Monday 17 May 2010
Link to band Facebook Group
For conversations with the band and discussions about the project, collaborations within the group and research into the band. Also pictures from my first fitting with James,
click here
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Friday 14 May 2010
reflection on 14/05/2010 plan for weekend before Hand in!
Ok so having got my jacket lining into place ready a day later to what I hoped, I propose that;
Saturday I will complete my jacket sleeves and get them sewn in! I will then therefore decoarte the cuffs with the studs and gems and allow them time therefore to dry!
Saturday evening; I will complete my collar and once again get my decoration on so as it can dry saturday night and even into sunday!
Sunday: I propose to sew in my shirt sleeves in; finish the outside edges of this and top stitch on my pique and lower decorational piece.
Sunday late afternoon: I will sew on my jacket collar and sew on my shirt collar ready.
Sunday evening will order my pattern file ready for hand in and will complete my last blog to you; My 750 word evaluation relfecting on all elements of the project and the very valuable things regarding what I have learnt!!
If I follow this plan I should be complete and ready for my hand in!! Lets hope there are no problems which result in extra time allowance and then put back my schedule; as you can clearly see there really no time to reschedule things; I am working to a very tight time schedule!
This is not something I hope to be doing in my next year in level 6; However on a different note is something that I am sure commonly happens in the music artist costume industry!
Speak to you sunday night!!
Saturday I will complete my jacket sleeves and get them sewn in! I will then therefore decoarte the cuffs with the studs and gems and allow them time therefore to dry!
Saturday evening; I will complete my collar and once again get my decoration on so as it can dry saturday night and even into sunday!
Sunday: I propose to sew in my shirt sleeves in; finish the outside edges of this and top stitch on my pique and lower decorational piece.
Sunday late afternoon: I will sew on my jacket collar and sew on my shirt collar ready.
Sunday evening will order my pattern file ready for hand in and will complete my last blog to you; My 750 word evaluation relfecting on all elements of the project and the very valuable things regarding what I have learnt!!
If I follow this plan I should be complete and ready for my hand in!! Lets hope there are no problems which result in extra time allowance and then put back my schedule; as you can clearly see there really no time to reschedule things; I am working to a very tight time schedule!
This is not something I hope to be doing in my next year in level 6; However on a different note is something that I am sure commonly happens in the music artist costume industry!
Speak to you sunday night!!
reflection of 14/05/2010 tasks and reflection on planned schedule for week!
Ok so first things first, I am feeling a little stressed out; Thursday morning I discovered we had a meeting about our hand in(for monday) in the morning.This therefore took time away from my lining tutorial and meant that I would be set abck a little with the proceedures of my lining. Equally stress has arison due to tuesday and part of wednesday and most of thursday where my tutor was not available and therefore holding me back on my planned timed schedule that was organised to enable completion of my garments in a good time schedule allowing time for problems and dilemnas that may eruot to be solved. However; due to these two days and thursday I was feeling the stress as there was now no time for errors or problems to occur and I would be needing to work at a fast pace but still maintaining accuraacy so as problems did not occur! I feel unfortunately my plan of action has had to be suspended and rearranged which is then hard to adjust to! However i realise I must realise that this is all something that an industry professional would have to face (reorganising their time constantly, rescheduling and reassing) but also in relation to the bands or music artist's schedule too! This illustrates how time management through organision skills are very important aspects of this job in industry! At least I am practicing this; by facing these dilemnas!!!
So enough constructive reflection on my thought regarding the problems surrounding my project and my shedule.. yesterday afternoon at 5pm I did manage to grab my tutor to advise me on what I could do that evening to continue my lining so as I could get that done by tomorrow (despite planning to have the sleeves done and put in by tomorrow originally which would now not happen!!) He advised me to iron all of my seams on my jacket perfectly and press them toward the back of the jacket or in the case of the bottom skirt edge and the waistline edges press them up toward the neckline. However the back seams pressed open and flat! Then I would herringbone stitch these done into place; not going through to the front of the jacket (so as the stitch was not evident from the front) to hold them in place; this would help ensure the accuracy of my garment's lining and end success!! (My ultimate aim!)
