This week was pretty manic as I knew I had to order my rhinestone crystals for the jacket collar and added fabric that I plan to use for the reverse applique to go underneath my top fabric and be stitched around asap so as they would arrive in time to be able to apply to james' costume before the fitting! However, Price was something I needed to consider; I knew these would not be cheap; but i knew buying them ion bulk as I wished to do would make it much cheaper and generally buying internationally; the rhinestones would be cheaper to! (However I would have to consider the postage and packaging price on top of the cost of the decorative materials/ components too!) Therefore I spent a lot of time this week scanning the internet for the best price for what I wanted. The preknitted knitted thin wire that I would be using for the reverse applique I found very easily and was very reasonably priced with free shipping included too! The website offered a variety of colours; however I was satisfied and sure the colour i had picked could not change that much from the colour I saw it as on screen! I therefore checked the refund policy; which was not so cost considerate; however I did not feel worried that the wire would be wrong!
However, When ordering the beads, I came across many different types that I had not seen before and would be very appropriate but due to me combining 2 different size of bead and colour for the collar, I needed to consider this when ordering them. I needed to make sure that the style would compliment one another and the colours would! This made it a very long and hard decision as I could not see them to compare them visually as they were, instead seeing them flat and putting the square of colour palette next to one another; i had to come to a decision! This worried me a little bit as the rhinestones would be costing more than the fabric and as this seller was an international seller, as was the seller of the other option of rhinestone i liked; it would be a reasonable amount of time for them to be devivered anyway and i did not feel i would have time to send them back if they didnt go; and reorder the others; plus this would be added, careless waste of my budget!
I decided to email the two sellers and check the swarovski rhinestones listed as the swarvski size and colour were actually the size and shape and colour which they are on the official swarovski cystal websight page! This was useful for me to do, as this i had a chart for at hand from having bought these crystals already! This would provide me with more confidence with my decision!
Having recieved confirmation from the first seller; which was the seller of one of the swarovski cystal packs I definately was set on buying... I therefore decided that as she had emailed me back so quickly and verified that they were the same as the swarovski crystal rhinestone chart.. i decided it would be best to order the two packs of crystals together! This helped me to confirm my decision! I ordered these crystals after much deliberation on the thursday morning, i knew I would have to allow and week at least as were from an website from outside of europe! I hoped I had not left it too late for these to arrive and apply to James' jacket for the 2nd fitting! I was however lucky, as where I had designed for these to go; on the collar and the cuff, I would not necessarily have to apply these before I had made up my jacket! Equally, I would not apply the ones on the cuff, until I have double checked at the 2nd fitting on the 3rd May the length of the sleeve! Added to this, I could not do the ones on the cuff of the jacket as Graham (our tutor) had advised in our previous tutorial that following redrafting our sleeve pattern to accomodate the new changes to the jacket from fitting 1, we should cut the sleeves again from calico and use the calico sleeves for the 2nd fitting. Then after the 2nd fitting and checking our sleeve pattern redrafted was ok and fitted; we would cut them out from top fabric then at this point!
The rest of this week was spent redrafting my patterns and adapting them as I mentiond in my previous post; tutorial with graham!
Tuesday 27 April 2010
turorial with graham; reflective post!
I feel my tutor's tutorial very useful, as I was unsure how to go about my adaptations. What is interesting from completing this project is I am gradually throughout conducting the whole process from research to design to initial toile construction, apaptation to fitting, top fabric construction to adaptation and refitting; finding out the areas I am confident in my skills and the areas i still doubt and need more assiatnce with. This is extremely useful as will allow me to work on these skills perhaps hopefully over my summer in perparation for level 6 of the course; a much more independent working year! Equally by establishing what I am less confident in I can create question and try to research and find the answers to be able to gain more confidence that I know how to go about the issue.
So far in the project I have felt reasonably comfortable with how to go about the above elements of this project in a correct, professional manner. Although, the fittings I have felt more comfortable with a second opinion certifying my actions and decisions, I have felt a real sense of achievement and confidence in my technical abiulity in this area and professional judgements about how to take in the garments and where is appropriate! However, one area I did not feel so confident in, was how to go about translating the adaptations I had been so confident with to make new pattern pieces to ensure the fit of my top fabric toile, when constructed. I really felt Graham's explanation of taking one side appart once it has been fully marked and cutting the pieces to the correct size (cutting off the Seam Allowances) and using the fabric pieces as pattern pieces to place ontot he top fabric and then adding the seam allowances (as you would with paper patterns) was a clear, accurate and easy way to translate the changes! This Graham (tutor) explained can be used for many garments, and ensures a good amount of accuracy especially for tailors! This is a technique I will definately remember and use for my adaptations in the future!
I realise however, there are other methods of doing this still!
For the skirt, this could be recreated once the jacket bottom had been adapted to the correct fit. We would then simply measure the jacket bottom to create the top of the skirt and measure the jacket length from the back piece (which did still have the skirt attached) from the dropped waist to match the front skirt length. The cf line of the skirt is a design line and therefore was our decision how curved we wished to make this.
Graham's sleeve tutorial was equally very useful and presented me with another way of completing a sleeve pattern and gaianing a more accurate fitting due to all the measurements fully considered and correctly implemented! Although the process was not that different to how I completed my sleeve originally; although measuring the over arm sleeve head line and the under edge sleeve head line to correctly fit and knowing the ease to add in; is very useful to know for my future construction practice.
Graham in this session explained to us what he would have completed and finished for the final fitting and what fabric to do it from etc.
He suggested we still completed out redrafted sleeves from calico; to ensure the correct fit before cutting them out and wasting top fabric.
He advised we either tacked these into our jackets (created out of top fabric and finished correctly including the implentation of the hair canvases, shoulder canvas and breast felt) or used a very long stitch on the sewing machine. We were instructed, even during our fittings, to not cut down the seam allowances until we were completing our adaptations and he had seen how our fittings went and the adaptations that were needed. (often tailors do not cut the seams down until just before the lining is put in anyway!)
He advised any decoration that was not around the seam lines or style lines such as the CF and cuffs, and collar, was completed for the fitting! If this could not be done due to the decoration being around these areas; complete a sample to show our band member; allowing them to gain a visualisation of how it would look when completed. This was advised by him to be done, as the distance limited them seeing the progress of the construction as regularly as it would be seen perhaps in industry if a designer was making for a client. Equally bring along to the fitting any buttons or rhinestones etc to show and place thwem where they would be going. By showing the clients these decorational features; this allows them to speak out and discuss changes or factors they did not like, before it had been fully completed and could not be changed. This equally allowed for further positive development of our jackets and a prime opportunity for communication with our band members!
