole sleeve under the pattern would defeat the initial object of the patterning! Therefore, I wanted to ask graham if he would line the sleeve with maybe a poernet type fabric to still achieve the skin colour through or if the best option was to cut the pattern out from the lining too!
also... the shirt; due to having to fit the shirt and not at this point thinking about how I was going to finish the sleeves, i sewed the shirt with normal seams. Today having researched how a tailored high fashion/ couture shirt's seams were finished.. It seemed to be suggested by the website www. threadmagazine.com/itme/3702/seam-finishes-for-silks they were created with french seams!
I wanted this confirmed so found a couture shirt company 'A.G.Bespoke Couture' and emailed the company asking about their shirt finishes; in particular inside seam finishes to gain accuracy! I recieved an email back that night from the manager stating: "Our shirts are hand made in italy with french seams, and hand sewn buttons. The fabric collection changes each season which incorporates new colours and shades introduced by latest creation of the fabric designers. The chosen item will always be absolutely exclusive, with the perfect fit and lasting comfort. We believe in investing time to achieve excellence!"
This was of great help to me and established that in order to gain a beautiful finish I would need to spend time on every aspect and stitch!
This however, was a problem as a french seam is sewn wrong sides together and then rolled in to hide the raw edge and then stitched down over the top of the original stitchline. unless I was to unpick my shirt seams and redo them all this way; I would have to discuss the other options and best tailored option with my tutor for the finish of my shirt seams. I therefore thought I would use this time wisely; seeing as my tutor wasnt available, to think of the options I could suggest to him; I considered:
Rolling both edges of the seam in and overlocking these edges,
or
double rolling both seams in (once and then over again) and then placing then together as one and then top stitching down the very edge. This would require patience and extreme care and attanetion as well as time; but in order to gain the closet to a french seam and the most attractive finish: this is the option I thought was the best!
In relation to comming up with a solution for my sleeves; I considered;
Lining the sleeves with perhaps a very thin (almost see through) skin coloured fabric
or
placing the pattern on the same place as the top fabric sleeve; cutting them both out and completing the knitted wire applique through the top fabric sleeves and the lining fabric sleeve!
I was extremely fustrated by my day as I had reached a stand still and would not be able to contibue until my tutorial the following morning. This meant that i used the rest of the afternoon to create and re jiggle my plans for the week or how I could and would catch catch up on my schedule so as i was not behind!!!
~I realise however that this is something a professional in this industry would face a lot due to the artists/bands tight schedule and therefore there is a definate need for good organisation
and time scheduling as well as flexibilty and composed mannorism.
Monday 10 May 2010
proposed plan of action for week starting 10/05/2010
This week I propose to start the week off by finishing my shirt pieces, like my cuffs and pique's! I plan that tuesday, U will make my collars up ready to go onto my jacket. I realise that due to studding my collar, I may need to do this before I put it together and then glue on the rhinestones; however, I do not want the studs to get in the way of where I am sewing; therefore it may be better to do it after I have made the collar up, whilst it is still open at the bottom before it is applied to the jacket! This is something I feel a second opinion from my tutor will help me to decide on the best option. Hopefully I will start my lining that afternoon with my tutor's guidance; due to it being a tailored garment and not having lined a full garment in a tailored way!! I plan to get my lining and facing complete by friday allowing me 3 and half days to complete it! This allows for any problems when putting it in or any larger scale problems; needing a good amount of time to deal with them. I plan to be lining my sleeves and putting them into my garments on friday afternoon and have them complete by 4pm (end of university) This allows me to discuss any problems along the way with my tutor along with my solutions and him advise me on the best solution! I Always try to come up with solutions myself to present to my tutor or research I have done to try to solve a question which he can then advise me from, as in industry this would most likely be the way I would have to tackle something I was unsure about if I was working freelance as most designers/ makers for the industry do!