Therefore I took this on board and completed this ready for the next morning so as I could be in a position friday to finish my lining!
Friday (today) came and went like every other day has this week! I did however manage to almost complete my lining in class til 4pm but went home and finished my slip stitching. Also tonight I have began to prepare my collar by basting the callar canvas to my shirt collar and my jacket collar and machine stitching the top line!
Today, has been a vigourously manic day and I am still feeling the stress as I have not managed to complete my sleeves as of yet! This is something that I do not wish to rush! Therefore I must remeber to keep the accuracy when completing these over the weekend!
So enough constructive reflection on my thought regarding the problems surrounding my project and my shedule.. yesterday afternoon at 5pm I did manage to grab my tutor to advise me on what I could do that evening to continue my lining so as I could get that done by tomorrow (despite planning to have the sleeves done and put in by tomorrow originally which would now not happen!!) He advised me to iron all of my seams on my jacket perfectly and press them toward the back of the jacket or in the case of the bottom skirt edge and the waistline edges press them up toward the neckline. However the back seams pressed open and flat! Then I would herringbone stitch these done into place; not going through to the front of the jacket (so as the stitch was not evident from the front) to hold them in place; this would help ensure the accuracy of my garment's lining and end success!! (My ultimate aim!)
Therefore I took this on board and completed this ready for the next morning so as I could be in a position friday to finish my lining!
Friday (today) came and went like every other day has this week! I did however manage to almost complete my lining in class til 4pm but went home and finished my slip stitching. Also tonight I have began to prepare my collar by basting the callar canvas to my shirt collar and my jacket collar and machine stitching the top line!
Today, has been a vigourously manic day and I am still feeling the stress as I have not managed to complete my sleeves as of yet! This is something that I do not wish to rush! Therefore I must remeber to keep the accuracy when completing these over the weekend!
Wednesday 12 May 2010
reflection of lining turorial 12/05/2010
First thing in the morning I grabbed my tutor to ensure I could get my queries answered; so that I would be able to continue with my schedule and catch up on it from the less productive day yesterday! My tutor did answer my queries, however regarding the shirt; simply agreed with the option I have come up with, or said that he wouldnt particularly even worry about making the seams this neat and would simply just overlock them. This option I was not satisfied with as it would not give me the lovelyt finish that I wanted; therefore I decided he had approved my suggestion regarding rollign the seams in and then top stitching them together; so I would complete the seams of my shirt this way giving the best finish I could under the circumstances.
Regarding the sleeves of my Jacket and how to line these; he said that this would be a trail and error situation and would advise I tried it the way I thought to; but if this didnt work, I would have to look into other options! He noted that there was not necessarily a right way to do this; it was more of a decision that would come from me about what worked best!
The colalr he advised I studded and decorated after I had made it up! This above advice could now help me to proceed with my garments!
Ok so today I was to be finishing learning how to line my jacket. However... due to being set back by yesterdays fustrations I was only beginning the lining process!!!
When our tutor began the tutorial, he called us over as a group to discuss the linings. I did not feel that at this point in time; this was the best way to explain it; as we were all at different stages. Two members of the group had decided on tuesday (day before) to plough on; use their initiative as our tutor was not available on the tuesday, and find out from two other students making similar 19th century style coats; how they put their linings in and follow this process. I chose yesterday not to do this, as I prefer to be assured about the process being the correct way and ensuring I am not missing out any bital steps! They performed putting in the lining the bagging out way! However, when out tutor was conducting our group tutorial he was worried to see this was the way it had been done and hence why they were having a number of issues with the fit of the lining into the garment! This was very interesting to see; as it was the example of how if something has been tailored throughout; the same degree of care and attention goes into the lining and there is no quick processes within a tailored garment! He explained how much of the lining in the coats is hand sewing (slip stitched) along with a very careful smoothing out technique! What is interesting also about the tailored way of lining a garment is it is done from as flat as possible. (This meant me undoing my shoukder seams) Therefore; this was one highlighted error or the girls implementation of their linings as they had attemoted to put it in with the garment fully sewn together and the sleeves sewn in place! Therefore for them; they not only had to remove their linings but unpick their sleeves from their garment as well as their shoulder seams too!