Finally he reminded us to plan out our time after the fitting; regarding what we anticipated to have to still complete in the following 2 weeks so as we did not overlook any elements!
Overall; Graham's tutorial made me feel much more confident about how to complete the weeks schedule regarding the changes and making up my jacket from top fabric. It overly made me feel more confident about the second fitting too; as Graham pointed out that due to the way we were completing the adaptations; there should be few the second time; perhaps only with the sleeves!
This gave me confidence that after the 2nd fitting, I would not feel there was too much to complete in time for deadline 2 weeks after we got back from the fitting!
So far in the project I have felt reasonably comfortable with how to go about the above elements of this project in a correct, professional manner. Although, the fittings I have felt more comfortable with a second opinion certifying my actions and decisions, I have felt a real sense of achievement and confidence in my technical abiulity in this area and professional judgements about how to take in the garments and where is appropriate! However, one area I did not feel so confident in, was how to go about translating the adaptations I had been so confident with to make new pattern pieces to ensure the fit of my top fabric toile, when constructed. I really felt Graham's explanation of taking one side appart once it has been fully marked and cutting the pieces to the correct size (cutting off the Seam Allowances) and using the fabric pieces as pattern pieces to place ontot he top fabric and then adding the seam allowances (as you would with paper patterns) was a clear, accurate and easy way to translate the changes! This Graham (tutor) explained can be used for many garments, and ensures a good amount of accuracy especially for tailors! This is a technique I will definately remember and use for my adaptations in the future!
I realise however, there are other methods of doing this still!
For the skirt, this could be recreated once the jacket bottom had been adapted to the correct fit. We would then simply measure the jacket bottom to create the top of the skirt and measure the jacket length from the back piece (which did still have the skirt attached) from the dropped waist to match the front skirt length. The cf line of the skirt is a design line and therefore was our decision how curved we wished to make this.
Graham's sleeve tutorial was equally very useful and presented me with another way of completing a sleeve pattern and gaianing a more accurate fitting due to all the measurements fully considered and correctly implemented! Although the process was not that different to how I completed my sleeve originally; although measuring the over arm sleeve head line and the under edge sleeve head line to correctly fit and knowing the ease to add in; is very useful to know for my future construction practice.
Graham in this session explained to us what he would have completed and finished for the final fitting and what fabric to do it from etc.
He suggested we still completed out redrafted sleeves from calico; to ensure the correct fit before cutting them out and wasting top fabric.
He advised we either tacked these into our jackets (created out of top fabric and finished correctly including the implentation of the hair canvases, shoulder canvas and breast felt) or used a very long stitch on the sewing machine. We were instructed, even during our fittings, to not cut down the seam allowances until we were completing our adaptations and he had seen how our fittings went and the adaptations that were needed. (often tailors do not cut the seams down until just before the lining is put in anyway!)
He advised any decoration that was not around the seam lines or style lines such as the CF and cuffs, and collar, was completed for the fitting! If this could not be done due to the decoration being around these areas; complete a sample to show our band member; allowing them to gain a visualisation of how it would look when completed. This was advised by him to be done, as the distance limited them seeing the progress of the construction as regularly as it would be seen perhaps in industry if a designer was making for a client. Equally bring along to the fitting any buttons or rhinestones etc to show and place thwem where they would be going. By showing the clients these decorational features; this allows them to speak out and discuss changes or factors they did not like, before it had been fully completed and could not be changed. This equally allowed for further positive development of our jackets and a prime opportunity for communication with our band members!
Finally he reminded us to plan out our time after the fitting; regarding what we anticipated to have to still complete in the following 2 weeks so as we did not overlook any elements!
Overall; Graham's tutorial made me feel much more confident about how to complete the weeks schedule regarding the changes and making up my jacket from top fabric. It overly made me feel more confident about the second fitting too; as Graham pointed out that due to the way we were completing the adaptations; there should be few the second time; perhaps only with the sleeves!
This gave me confidence that after the 2nd fitting, I would not feel there was too much to complete in time for deadline 2 weeks after we got back from the fitting!
Wednesday 21 April 2010
tutorial with graham; technical elements
We met as a group with our tutor, when we were back from easter on the 14/04/2010. As our tutor had not seen out coats, he asked us if we could put them all on the manequins ready for him to look at! Through doing this he was able to study the shapes of them and what alterations we had planned through our pinning and chalked lines on our toiles! He went through each of ours one by one, but the things that he commented on were handy for all of the group to listen to as some of it could be applied to all of our coats! He liked the way that the coats were all slightly different and complimented us for the stage we had got to; produced a first toile of our coats and trousers.. or for me.. shirt! (Although... this tutorial he was only looking at our coats!)
We showed him the photos from the fittings for each of our coats. For my coat, I agreed that pattern was made with a little bit too much allowance; however my tutor commented; it is always better for a toile to be too big than too small! He was concerned in one of the photos that the back side seam was not vertically running down to the bottom as the others did and instead was running a little diagionallyl however, from looking at my toile, he realised this was not the case and I had ensured it ran paralell vertical to the others!!
He advised that to add interest and to ensure the shape was fully historical, I inserted an opening at the back; the diagram attached shows what this is! This was not hard to do, it just meant adding a step onto the back seam of my jacket pattern! He also suggested that I moved the side- back seam closer toward the centre back to lessen the amount of fabric at the waist between the CB seam and the side back seam. This does not mean however taking any actual fabric out of the shape, as this would alter the fit; but simply moving the seam line. I did this by drawing it onto my toile where it should sit; closer to the centre back seam!
Graham then showed us how to deconstruct our toiles to be able to transfer the alterations into our pattern blocks and then create new pattern pieces to use for cutting out our top fabric, or to be able to the toile disassembled pieces to cut out the top fabric from!#
He noted; start by cutting down the centre back and discarding the side of the toile that you have not done your alterations on! #
Next we disassembled the seams of the jacket once you have ensure that they have been marked on both sewing sides. For me.. this applied to all the pother seam except my side back seam; instead of cutting down the seamline which i had taken it in at, I needed to now, cut down the new line i had marked; this was now my new side back seam line despite the pins in the old side back seam taking it in!
after this, we ironed our jacket pieces flat, so as when cutting down the altered lines, we had the most accurate shape possible! Before cutting down your marked lines, ensure they are all creating smooth curved lines; if not.. ensure they do... then cut along them (the small excess can binned) Note: We now had to remember that the new pieces created from our alterations in this session had no seam allowance now, and therefore when placing them onto our top fabric; to remember to add the correct seam allowances!