I then have the weekend before Monday (hand in) to add (glue on and secure) my rhinestones and allow them time to dry before I hand in!
I feel my schedule is realistic and achievable! I will update you on how the week pans out with more regular updates than previously, as it is my last week of completion of my project!
Watch my posts!!!
I then have the weekend before Monday (hand in) to add (glue on and secure) my rhinestones and allow them time to dry before I hand in!
I feel my schedule is realistic and achievable! I will update you on how the week pans out with more regular updates than previously, as it is my last week of completion of my project!
Watch my posts!!!
reflection on week's proposed work ending 7/05/2010
So I proposed this week (being aware that my tutor was away and a temporary tutor had been arranged for the week to cover who would not necessarily know exactly what our project was about and all the ins and outs of it and reasons for decisions made etc), that I would carry out my alterations from my fitting, create my piping that would go on the jacket (out of my black fabric but the reversed side) and work on my sleeves and correcting those. I also proposed to work on my shirt pique pieces; knowing that they were now the correct size etc (from the fitting), the pleated cuffs and the bottom pleated decorational part; getting this to the desired shape and size!
My alterations, were not particularly complicated however, this time I used the procedure of transfering them from one side to the other and re-tacking the lines in place to show the new lines; for a more lasting mark of where things should be placed (e.g the armhole)! I checked with temporary tutor suzan that this was the right way to go about them and she agreed. She also suggested that for the sleeves instead of redrafting them completely; due to the sleeve head shape not changing changing but simply needing to be extended, due to the new armwhole line being moved more toward the neckline; I just needed to measure the extra amount I needed to add to the top of the sleeve head and then apply it to the sleeve head when creating my new pattern piece. The alterations and added tacking took up more time than I expected. I also, despite not fully making them up (sewing them together), wanted to have my collars cut out of my top fabric and the collar canvas ready for My tutor to instruct me on the construction of when he got back; as I need them to be very stiff; especially for the shirt collar; and had prediscussed seeing him about this when he got back, before my 2nd fitting.
I therefore prioritised my alterations; getting my sleeves cut out ready and alterations done. This meant that I did not get onto finishing my Pleated cuffs and piques. Also, I did not wish to rush to get these done as they are key decorational parts of the shirt that would have attention drawn to them; therefore I wanted my measurements for the pleats and where they sat to be as identically accurate as possible. (Like the quality of a tailor made high fashion shirt; very particular and methodical!) Therefore, I was discapointed that these were things I would have to account for in next weeks schedule and add into; however I rathered spending more time on them to gain a quality finish than rushing them.
I did however get the deocrational pleated bottom part completed and was pleased with the result of this!
Suzanne was very helpful and very keen to discuss our projects with us. What I felt was wonderful; was she offered support and her opinion on how to do things; but did not direct you or tell you it was the only way to do it and you had to do it that way! Therefore, her experience within industry did not make her seem undermining or derogatory of our skills! She liked to hear how we would go about it and would then offer her assistance or agree! This gave me belief that I was not out of my depth with this project and was very capable at making good informed decisions; as an industry professional would in their day to day practice!
One slight other task I reaslised the monday night when arriving home from my fitting was that I would need more of the copper knitted wire that would be used for the reverse applique on the sleeves; due to having completed the sample on my 2nd fitting calico sleeve! This was not an issue as I knew this seller was very quick at posting the order and it would be with me if ordered tuesday morning by thursday! However; this was another task to schedule into my weeks plans; possibly resulting in the delay on finishing the cuffs and piques! However; I am pleased I had considered this early on in the week or this may have caused a problem later on in the week if I had not; when I was scheduling for the following week's jobs and time allownaces!!!