An interesting learning point for me (who had not began my lining; hence I would do it the correct way from start to finish) was the first thing to be done; concentrating on the front; the front lining and front facing are created separately and sewn in spearately to the rest of the lining. The front is always completed first on a tailored garment! After this, you move onto the sides and backs; where the lining is sewn together before being put in and then smoothed in and slip stiched to the side of the front lining. Then, the skirts are placed in, smoothed to ensure a perfect fit , basted down as all of the pieces are when they have been smoothed into the correct place and put in and then slip stitched into place.
A tip to avoid bulkiness in your lining; (which is not ever a tailor's way) is to cut down all the canvases to the sewing line before putting your lining in place also cut your pieces with just enough lining to fold under to slip stitch over to attach it in place.
The last thing that goes onto the jacket, eve after the sleeves is the collar!
These tips are very valuable and should help me to gain accuracy in the future next year with my projects! This will help me to work more independently on this part of my garment as I did not feel at all comfotable this time around without the help and tuition from my tutor for this part of the jacket!
Today..i only got done the front lining and facing and cutting down all of my seams and canvases! However I aim to continue tomorrow!
Regarding the sleeves of my Jacket and how to line these; he said that this would be a trail and error situation and would advise I tried it the way I thought to; but if this didnt work, I would have to look into other options! He noted that there was not necessarily a right way to do this; it was more of a decision that would come from me about what worked best!
The colalr he advised I studded and decorated after I had made it up! This above advice could now help me to proceed with my garments!
Ok so today I was to be finishing learning how to line my jacket. However... due to being set back by yesterdays fustrations I was only beginning the lining process!!!
When our tutor began the tutorial, he called us over as a group to discuss the linings. I did not feel that at this point in time; this was the best way to explain it; as we were all at different stages. Two members of the group had decided on tuesday (day before) to plough on; use their initiative as our tutor was not available on the tuesday, and find out from two other students making similar 19th century style coats; how they put their linings in and follow this process. I chose yesterday not to do this, as I prefer to be assured about the process being the correct way and ensuring I am not missing out any bital steps! They performed putting in the lining the bagging out way! However, when out tutor was conducting our group tutorial he was worried to see this was the way it had been done and hence why they were having a number of issues with the fit of the lining into the garment! This was very interesting to see; as it was the example of how if something has been tailored throughout; the same degree of care and attention goes into the lining and there is no quick processes within a tailored garment! He explained how much of the lining in the coats is hand sewing (slip stitched) along with a very careful smoothing out technique! What is interesting also about the tailored way of lining a garment is it is done from as flat as possible. (This meant me undoing my shoukder seams) Therefore; this was one highlighted error or the girls implementation of their linings as they had attemoted to put it in with the garment fully sewn together and the sleeves sewn in place! Therefore for them; they not only had to remove their linings but unpick their sleeves from their garment as well as their shoulder seams too!
An interesting learning point for me (who had not began my lining; hence I would do it the correct way from start to finish) was the first thing to be done; concentrating on the front; the front lining and front facing are created separately and sewn in spearately to the rest of the lining. The front is always completed first on a tailored garment! After this, you move onto the sides and backs; where the lining is sewn together before being put in and then smoothed in and slip stiched to the side of the front lining. Then, the skirts are placed in, smoothed to ensure a perfect fit , basted down as all of the pieces are when they have been smoothed into the correct place and put in and then slip stitched into place.
A tip to avoid bulkiness in your lining; (which is not ever a tailor's way) is to cut down all the canvases to the sewing line before putting your lining in place also cut your pieces with just enough lining to fold under to slip stitch over to attach it in place.
The last thing that goes onto the jacket, eve after the sleeves is the collar!
These tips are very valuable and should help me to gain accuracy in the future next year with my projects! This will help me to work more independently on this part of my garment as I did not feel at all comfotable this time around without the help and tuition from my tutor for this part of the jacket!
Today..i only got done the front lining and facing and cutting down all of my seams and canvases! However I aim to continue tomorrow!