Graham (out tutor) also told us to, before pinning our pieces to our fabric, and adding on our seam allowances to consider the fact that for our fittings we only used calico fabric; which is very very thin in comparison to our jacket fabrics! (even though mine was thin; due to consideration of heat, it was no where near this fineness of the calico!) Therefore he advised when we were drawing around the our new fabric pattern pieces onto the top fabric, we added a 1/4 cm allowance on the backseam and side seam; (he said it was not necessary to add this to the side back seam too, as we didnt want to make it too big again and have to re fit it again!)
Graham noted that the 2nd fitting should be minor alterations (amount taken in if any) and very little to the fit should need doing; adding this allowance on should not alter the fit, but should allow for the extra thickness of the jacket fabric and hair canvas, breast felt, and shoulder caanvas that would be added into it to support it!
We finished by instructing us all to remember to measure down the side back and side seams and check the measurements were still the same; meaning that they would go successfully back together again! If not.. he advised we draw the curves to be slightly more or slightly less convex/concave to correct this as they should have only altered by a fraction! cut these pieces once again out of calico or from paper to accomodate the changes; and use these new pieces to pin onto you top fabric and cutout from!
Graham then in the afternoon went on to do a sleeve tutorial. He gave us a handout for this and went through it with us; answering and clarifying any questions we had!
See tutorial reflection for my thoughts and smaller discussions we had regarding the next fitting!
We showed him the photos from the fittings for each of our coats. For my coat, I agreed that pattern was made with a little bit too much allowance; however my tutor commented; it is always better for a toile to be too big than too small! He was concerned in one of the photos that the back side seam was not vertically running down to the bottom as the others did and instead was running a little diagionallyl however, from looking at my toile, he realised this was not the case and I had ensured it ran paralell vertical to the others!!
He advised that to add interest and to ensure the shape was fully historical, I inserted an opening at the back; the diagram attached shows what this is! This was not hard to do, it just meant adding a step onto the back seam of my jacket pattern! He also suggested that I moved the side- back seam closer toward the centre back to lessen the amount of fabric at the waist between the CB seam and the side back seam. This does not mean however taking any actual fabric out of the shape, as this would alter the fit; but simply moving the seam line. I did this by drawing it onto my toile where it should sit; closer to the centre back seam!
Graham then showed us how to deconstruct our toiles to be able to transfer the alterations into our pattern blocks and then create new pattern pieces to use for cutting out our top fabric, or to be able to the toile disassembled pieces to cut out the top fabric from!#
He noted; start by cutting down the centre back and discarding the side of the toile that you have not done your alterations on! #
Next we disassembled the seams of the jacket once you have ensure that they have been marked on both sewing sides. For me.. this applied to all the pother seam except my side back seam; instead of cutting down the seamline which i had taken it in at, I needed to now, cut down the new line i had marked; this was now my new side back seam line despite the pins in the old side back seam taking it in!
after this, we ironed our jacket pieces flat, so as when cutting down the altered lines, we had the most accurate shape possible! Before cutting down your marked lines, ensure they are all creating smooth curved lines; if not.. ensure they do... then cut along them (the small excess can binned) Note: We now had to remember that the new pieces created from our alterations in this session had no seam allowance now, and therefore when placing them onto our top fabric; to remember to add the correct seam allowances!
Graham (out tutor) also told us to, before pinning our pieces to our fabric, and adding on our seam allowances to consider the fact that for our fittings we only used calico fabric; which is very very thin in comparison to our jacket fabrics! (even though mine was thin; due to consideration of heat, it was no where near this fineness of the calico!) Therefore he advised when we were drawing around the our new fabric pattern pieces onto the top fabric, we added a 1/4 cm allowance on the backseam and side seam; (he said it was not necessary to add this to the side back seam too, as we didnt want to make it too big again and have to re fit it again!)
Graham noted that the 2nd fitting should be minor alterations (amount taken in if any) and very little to the fit should need doing; adding this allowance on should not alter the fit, but should allow for the extra thickness of the jacket fabric and hair canvas, breast felt, and shoulder caanvas that would be added into it to support it!
We finished by instructing us all to remember to measure down the side back and side seams and check the measurements were still the same; meaning that they would go successfully back together again! If not.. he advised we draw the curves to be slightly more or slightly less convex/concave to correct this as they should have only altered by a fraction! cut these pieces once again out of calico or from paper to accomodate the changes; and use these new pieces to pin onto you top fabric and cutout from!
Graham then in the afternoon went on to do a sleeve tutorial. He gave us a handout for this and went through it with us; answering and clarifying any questions we had!
See tutorial reflection for my thoughts and smaller discussions we had regarding the next fitting!
Tuesday 20 April 2010
reflection on the fitting! 6/04/2010
The fitting, we had organised with the band and had been decided by them and agreed by us that the best place to have it, regarding everyone being able to get there etc, was in london at one of the band member's flats! This was essentually not ideal, as it meant we would be completely on our own; with only one another to fall back on if there were any problems with the coats! Equally, due to it being in London, this still meant travelling to get there. Unfortunately for me.. trains were far from running smoothly that evening, so it did mean I was a little late.. but there band were very relaxed and were fully understanding!
As soon as i arrived I began with James' fitting. The band members were all excited to be seeing the initail stages of their costumes and hear about our ideas and plans for them!
James' coat did need relative amounts of fitting especially at the side seam and side-back seam! The armholes, I spent quite a long time on assessing the correct positioning as this would be a key element effecting their level of performance and comfort wearing the coat!
James was very patient and easy to work with and followed my requests happily; where i asked him to bend his arm or turn around etc!
I showed James the fabrics; which he very much complimented and was excited about!
The adaptations to my coat were:
taking in the side seam,
side back seam,
moving back slightly and taking out fabric from the shoulder seam,
moving up the armhole to provide more movement and space around the shoulder for flexibility of movement.
The length,the lapel shape, collar shape, fullness of the skirt were all elements I checked with James he was happy with despite me feeling happy with how they looked; James confirmed he was happy and liked it as it was in relation to those areas so I did not adapt them!