My alterations, were not particularly complicated however, this time I used the procedure of transfering them from one side to the other and re-tacking the lines in place to show the new lines; for a more lasting mark of where things should be placed (e.g the armhole)! I checked with temporary tutor suzan that this was the right way to go about them and she agreed. She also suggested that for the sleeves instead of redrafting them completely; due to the sleeve head shape not changing changing but simply needing to be extended, due to the new armwhole line being moved more toward the neckline; I just needed to measure the extra amount I needed to add to the top of the sleeve head and then apply it to the sleeve head when creating my new pattern piece. The alterations and added tacking took up more time than I expected. I also, despite not fully making them up (sewing them together), wanted to have my collars cut out of my top fabric and the collar canvas ready for My tutor to instruct me on the construction of when he got back; as I need them to be very stiff; especially for the shirt collar; and had prediscussed seeing him about this when he got back, before my 2nd fitting.
I therefore prioritised my alterations; getting my sleeves cut out ready and alterations done. This meant that I did not get onto finishing my Pleated cuffs and piques. Also, I did not wish to rush to get these done as they are key decorational parts of the shirt that would have attention drawn to them; therefore I wanted my measurements for the pleats and where they sat to be as identically accurate as possible. (Like the quality of a tailor made high fashion shirt; very particular and methodical!) Therefore, I was discapointed that these were things I would have to account for in next weeks schedule and add into; however I rathered spending more time on them to gain a quality finish than rushing them.
I did however get the deocrational pleated bottom part completed and was pleased with the result of this!
Suzanne was very helpful and very keen to discuss our projects with us. What I felt was wonderful; was she offered support and her opinion on how to do things; but did not direct you or tell you it was the only way to do it and you had to do it that way! Therefore, her experience within industry did not make her seem undermining or derogatory of our skills! She liked to hear how we would go about it and would then offer her assistance or agree! This gave me belief that I was not out of my depth with this project and was very capable at making good informed decisions; as an industry professional would in their day to day practice!
One slight other task I reaslised the monday night when arriving home from my fitting was that I would need more of the copper knitted wire that would be used for the reverse applique on the sleeves; due to having completed the sample on my 2nd fitting calico sleeve! This was not an issue as I knew this seller was very quick at posting the order and it would be with me if ordered tuesday morning by thursday! However; this was another task to schedule into my weeks plans; possibly resulting in the delay on finishing the cuffs and piques! However; I am pleased I had considered this early on in the week or this may have caused a problem later on in the week if I had not; when I was scheduling for the following week's jobs and time allownaces!!!
Thursday 6 May 2010
2nd fitting- technical evaluation (adaptations)
So in terms of what I have to alter this week!
My shirt was a relatively good fit now, however due to lengthening it, I did not consider the hip measurement being wider! This was not a problem as I had still left a good 3cm on the seams and therefore I could take the shirt out at the hip either side the very small amount it needed. Therefore I will be letting the seam out from the pin (and very faint mark) just at the hip 2cm.
The Pique on the shirt I had decided the length and width of by assessing this whilst the shirt was on the stand. Seeing it on James and against the correct fit (not on a model stand) I was still happy with the length of this; this meant that I could use the papper pattern I had used to create this mock version! Regarding the cuffs, due to the sleeves being the right length; I can now this week, go ahead and measure and create the cuffs. I described to james that these would have the pleats in too! This is the same policy with the decorative piece at the lower stomach; due to having checked the CF measurement was correct on the shirt and closed; fitting.. I can this week create this pleated decorational piece. Seeing the shirt on james I could see and discuss with James how low he was happy to have the top opening of the shirt undone and marked this. I also marked how far up the shirt would be sewn and the small amount of buttons that would be inbetween this and the top off the shirt that would be left open.
The collar on the shirt fitted perfectly and was a better shape having increased the size of the lower point; this made it more of a bold eye catching shape!
The sleeve of the shirt needed pulling up a little to create a better fit around the head of the sleeve and has been marked in accordance. This then meant the sleeve would need lengthening by about 2cm around the head to allow for this.