Tuesday 11 May 2010
reflection on shedule and day 11/05/2010
Today was a day of major fustration! Due to having finished my cuffs and piques, I had planned to begin creating my lining or fing out how my collars went together with the camvas on. I asked to see my tutor to be able to begin this. A brief appointment was arranged, however, due to other unforseen circumstances, my tutor was not able to attend. I did not want to go about it by guessing how it should be done due to knowing that it was a tailored garment and I had only created untailored costumes; using the bagging out lining process.. incase there was a large variation in a tailored lined garment and this method!
.. however, unfortunetly the other things that I needed to do; there were elements relating to the taliored way (correct way) that i needed to check with my tutor about. For example
when considering the sleeves lining; I realised I needed to consider that the lining would be seen behind the knitted wire pattern. My orginal aim of putting the knitted wire pattern there was as decorational interest but equally so that the cream of the shirt wouls contrat against the copper colour of the wire; or so that the skin would be seen behind! Therefore, lining the whole sleeve under the pattern would defeat the initial object of the patterning! Therefore, I wanted to ask graham if he would line the sleeve with maybe a poernet type fabric to still achieve the skin colour through or if the best option was to cut the pattern out from the lining too!
also... the shirt; due to having to fit the shirt and not at this point thinking about how I was going to finish the sleeves, i sewed the shirt with normal seams. Today having researched how a tailored high fashion/ couture shirt's seams were finished.. It seemed to be suggested by the website www. threadmagazine.com/itme/3702/seam-finishes-for-silks they were created with french seams!
I wanted this confirmed so found a couture shirt company 'A.G.Bespoke Couture' and emailed the company asking about their shirt finishes; in particular inside seam finishes to gain accuracy! I recieved an email back that night from the manager stating: "Our shirts are hand made in italy with french seams, and hand sewn buttons. The fabric collection changes each season which incorporates new colours and shades introduced by latest creation of the fabric designers. The chosen item will always be absolutely exclusive, with the perfect fit and lasting comfort. We believe in investing time to achieve excellence!"
This was of great help to me and established that in order to gain a beautiful finish I would need to spend time on every aspect and stitch!
This however, was a problem as a french seam is sewn wrong sides together and then rolled in to hide the raw edge and then stitched down over the top of the original stitchline. unless I was to unpick my shirt seams and redo them all this way; I would have to discuss the other options and best tailored option with my tutor for the finish of my shirt seams. I therefore thought I would use this time wisely; seeing as my tutor wasnt available, to think of the options I could suggest to him; I considered:
Rolling both edges of the seam in and overlocking these edges,
or
double rolling both seams in (once and then over again) and then placing then together as one and then top stitching down the very edge. This would require patience and extreme care and attanetion as well as time; but in order to gain the closet to a french seam and the most attractive finish: this is the option I thought was the best!
In relation to comming up with a solution for my sleeves; I considered;
Lining the sleeves with perhaps a very thin (almost see through) skin coloured fabric
or
placing the pattern on the same place as the top fabric sleeve; cutting them both out and completing the knitted wire applique through the top fabric sleeves and the lining fabric sleeve!
I was extremely fustrated by my day as I had reached a stand still and would not be able to contibue until my tutorial the following morning. This meant that i used the rest of the afternoon to create and re jiggle my plans for the week or how I could and would catch catch up on my schedule so as i was not behind!!!
~I realise however that this is something a professional in this industry would face a lot due to the artists/bands tight schedule and therefore there is a definate need for good organisation
and time scheduling as well as flexibilty and composed mannorism.
.. however, unfortunetly the other things that I needed to do; there were elements relating to the taliored way (correct way) that i needed to check with my tutor about. For example
when considering the sleeves lining; I realised I needed to consider that the lining would be seen behind the knitted wire pattern. My orginal aim of putting the knitted wire pattern there was as decorational interest but equally so that the cream of the shirt wouls contrat against the copper colour of the wire; or so that the skin would be seen behind! Therefore, lining the whole sleeve under the pattern would defeat the initial object of the patterning! Therefore, I wanted to ask graham if he would line the sleeve with maybe a poernet type fabric to still achieve the skin colour through or if the best option was to cut the pattern out from the lining too!
also... the shirt; due to having to fit the shirt and not at this point thinking about how I was going to finish the sleeves, i sewed the shirt with normal seams. Today having researched how a tailored high fashion/ couture shirt's seams were finished.. It seemed to be suggested by the website www. threadmagazine.com/itme/3702/seam-finishes-for-silks they were created with french seams!