The sleeve I made thinner (less baggy) and more fitted which I knew would consequently affect the sleeve head and underarm and would therefore need redrafting and checking against the new armhole position!
The fitting lasted approximately 3 hours, however this did include dressing time for both the shirt and the jacket, photos, refreshments, and no assistant passing pins or taking ntoes etc!
The fitting I felt went extreamly well and was a real eye opening experience as I discovered that I was not fased by a tutor not being there and directing me in what I should be doing and where I should be taking it in in order for it to fit correctly; as i found I had enough knowledge from previous fittings over the 2 years of the course to assess and decide this myself!
I remained calm and completed the fitting in a professional mannor as I would be doing in industry! However, I felt that, due to us all fitting our own at the same time, (to avoid the band members waiting around and it taking longer than it needed to) we did not have assistants which did lengthen the amount of time the fitting took. This made me aware of how useful and helpful it is to have an assistant to fill in passing pins, taking pictures, taking notes as this definately does help reduce the amount of time; shortening the process!
I was conscious to take many pictures, so that if there was any problem once I was back at uni again, my tutor could see the pictures which would hopefully help to solve any problem or understand it more and what I had done at the fitting and why!! Pictures show a relative amount; but I ensured I took notes too, to back up my photos and ensure I understood my photos!
As a group we worked very well and supported each other where we needed. One of the my group members I asked to double check my placing of the sleeve, as I felt two sets of eyes and sets of knowledge put together should mean fewer problems or faults! Also, I did this for re-assurance that my understandings were correct in placing the sleeve and my adaptations and I had not forgotten any methods, alteration rules or elements regarding this that could cause a problem at a later stage!! As in a sense, a problem for one member of the group is a problem for all.. as despite being assessed separately we are making for a band; a collective group and doing an end photoshoot so it is important that we are all there supporting each other for these reasons and for a positive working relationship!
As soon as i arrived I began with James' fitting. The band members were all excited to be seeing the initail stages of their costumes and hear about our ideas and plans for them!
James' coat did need relative amounts of fitting especially at the side seam and side-back seam! The armholes, I spent quite a long time on assessing the correct positioning as this would be a key element effecting their level of performance and comfort wearing the coat!
James was very patient and easy to work with and followed my requests happily; where i asked him to bend his arm or turn around etc!
I showed James the fabrics; which he very much complimented and was excited about!
The adaptations to my coat were:
taking in the side seam,
side back seam,
moving back slightly and taking out fabric from the shoulder seam,
moving up the armhole to provide more movement and space around the shoulder for flexibility of movement.
The length,the lapel shape, collar shape, fullness of the skirt were all elements I checked with James he was happy with despite me feeling happy with how they looked; James confirmed he was happy and liked it as it was in relation to those areas so I did not adapt them!
The sleeve I made thinner (less baggy) and more fitted which I knew would consequently affect the sleeve head and underarm and would therefore need redrafting and checking against the new armhole position!
The fitting lasted approximately 3 hours, however this did include dressing time for both the shirt and the jacket, photos, refreshments, and no assistant passing pins or taking ntoes etc!
The fitting I felt went extreamly well and was a real eye opening experience as I discovered that I was not fased by a tutor not being there and directing me in what I should be doing and where I should be taking it in in order for it to fit correctly; as i found I had enough knowledge from previous fittings over the 2 years of the course to assess and decide this myself!
I remained calm and completed the fitting in a professional mannor as I would be doing in industry! However, I felt that, due to us all fitting our own at the same time, (to avoid the band members waiting around and it taking longer than it needed to) we did not have assistants which did lengthen the amount of time the fitting took. This made me aware of how useful and helpful it is to have an assistant to fill in passing pins, taking pictures, taking notes as this definately does help reduce the amount of time; shortening the process!
I was conscious to take many pictures, so that if there was any problem once I was back at uni again, my tutor could see the pictures which would hopefully help to solve any problem or understand it more and what I had done at the fitting and why!! Pictures show a relative amount; but I ensured I took notes too, to back up my photos and ensure I understood my photos!
As a group we worked very well and supported each other where we needed. One of the my group members I asked to double check my placing of the sleeve, as I felt two sets of eyes and sets of knowledge put together should mean fewer problems or faults! Also, I did this for re-assurance that my understandings were correct in placing the sleeve and my adaptations and I had not forgotten any methods, alteration rules or elements regarding this that could cause a problem at a later stage!! As in a sense, a problem for one member of the group is a problem for all.. as despite being assessed separately we are making for a band; a collective group and doing an end photoshoot so it is important that we are all there supporting each other for these reasons and for a positive working relationship!
reflection on the making of my toile!
Due to drafting my own pattern, the books did not have making up intructions as such, as it comes back to the point the tutor made regarding the years of making experience tailors had in these historic periods and therefore knowledge to accompany this!
However.. through reading about how this century was a turning point of the tailoring industry through developing new styles and shapes of menswear, and different elements of the clothing in focus, I was able to work out how and where my toile pieces should be placed together. Equally.. by studying many different pictures, patterns and real garments as the tailors would have in period centuries, I was able to assess if the shape that I created looked right and would follow the silhouette of the body correctly. This did not particularly matter at this stage as long as it looked like the pattern; a dress coat, as it would be fitted correctly at the fitting and alterations would then be done!
We made our toiles in calico first to ensure the measurements taken were correct as only one group memeber has taken them all and it is simple to acidently take a wrong measurement, or write it against the wrong box etc! Calico is an extreamly cheap fabric and therefore was not taking money away from our budget by any means!
I successfully completed my jacket in time for my fitting and my shirt. I decided to leave the sleeves off of them both as 9 times out of 10 then sleeves are taken out anyway and replaced back in once the armhole is correct! Therefore I would pin these in once I had done so!
I created my collars, and had remembered from our leture in tailoring and from our fitting before that for a first fitting these are not sewn onto the garment often and are simply taken as separates and then pinned on to gain an insight of the lok once the neckline has been assessed!
I also decided that I would form the pleats on a stand after the first fitting once I knew the fit of the shirt, as the pleats are simply running down the centre front anyway!