The Jacket:
The CF line would have very little allowance; enough to be able to attach the facing of the jacket! This was due to the fact James had been toning up and working out and had expanded across the pectorials and rib area. This I now, do not see as an issue now, as my Jacket design does deliberately not close in my design so that the shirt can be seen. Equally, considering the fact they are performing and the reason I wished to make a shirt was due to the heat factor; hence they would probably be taking them off anyway; I do not see it being an issue the jacket not properly closing. I may however place buttons on the jacket both sides to make an ironic point that it does not close deliberately; but will add an added decorational touch!
Jacket sleeve: I needed to redraft the sleeve head from my markings on the armhole of the jacket! It also needs to be extended in lenth at the cuff a fraction to allow for seam allowance!
The Jacket Collar I was equally very pleased with both the fit and the shape. So I can this week- cut them from my top fabric ready to make the collar up with Graham's direction on how to put in the collar canvas, the following week!
Trousers:
The monday of the week previously to the fitting; I had gone back to topshop, (having done a mens trouser price check in many different stores, of the trousers that matched the sample shelly had given me of their trouser fabric, the saturday before this, founding they were the cheapest as I could get student discount! When buying these to get the nearest possible size; I used the inside leg, outside leg and waist measurements from my measurement sheet shelly had provided us with at the start of the project. The trousers surprisingly were almost the exact measurements matching James'. Therefore, when James put the trousers on; they were an exact fit and needed no alterations! Therefore I was pleased that I had spent time looking around at different shops among the differnt styles they offered and prices they were at in many different stores! I feel the trousers I sourced were the most appropriate considering my budget as well as style.
I felt this was overall a good fitting! The week ahead, I plan to get all my alterations completed (making use of temporary tutor suzan) in our tutor's replacement! I also plan to get my collar pieces and sleeves cut out from top fabric. The decorative elements of the shirt made up read to be applied.
This then allows me the final week to complete my lining, facings, collars (making them up), and decoration to the jacket and stitched onto the shirt. Then the last weekend; buttons can be sewn on and applied!
My shirt was a relatively good fit now, however due to lengthening it, I did not consider the hip measurement being wider! This was not a problem as I had still left a good 3cm on the seams and therefore I could take the shirt out at the hip either side the very small amount it needed. Therefore I will be letting the seam out from the pin (and very faint mark) just at the hip 2cm.
The Pique on the shirt I had decided the length and width of by assessing this whilst the shirt was on the stand. Seeing it on James and against the correct fit (not on a model stand) I was still happy with the length of this; this meant that I could use the papper pattern I had used to create this mock version! Regarding the cuffs, due to the sleeves being the right length; I can now this week, go ahead and measure and create the cuffs. I described to james that these would have the pleats in too! This is the same policy with the decorative piece at the lower stomach; due to having checked the CF measurement was correct on the shirt and closed; fitting.. I can this week create this pleated decorational piece. Seeing the shirt on james I could see and discuss with James how low he was happy to have the top opening of the shirt undone and marked this. I also marked how far up the shirt would be sewn and the small amount of buttons that would be inbetween this and the top off the shirt that would be left open.
The collar on the shirt fitted perfectly and was a better shape having increased the size of the lower point; this made it more of a bold eye catching shape!
The sleeve of the shirt needed pulling up a little to create a better fit around the head of the sleeve and has been marked in accordance. This then meant the sleeve would need lengthening by about 2cm around the head to allow for this.
The Jacket:
The CF line would have very little allowance; enough to be able to attach the facing of the jacket! This was due to the fact James had been toning up and working out and had expanded across the pectorials and rib area. This I now, do not see as an issue now, as my Jacket design does deliberately not close in my design so that the shirt can be seen. Equally, considering the fact they are performing and the reason I wished to make a shirt was due to the heat factor; hence they would probably be taking them off anyway; I do not see it being an issue the jacket not properly closing. I may however place buttons on the jacket both sides to make an ironic point that it does not close deliberately; but will add an added decorational touch!