I wanted this confirmed so found a couture shirt company 'A.G.Bespoke Couture' and emailed the company asking about their shirt finishes; in particular inside seam finishes to gain accuracy! I recieved an email back that night from the manager stating: "Our shirts are hand made in italy with french seams, and hand sewn buttons. The fabric collection changes each season which incorporates new colours and shades introduced by latest creation of the fabric designers. The chosen item will always be absolutely exclusive, with the perfect fit and lasting comfort. We believe in investing time to achieve excellence!"
This was of great help to me and established that in order to gain a beautiful finish I would need to spend time on every aspect and stitch!
This however, was a problem as a french seam is sewn wrong sides together and then rolled in to hide the raw edge and then stitched down over the top of the original stitchline. unless I was to unpick my shirt seams and redo them all this way; I would have to discuss the other options and best tailored option with my tutor for the finish of my shirt seams. I therefore thought I would use this time wisely; seeing as my tutor wasnt available, to think of the options I could suggest to him; I considered:
Rolling both edges of the seam in and overlocking these edges,
or
double rolling both seams in (once and then over again) and then placing then together as one and then top stitching down the very edge. This would require patience and extreme care and attanetion as well as time; but in order to gain the closet to a french seam and the most attractive finish: this is the option I thought was the best!
In relation to comming up with a solution for my sleeves; I considered;
Lining the sleeves with perhaps a very thin (almost see through) skin coloured fabric
or
placing the pattern on the same place as the top fabric sleeve; cutting them both out and completing the knitted wire applique through the top fabric sleeves and the lining fabric sleeve!
I was extremely fustrated by my day as I had reached a stand still and would not be able to contibue until my tutorial the following morning. This meant that i used the rest of the afternoon to create and re jiggle my plans for the week or how I could and would catch catch up on my schedule so as i was not behind!!!
~I realise however that this is something a professional in this industry would face a lot due to the artists/bands tight schedule and therefore there is a definate need for good organisation
and time scheduling as well as flexibilty and composed mannorism.
Monday 10 May 2010
proposed plan of action for week starting 10/05/2010
This week I propose to start the week off by finishing my shirt pieces, like my cuffs and pique's! I plan that tuesday, U will make my collars up ready to go onto my jacket. I realise that due to studding my collar, I may need to do this before I put it together and then glue on the rhinestones; however, I do not want the studs to get in the way of where I am sewing; therefore it may be better to do it after I have made the collar up, whilst it is still open at the bottom before it is applied to the jacket! This is something I feel a second opinion from my tutor will help me to decide on the best option. Hopefully I will start my lining that afternoon with my tutor's guidance; due to it being a tailored garment and not having lined a full garment in a tailored way!! I plan to get my lining and facing complete by friday allowing me 3 and half days to complete it! This allows for any problems when putting it in or any larger scale problems; needing a good amount of time to deal with them. I plan to be lining my sleeves and putting them into my garments on friday afternoon and have them complete by 4pm (end of university) This allows me to discuss any problems along the way with my tutor along with my solutions and him advise me on the best solution! I Always try to come up with solutions myself to present to my tutor or research I have done to try to solve a question which he can then advise me from, as in industry this would most likely be the way I would have to tackle something I was unsure about if I was working freelance as most designers/ makers for the industry do!
I then have the weekend before Monday (hand in) to add (glue on and secure) my rhinestones and allow them time to dry before I hand in!
I feel my schedule is realistic and achievable! I will update you on how the week pans out with more regular updates than previously, as it is my last week of completion of my project!
Watch my posts!!!
I then have the weekend before Monday (hand in) to add (glue on and secure) my rhinestones and allow them time to dry before I hand in!
I feel my schedule is realistic and achievable! I will update you on how the week pans out with more regular updates than previously, as it is my last week of completion of my project!
Watch my posts!!!
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