I was therefore very pleased that my tight dealine, that I had very closely stuck to generally, had paid off and therefore at the fitting I could gain an insight into what James' coat shape would look like and how it would fit! Although, interestingly, I did still feel worried regarding choices I still had to make on decorational elements and how these would look as I could not visualise this; but that is an element of a second draft so therefore was not an issue and something I would just have to make decisions on and adapt if necessary! However I do not see this being a problem, as I did for this reason a large amount of research and consideration before creating my designs so as I would not be faced with a big problem of the decoration not fitting to the style of the jacket and working together. The only way I foresee, if I had of had any more time I could have reduced this worry was if I had of created a sample of my decoration and pinned in in place onto the calico toile in the place where it would be applied; however even then, it does not show particularly the same effect it will have on your top fabric and could still turn out to be completely different at the 2nd fitting (when out of top fabric and decorated) to how you imagined!
However.. through reading about how this century was a turning point of the tailoring industry through developing new styles and shapes of menswear, and different elements of the clothing in focus, I was able to work out how and where my toile pieces should be placed together. Equally.. by studying many different pictures, patterns and real garments as the tailors would have in period centuries, I was able to assess if the shape that I created looked right and would follow the silhouette of the body correctly. This did not particularly matter at this stage as long as it looked like the pattern; a dress coat, as it would be fitted correctly at the fitting and alterations would then be done!
We made our toiles in calico first to ensure the measurements taken were correct as only one group memeber has taken them all and it is simple to acidently take a wrong measurement, or write it against the wrong box etc! Calico is an extreamly cheap fabric and therefore was not taking money away from our budget by any means!
I successfully completed my jacket in time for my fitting and my shirt. I decided to leave the sleeves off of them both as 9 times out of 10 then sleeves are taken out anyway and replaced back in once the armhole is correct! Therefore I would pin these in once I had done so!
I created my collars, and had remembered from our leture in tailoring and from our fitting before that for a first fitting these are not sewn onto the garment often and are simply taken as separates and then pinned on to gain an insight of the lok once the neckline has been assessed!
I also decided that I would form the pleats on a stand after the first fitting once I knew the fit of the shirt, as the pleats are simply running down the centre front anyway!
I was therefore very pleased that my tight dealine, that I had very closely stuck to generally, had paid off and therefore at the fitting I could gain an insight into what James' coat shape would look like and how it would fit! Although, interestingly, I did still feel worried regarding choices I still had to make on decorational elements and how these would look as I could not visualise this; but that is an element of a second draft so therefore was not an issue and something I would just have to make decisions on and adapt if necessary! However I do not see this being a problem, as I did for this reason a large amount of research and consideration before creating my designs so as I would not be faced with a big problem of the decoration not fitting to the style of the jacket and working together. The only way I foresee, if I had of had any more time I could have reduced this worry was if I had of created a sample of my decoration and pinned in in place onto the calico toile in the place where it would be applied; however even then, it does not show particularly the same effect it will have on your top fabric and could still turn out to be completely different at the 2nd fitting (when out of top fabric and decorated) to how you imagined!
Sunday 18 April 2010
reflection on my individual fabric shopping trip in shepherds Bush, London!
Ok.. so on the first Saturday of arriving home, I went to shepherds bush to source and hopefully buy my fabric! Due to shopping at shepherds bush for my 1st year end of year make project; I knew there was a whole highstreet of shops with a very large variety of choice! This; I think was partly also why I didnt want to purchse the fabrics I had seen at Hansons fabric store in Dorset, when we had gone as a group; as I knew I would be able to get very similar if not the same even (if I took my swatches along) for a much cheaper price. Also the joy of these types of very small competitive shops as opposed to somewhere like 'Hansons' (more of a warehouse store) is you can to some extent haggle to get a price that you are more comfortable with (as many of the shop keepers are very aware of their 'on the doorstep' competition which may well also stock that fabric and offer a better deal!)
This trip was very worthwhile also as I could look to see if there was any more individual components or beads/ decorational elements that inspired a decorational sample idea or that I would not be able to find at a later date when sourcing these and therefore would not be able to buy now! This was not actually the case.. however going to the fabric shops there again.. bought right back the sheer variety of choice but not sacrificing quality!
The shop assistants were very nice and are happy to help! Through explaining what the material I had selected would be used for (James' dress coat) The shop keeper was able reassure me that the weight of the fabric would be good for a jacket; and gave me information on the suitability regarding washing, dry cleaning, drying, stain removal, absorbancy! The shop keeper was extremely happy to help and through eplaining I was a student and my project he was willing to support me by discounting the fabric slightly (knocking off £5 from the total bill) as it was a university project!
Despite travelling costs which, (due to good planning; going on a saturday with weekend fares on oyster being very cheap) came to £10 return, my shirt and jacket fabric came to £25 in total! Therefore, even if I added the £10 travelling costs to this; £35 for all of my fabric is extremely cheap! Having set the budget with the other group members at £100; this would mean I have enough money definately for the decorational elements I was hoping to purchase! (Which I had worked out the price of before buying my fabric so that I knew the price I was aiming for with my fabric!)
The trip only took from mid morning until early afternoon which meant that I still had the rest of the afternoon to get on, so did not lose time and could finish off my pattern drafting that I was set back on slightly!
This trip was very worthwhile also as I could look to see if there was any more individual components or beads/ decorational elements that inspired a decorational sample idea or that I would not be able to find at a later date when sourcing these and therefore would not be able to buy now! This was not actually the case.. however going to the fabric shops there again.. bought right back the sheer variety of choice but not sacrificing quality!
The shop assistants were very nice and are happy to help! Through explaining what the material I had selected would be used for (James' dress coat) The shop keeper was able reassure me that the weight of the fabric would be good for a jacket; and gave me information on the suitability regarding washing, dry cleaning, drying, stain removal, absorbancy! The shop keeper was extremely happy to help and through eplaining I was a student and my project he was willing to support me by discounting the fabric slightly (knocking off £5 from the total bill) as it was a university project!
Despite travelling costs which, (due to good planning; going on a saturday with weekend fares on oyster being very cheap) came to £10 return, my shirt and jacket fabric came to £25 in total! Therefore, even if I added the £10 travelling costs to this; £35 for all of my fabric is extremely cheap! Having set the budget with the other group members at £100; this would mean I have enough money definately for the decorational elements I was hoping to purchase! (Which I had worked out the price of before buying my fabric so that I knew the price I was aiming for with my fabric!)
The trip only took from mid morning until early afternoon which meant that I still had the rest of the afternoon to get on, so did not lose time and could finish off my pattern drafting that I was set back on slightly!
development and reflection of pattern drafting!