Jacket sleeve: I needed to redraft the sleeve head from my markings on the armhole of the jacket! It also needs to be extended in lenth at the cuff a fraction to allow for seam allowance!
The Jacket Collar I was equally very pleased with both the fit and the shape. So I can this week- cut them from my top fabric ready to make the collar up with Graham's direction on how to put in the collar canvas, the following week!
Trousers:
The monday of the week previously to the fitting; I had gone back to topshop, (having done a mens trouser price check in many different stores, of the trousers that matched the sample shelly had given me of their trouser fabric, the saturday before this, founding they were the cheapest as I could get student discount! When buying these to get the nearest possible size; I used the inside leg, outside leg and waist measurements from my measurement sheet shelly had provided us with at the start of the project. The trousers surprisingly were almost the exact measurements matching James'. Therefore, when James put the trousers on; they were an exact fit and needed no alterations! Therefore I was pleased that I had spent time looking around at different shops among the differnt styles they offered and prices they were at in many different stores! I feel the trousers I sourced were the most appropriate considering my budget as well as style.
I felt this was overall a good fitting! The week ahead, I plan to get all my alterations completed (making use of temporary tutor suzan) in our tutor's replacement! I also plan to get my collar pieces and sleeves cut out from top fabric. The decorative elements of the shirt made up read to be applied.
This then allows me the final week to complete my lining, facings, collars (making them up), and decoration to the jacket and stitched onto the shirt. Then the last weekend; buttons can be sewn on and applied!
2nd fitting- reflective post!
Ok, so on the way about 9pm, I got a text saying that plans had changed and James could not make the fitting that would be the next day (monday 3rd) So would I be able to fit him as soon as I got there. I was aware this therefore be a late night fitting seeing as my coach didnt arrive in london until 10:20 and then I had to travel (get a train) across london to get to the flat. However, I was also aware that it was a sunday night and there would be works on the rail lines going on which may affect my route and delay it. Therefore I text back reminding James of this; to ensure he was aware that I would be a good hour longer! (Although, there was little other options at this point.. other than to do it when I got there!) When I arrived at 12, We got stright on with the fitting. Lottie volunteered to be my assistant instantly, which was a massive help and really would help to speed up the whole process! Having lottie passing pins, and as a second pair of eyes was a great help and definately did speed the process up.
Generally the fit was relatively accurate but the sleeves were a bit of an issue around the sleeve head. I pinned the sleeve in how I thought best and explained to lottie my thoughts regarding how to go about creating the correct fit. Lottie was very useful in giving a second opinion. she suggested leaving a little extra etc to what I had for a a bit of reassurance that next time James was to wear it; it would still fit! In relatinion to the fit; I found that in the 3 weeks between the two fittings, James had been working out; his chest had expanded meaning that the cf that I originally marked was inches from being able to close! I had left 5cm on the CF but this still would not be enough to close the jacket with buttons! I was very worried about this, untill lottie pointed out that on my design my jacket was not closed. When I then considered this further and fitted the shirt, I relised that the jacket would not want to be closed as this would block out the decoration of the shirt that adds the interest to the whole costume! Therefore I was reassured. However I was still a little worried as a functional jacket should still close! Lottie suggested to me if i was worried to use.... fastenings; and explained to be due to the tie that was attached to fastening it allowed extra room to fasten the jacket! It was great to hear about another option if i needed a fastening on the jacket; and therefore her knowledge was of great help!
Whilst I was marking these changes and we were discussing things; lottie noted down the alterations and any problems or things I was slightly unsure of to discuss with graham the 2nd week back (when Graham returned) and what we had done! e.g the Jacket front!
Overall the fitting went very well, and managed to get it done much quicker than the last! James was very happy and excited about the jacket sleeve decoartion which I had done on the calico in the exact same way as it will be done on my top fabric (the netting reverse applique) When I showed him the beads and told him where these were placed he was equally excited and very much approved and liked the plan of action regarding this decoration; and commented that he looked forward to seeing it finished!
Finally; the shirt; James was thrilled with this and the decorative elements; even commenting "This is immense; Can I wear it on a night out"!
I felt extremely pleased with what I had produced and now feel extremely confident about the finished looks of the jacket and shirt and the look as a whole including the sourced trousers! All garments compliment one another extremely well and are giving the look that I desired when I created this design. I feel therefore, once again pleased that I spent so long on my research as this has allowed my process to be as calm as it can be with no hickups regarding design and decorative issues so far!
Check out my following blog for the changes that I needed to make and how I planned to go about them!
Generally the fit was relatively accurate but the sleeves were a bit of an issue around the sleeve head. I pinned the sleeve in how I thought best and explained to lottie my thoughts regarding how to go about creating the correct fit. Lottie was very useful in giving a second opinion. she suggested leaving a little extra etc to what I had for a a bit of reassurance that next time James was to wear it; it would still fit! In relatinion to the fit; I found that in the 3 weeks between the two fittings, James had been working out; his chest had expanded meaning that the cf that I originally marked was inches from being able to close! I had left 5cm on the CF but this still would not be enough to close the jacket with buttons! I was very worried about this, untill lottie pointed out that on my design my jacket was not closed. When I then considered this further and fitted the shirt, I relised that the jacket would not want to be closed as this would block out the decoration of the shirt that adds the interest to the whole costume! Therefore I was reassured. However I was still a little worried as a functional jacket should still close! Lottie suggested to me if i was worried to use.... fastenings; and explained to be due to the tie that was attached to fastening it allowed extra room to fasten the jacket! It was great to hear about another option if i needed a fastening on the jacket; and therefore her knowledge was of great help!
Whilst I was marking these changes and we were discussing things; lottie noted down the alterations and any problems or things I was slightly unsure of to discuss with graham the 2nd week back (when Graham returned) and what we had done! e.g the Jacket front!
Overall the fitting went very well, and managed to get it done much quicker than the last! James was very happy and excited about the jacket sleeve decoartion which I had done on the calico in the exact same way as it will be done on my top fabric (the netting reverse applique) When I showed him the beads and told him where these were placed he was equally excited and very much approved and liked the plan of action regarding this decoration; and commented that he looked forward to seeing it finished!
Finally; the shirt; James was thrilled with this and the decorative elements; even commenting "This is immense; Can I wear it on a night out"!
I felt extremely pleased with what I had produced and now feel extremely confident about the finished looks of the jacket and shirt and the look as a whole including the sourced trousers! All garments compliment one another extremely well and are giving the look that I desired when I created this design. I feel therefore, once again pleased that I spent so long on my research as this has allowed my process to be as calm as it can be with no hickups regarding design and decorative issues so far!
Check out my following blog for the changes that I needed to make and how I planned to go about them!
Sunday 2 May 2010
progress on my project- week starting 26/04/10- 30/04/2010
On my way to my 2nd fitting! This fitting is where the garments are generally cut out from the top fabric; although pieces such as the collar and cuffs etc do not get made from top fabric until after the 2nd fitting due to the neckline or cuff of the sleeve needing to be changed! Therefore these are made out of calico; a cheap way to get the idea of what the garment will look like in full when finished but, not wasting your fabric if they need to be changed due to changes made to the lines they attach at! The decoration that can be added should be added at this point; but this does vary from designer to designer; as this is a sheduling decision. However, if the decoration is not completed on the garment due to sheduling choice or due to it being on pieces such as the collar; it is a good idea to provide a sample so as the client can get an insight of what it will look like and can begin to visualise the piece in full! Unfortunately, for my jacket and shirt most of my decoration is on areas that I can not create out of the top fabric until after my fitting! My jacket's rhinestones and studs will be placed on the collar and the cuffs and on the sleeve of the jacket is where the reverse applique will be created. However.. i have bought to my fitting my sleeves with a sample of exactly how the decoration will be... but on the top fabric sleeve after the fitting instead! Also I have bought all of the beads and studs along with my me to the fitting for James to see and be able to visualise the final outcome better! For my shirt, I have done a sample of the pique style piece I want to add to it; but have done this out of the mock fabric that I used for my toile! Unfortunately I have not been able to create the other pleated decorational piece at the bottom of the shirt, due to having to know the fit of the shirt to then know the scale to be able to make it! However I have with me a picture of the shirt and exactly how I wish it to look and will be creating it to look! This will definately give James an idea of how it will look still!