Having recieved James' decided design and comments that he liked it all as it was and did not have any objections to the fabrics or components (including decorational components such as the swarovski rhinestones I was considering), I decided to go ahead with drafting the basic pattern for the coat and shirt! From the historical reference material I collected earlier in the project, I established that it would be best to start off drafting a dress coat pattern and then adapting it, as this would be the closet shape to my design and would generally be style lines such as the centre front and lapel that I needed to adapt anyway. Therefore, this would not change the technical elements that required James set measurements that one of the other girls in the group had taken a few weeks in advance of the project commencing!
I used our library to source this pattern so as I was able to form a 19th century historical based pattern and was easy to access the patterns quickly to get drafting them asap, so that I could stick to my schedules day to day plans. From studing many of the books.. very few actually had full patterns in with fulld rafting instructions, therefore I had to make use of the ones that did have this in! i therefore decided to use a pattern from 'The art of the tailor' by Robert Doyle for a morning coat which looked to be a similar shape to a dress coat but a more historical pattern than the patterns i found for the dress coat which appreared very much more modern. I did not want to use a strikingly modern shape pattern as i discussed earlier in my blogs, the historicial 19th century style is within the shape of my coat and to some extent the colours; rather than through the material or decoration!
I began to draft this pattern which, despite having followed historical patterns several times previously, was proving quite tricky due to having use an educated guess at exactly what they pattern instructions were directing you to plot! My drafting for the coat; was halted when the pattern was telling me to plot point 13, but on the diagram, there was no point 13 to direct me! I therefore checked the books other coat patterns to see if i could make an educated decision based on them being very similar drafting patterns; as to where the point 13 was on these, however this did not answer my problem. query unfortunately. Therefore; I met with my tutor to discuss my problem and see if he could explain it to me or if he could direct me to where I could find out the answer! He explained to me that some historic patterns are more informative and better than others.. as tailors of this period which the books were, to some extent, written for by the tailor who found the original pattern, would have been making and creating constantly garments (all very similar ones too, as menwear style was not majorly indivually innovative yet) for about 10 years at least, before they would learn how to draft patterns and follow patterns. By which time they woulld have enough knowledge from making the garments that they would be able to assume and visualise where to plot points (where it would make sense to plot them! )
My tutor recommended to me to use the dress coat pattern from 'The modern tailor, clothier and outfitter' book by A.A Whife, as this was a reliable sourced book and had two other volumes that accompanied it which explained things of that days terms, that may not be used or the case today! These books were extremely helpful and I was able to complete my dress coat pattern from these books, although this book was published in the latter part of the 19th century, so therefore it was more of a modern pattern than I was hoping to create, but it could be adapted once the basic pattern had been drafted which was the key thing to remember!
Therefore, from this, I learnt that next time I use a historical pattern; read it through thoroughly first before decising on it due to it being the right 'look' to ensure it is explained from start to end in a way that you can follow as in many historic patterns; very little is explained in detail or any depth particularly. Unfortunely, this set me back a day on my pattern drafting and therefore a day back on my schedule! However, I had allowed time for minor set backs so therefore this was not a problem which would effect me getting my coat and shirt created for James' first fitting. However this did cause me a lot of fustration as time was limited if i was to come across any further problems when I was putting the coat and shirt together!
The shirt patter I got from................ book and was much more simple to draft! This is i feel to an extent because 19th century style shirts are more of a baggy, less stylised, fitted shape!!
For both the coat and the Jacket, the measurement of the length was down to you to decide based on the height measurement you had taken from the person that would be wearing the garment. I decided this by using a tape measure, setting a manequin to James' height, and from my design deciding where I wanted these to come to, however this was something I felt would have been much easier visalising and deciding upon, if I had of taken this measurement instead of my group member helping us out by doing all of the measurements she felt necessary when measuring James before the project!
To get around this, I decided to put one of my housemate's 21st century modern shirts on the manequin to see where this came to as a guide and then decide based on my historical research pictures and written information on the styles of this period!
I finished creating both the patterns and added the adaptations I wanted to make to the Jacket pattern such as the lapel, which I wanted to make quite large and pointed, and the centre front line with a slight gap when it closed!
The sleeves and the collar for the jacket and shirt I drafted separately; as these are much more straight forward standard patterns which are always down to the cutter(maker) to adapt and decide! I made my colour very pointed to follow the sharpness of the jacket and the sleeves I followed the 19th century pattern and enseure they were to james' measurements; these I did not adapt to keep historical factors and would simply fit at the first fitting!
I was pleased when I had finished drafting my patterns and felt a sense of much confidence in my abilites that I have developed. Despite the set back; I was pleased I had managed to create these patterns and could continue to the next step with no major problems or no problems overhanging!
I used our library to source this pattern so as I was able to form a 19th century historical based pattern and was easy to access the patterns quickly to get drafting them asap, so that I could stick to my schedules day to day plans. From studing many of the books.. very few actually had full patterns in with fulld rafting instructions, therefore I had to make use of the ones that did have this in! i therefore decided to use a pattern from 'The art of the tailor' by Robert Doyle for a morning coat which looked to be a similar shape to a dress coat but a more historical pattern than the patterns i found for the dress coat which appreared very much more modern. I did not want to use a strikingly modern shape pattern as i discussed earlier in my blogs, the historicial 19th century style is within the shape of my coat and to some extent the colours; rather than through the material or decoration!
I began to draft this pattern which, despite having followed historical patterns several times previously, was proving quite tricky due to having use an educated guess at exactly what they pattern instructions were directing you to plot! My drafting for the coat; was halted when the pattern was telling me to plot point 13, but on the diagram, there was no point 13 to direct me! I therefore checked the books other coat patterns to see if i could make an educated decision based on them being very similar drafting patterns; as to where the point 13 was on these, however this did not answer my problem. query unfortunately. Therefore; I met with my tutor to discuss my problem and see if he could explain it to me or if he could direct me to where I could find out the answer! He explained to me that some historic patterns are more informative and better than others.. as tailors of this period which the books were, to some extent, written for by the tailor who found the original pattern, would have been making and creating constantly garments (all very similar ones too, as menwear style was not majorly indivually innovative yet) for about 10 years at least, before they would learn how to draft patterns and follow patterns. By which time they woulld have enough knowledge from making the garments that they would be able to assume and visualise where to plot points (where it would make sense to plot them! )
My tutor recommended to me to use the dress coat pattern from 'The modern tailor, clothier and outfitter' book by A.A Whife, as this was a reliable sourced book and had two other volumes that accompanied it which explained things of that days terms, that may not be used or the case today! These books were extremely helpful and I was able to complete my dress coat pattern from these books, although this book was published in the latter part of the 19th century, so therefore it was more of a modern pattern than I was hoping to create, but it could be adapted once the basic pattern had been drafted which was the key thing to remember!