So... the week prior to today... Has been manic! Sadly due to much of my decoration needing to be completed after my fitting, I have not been able to progress as far as other members of the group regarding this! However, I am lucky that this is the case in a sense as my beads only arrived yesterday, due to being held up in customs (one problem I need to consider next time I am ordering internationally, so I would not have been able to necessarily complete it if I was able to in time for this fitting anyway! Despite not having to worry about my beads arriving necessarily due to not needing them on my garment I still wanted them to arrive in time so that I was able to show James! Therefore, all week this was still a worry; and an even bigger worry that my rhinestones and decrational elements are my biggest expenditure of my budget (coming to £.... in total) and they could potentially not arrive due to not having used the website before and in the worst case.. they may not have been posted even and due to my budget; I could not afford the $30 postage on top of the price I was paying that provided insurance! However.. the rhinestones did turn up but not until the saturday! (10 days from my order date.) This did mean though that I am able to take them with me!
So anyway.. despite this I have been manically constructing my garments, which has not proven too difficult since they have been redrafted and I know I have spent a good amount of time the 1st week and the early part of this past week redrafting the sleeves and conducting my alterations; double checking my measurements in the process. Still, I feel a little mervous about my fitting and the jacket or shirt not fitting James (being too small now!) This was another element which is just relating to trusting my abilities and relating to my confidence! This is something that I control when conducting a fitting to be professional but would help myself if I prior to my fitting I managed to control it; so as I was sewing in a more calm conducted way!
I am due to get in to london at 10.20 and conduct my fitting tomorrow (monday in the morning) So I will write up how things went mid week!
So... the week prior to today... Has been manic! Sadly due to much of my decoration needing to be completed after my fitting, I have not been able to progress as far as other members of the group regarding this! However, I am lucky that this is the case in a sense as my beads only arrived yesterday, due to being held up in customs (one problem I need to consider next time I am ordering internationally, so I would not have been able to necessarily complete it if I was able to in time for this fitting anyway! Despite not having to worry about my beads arriving necessarily due to not needing them on my garment I still wanted them to arrive in time so that I was able to show James! Therefore, all week this was still a worry; and an even bigger worry that my rhinestones and decrational elements are my biggest expenditure of my budget (coming to £.... in total) and they could potentially not arrive due to not having used the website before and in the worst case.. they may not have been posted even and due to my budget; I could not afford the $30 postage on top of the price I was paying that provided insurance! However.. the rhinestones did turn up but not until the saturday! (10 days from my order date.) This did mean though that I am able to take them with me!
So anyway.. despite this I have been manically constructing my garments, which has not proven too difficult since they have been redrafted and I know I have spent a good amount of time the 1st week and the early part of this past week redrafting the sleeves and conducting my alterations; double checking my measurements in the process. Still, I feel a little mervous about my fitting and the jacket or shirt not fitting James (being too small now!) This was another element which is just relating to trusting my abilities and relating to my confidence! This is something that I control when conducting a fitting to be professional but would help myself if I prior to my fitting I managed to control it; so as I was sewing in a more calm conducted way!
I am due to get in to london at 10.20 and conduct my fitting tomorrow (monday in the morning) So I will write up how things went mid week!
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