Therefore, from this, I learnt that next time I use a historical pattern; read it through thoroughly first before decising on it due to it being the right 'look' to ensure it is explained from start to end in a way that you can follow as in many historic patterns; very little is explained in detail or any depth particularly. Unfortunely, this set me back a day on my pattern drafting and therefore a day back on my schedule! However, I had allowed time for minor set backs so therefore this was not a problem which would effect me getting my coat and shirt created for James' first fitting. However this did cause me a lot of fustration as time was limited if i was to come across any further problems when I was putting the coat and shirt together!
The shirt patter I got from................ book and was much more simple to draft! This is i feel to an extent because 19th century style shirts are more of a baggy, less stylised, fitted shape!!
For both the coat and the Jacket, the measurement of the length was down to you to decide based on the height measurement you had taken from the person that would be wearing the garment. I decided this by using a tape measure, setting a manequin to James' height, and from my design deciding where I wanted these to come to, however this was something I felt would have been much easier visalising and deciding upon, if I had of taken this measurement instead of my group member helping us out by doing all of the measurements she felt necessary when measuring James before the project!
To get around this, I decided to put one of my housemate's 21st century modern shirts on the manequin to see where this came to as a guide and then decide based on my historical research pictures and written information on the styles of this period!
I finished creating both the patterns and added the adaptations I wanted to make to the Jacket pattern such as the lapel, which I wanted to make quite large and pointed, and the centre front line with a slight gap when it closed!
The sleeves and the collar for the jacket and shirt I drafted separately; as these are much more straight forward standard patterns which are always down to the cutter(maker) to adapt and decide! I made my colour very pointed to follow the sharpness of the jacket and the sleeves I followed the 19th century pattern and enseure they were to james' measurements; these I did not adapt to keep historical factors and would simply fit at the first fitting!
I was pleased when I had finished drafting my patterns and felt a sense of much confidence in my abilites that I have developed. Despite the set back; I was pleased I had managed to create these patterns and could continue to the next step with no major problems or no problems overhanging!
Wednesday 14 April 2010
designs- initial designs (uncoloured)
These were my initial uncoloured outline designs. When I sent them to James; he responded with a definate liking to design 2; therefore this was my chosen design to make!
I did not feel there was a further need to do a design in colour as I have gone about my design process differently to my group anyway.. producing clear mood boards illustrating the fabrics considered, decoration and embellishment and definate colour palette' black, greys, charcoal, burnt amber!!
This I felt was simply a different way of designing and seeing as I have shown the mood boards to James, to give him an idea of my proposed plans for this design, I once again did not feel the need to claify this further by producing a coloured design; especially since we are limited to 9 weeks for the whole project and therefore would prefer to begin pattern drafting now I know the shape etc! (This was also not a priority for me,, as my design skills are very basic and therefore hence why I chose to go about my design porcess more through research and creating mood boards from this to illustrate my direction. If I had felt these mood boards were not direct and illustrative of my direction for my design/ designs; I would have then of gone onto draw the design up in a more detailed, specified manner! James clarified he understood the direction of the materials, shapes etc and was happy for me to go ahead!
Therefore this was the confirmation which began my pattern sourcing, drafting and fabric shopping!
mood boards! (finally found how to upload these!!)
Sorry for the long delay! These are my mood boards I created in my research period and then went on to use for my design process! Feel free to take a look as it helps support my designs!
reflective post on designing!
Ok, so when I went to Hansons fabric shop I had created a few designs, and emailed them to James, however I had not managed to do what I said in my earlier post; and managed to allow time for him to email me back regarding which pf my designs he liked best. I had chosen the two that I liked best, but I still really wanted the final decision to come from him, as it is my primary aim for him to be completely happy with his garments! This was another reason why I was only looking at fabrics at Hansons and getting an idea of what they had! However like I said in my reflection of my shoipping trip to Hansons; this was not really a big issue!
Interestingly, I was originally a little worried about the designing element of this project as I know that I do not possess particularly good human figure drawing skills; hence why I chose to specialise in making this year as opposed to specialising in design! However, from a designer's presentation that we had to attend for the last project, and from my work experience with a designer who was working on Lady GaGa and her dancer's costumes, it was made clear that designing didnt necessarily have to be about drawing; it could be through mood boards, line drawings of your proposed costume without it being 'on' a figure, or even using a model from a magazine and drawing on the computer your clothing design onto them! This therefore reassured me and made me less apprehensive about producing designs! I used several of these processes all of which back up and reinforce each other. To create my drawings I used tracing paper and traced the outline of model's standing positions and faces (to some extent) from magazine cuttings, I then was able to draw onto the bodies my designs and alter the face to look a little like my band member! The mood boards help to support, communicate and illustrate my designs and ideas as they show a colour palette, fabrics I was looking to be using, shapes and styles I liked, and elenments of decoration and decorational features I liked. I created these using photoshop and added notes to them so as when I was designing I knew the key elements I liked of the images I have used for the photomontage boards!
All in all I was very pleased with my initial designs. I did not originally add colour to these, instead I scanned and emailed the samples of the fabrics I had gathered from Hansons that I liked and was looking to use, and scanned a bead that I would be using on any of the designs with beads, along with the other components on some of the others, such as the row of sequins!! I also emailed james the mood boards with the samples so as he could gain an understanding of my direction. On reflection, if the projects time schedule had not of been so tight, I would have posted to him the actual samples or met with him to discuss these, however due to time schedules for both of us and distance; these was not possible. But I do realise this would be more accurate to how industry would work!
I then went on to add colour to the designs, despite my main colour palette being black and smokey grey/ black with elements of a dark red (maroon) or grey/blue!
This just helped to clarify what was what in my designs and relate further to my mood boards!
Interestingly, I was originally a little worried about the designing element of this project as I know that I do not possess particularly good human figure drawing skills; hence why I chose to specialise in making this year as opposed to specialising in design! However, from a designer's presentation that we had to attend for the last project, and from my work experience with a designer who was working on Lady GaGa and her dancer's costumes, it was made clear that designing didnt necessarily have to be about drawing; it could be through mood boards, line drawings of your proposed costume without it being 'on' a figure, or even using a model from a magazine and drawing on the computer your clothing design onto them! This therefore reassured me and made me less apprehensive about producing designs! I used several of these processes all of which back up and reinforce each other. To create my drawings I used tracing paper and traced the outline of model's standing positions and faces (to some extent) from magazine cuttings, I then was able to draw onto the bodies my designs and alter the face to look a little like my band member! The mood boards help to support, communicate and illustrate my designs and ideas as they show a colour palette, fabrics I was looking to be using, shapes and styles I liked, and elenments of decoration and decorational features I liked. I created these using photoshop and added notes to them so as when I was designing I knew the key elements I liked of the images I have used for the photomontage boards!
All in all I was very pleased with my initial designs. I did not originally add colour to these, instead I scanned and emailed the samples of the fabrics I had gathered from Hansons that I liked and was looking to use, and scanned a bead that I would be using on any of the designs with beads, along with the other components on some of the others, such as the row of sequins!! I also emailed james the mood boards with the samples so as he could gain an understanding of my direction. On reflection, if the projects time schedule had not of been so tight, I would have posted to him the actual samples or met with him to discuss these, however due to time schedules for both of us and distance; these was not possible. But I do realise this would be more accurate to how industry would work!
I then went on to add colour to the designs, despite my main colour palette being black and smokey grey/ black with elements of a dark red (maroon) or grey/blue!
This just helped to clarify what was what in my designs and relate further to my mood boards!
Tuesday 13 April 2010
fabric trip to Hansons fabric shop on the 25/03/2010
One member of the group kindly offered to drive, as we would not have been able to visit hansons if someone was not to drive as it is in a relatively remote location where there is not easy or much if any public transport from bournemouth. Equally I do not necessarily think we would have considered this trip if this was the case; as it would essentually have meant adding on high travel expenses to our fabric budget! Either, consequently limiting our choice to price or... having to go to a closer shop and buy something that maybe wasnt perfect and exactly what we wanted, but closest and having to settle for that!
The evaluation of the trip:
I felt this was a worthwhile trip; despite not buying any fabric; meerly looking to see what was there, getting sample and card to be able to get the fabric again if i wanted to use it for my final piece! The other girls in the group bought both their fabrics that day (their jacket fabrics and their trouser fabric) Their trouser fabric was all matching, however their jacket fabrics did vary in colours and slightly in texture due to their different designs!
On reflection of this, i realised that the three of them buying the same trouser fabric would mean that when i was sourcing my trousers; i would have to be very particular and fussy to get the closet match possible to avoid my band member looking not linked to the band! Likewise; when i buy my shirt fabric they will have to take this into consideration when sourcing their shirts! I did not buy my fabric on this trip as I personally felt I did not want to rush into buying the first fabric i saw! Also being on a bugdet, and knowing I would be back in london at home in less than a week from this date; I wanted to see if shepherds bush did any fabrics similar for a cheaper price or any fabrics I liked more and felt would be more appropriate! This trip however was very useful, as the girls bought the majority of their fabrics and components; therefore I was able to see the colours, shapes of components they chose, and textures they would be using to consider this when I was deciding and buying my fabrics and components and how I could ensure I was tying it into their costumes! (Creating costumes for a band, not individuals this way!) This trip equally allowed me to see the average price per metre of fabrics I was looking at to use to set a rough fabric forcasted budget!
All in all there are pro's and cons to my desicision to not buy stright away! In terms of cons; the girls would not be able to see my actual fabric decision untill the 1st fitting when i would bring them to show my band member too! Also, it meant another day; I would have to allow for fabric shopping where they could be working on their toiles; however as i have mentioned previously, I have created a schedule and was not on placement over easter and therefore felt this was necessarily a bad decision I made at all!
(see my schedule for my proposed fabric shopping day over easter)!
The evaluation of the trip:
I felt this was a worthwhile trip; despite not buying any fabric; meerly looking to see what was there, getting sample and card to be able to get the fabric again if i wanted to use it for my final piece! The other girls in the group bought both their fabrics that day (their jacket fabrics and their trouser fabric) Their trouser fabric was all matching, however their jacket fabrics did vary in colours and slightly in texture due to their different designs!
On reflection of this, i realised that the three of them buying the same trouser fabric would mean that when i was sourcing my trousers; i would have to be very particular and fussy to get the closet match possible to avoid my band member looking not linked to the band! Likewise; when i buy my shirt fabric they will have to take this into consideration when sourcing their shirts! I did not buy my fabric on this trip as I personally felt I did not want to rush into buying the first fabric i saw! Also being on a bugdet, and knowing I would be back in london at home in less than a week from this date; I wanted to see if shepherds bush did any fabrics similar for a cheaper price or any fabrics I liked more and felt would be more appropriate! This trip however was very useful, as the girls bought the majority of their fabrics and components; therefore I was able to see the colours, shapes of components they chose, and textures they would be using to consider this when I was deciding and buying my fabrics and components and how I could ensure I was tying it into their costumes! (Creating costumes for a band, not individuals this way!) This trip equally allowed me to see the average price per metre of fabrics I was looking at to use to set a rough fabric forcasted budget!
All in all there are pro's and cons to my desicision to not buy stright away! In terms of cons; the girls would not be able to see my actual fabric decision untill the 1st fitting when i would bring them to show my band member too! Also, it meant another day; I would have to allow for fabric shopping where they could be working on their toiles; however as i have mentioned previously, I have created a schedule and was not on placement over easter and therefore felt this was necessarily a bad decision I made at all!
(see my schedule for my proposed fabric shopping day over easter)!
group discussion/ reflective group meeting!
This meeting was basically so that we could all discuss where we were up to with our designs and arranging a date we could or most of us could make for the fitting!
Both me and another group member were still at the designing stages but proposed to have the designs done within the next one or two days of this meeting! The other two girls had completed their designs and were at the stage of sending them off to their band members regarding which one they liked most, or deciding which one they would send to their band member as their proposed design! I had decided that as I was working on this project with my band member,and it had to be a very collaborative process in order to achieve providing what he wanted; I was going to send him all of my designs and he could tell me which he liked best, but also if there were any elements form the other that he wanted any to include within his selected one, or equally any elements he dislike and wanted changed or he felt would not be appropriate for performing! However, I don't think all of the girls i am working with did this necessarily, as we are all going about this project in our own ways in terms of our time schedules for when we do things and how we go about things, but have meetings such as the one above to discuss how things are going and new ideas etc to ensure that the costumes will tie in together! This does make me worry that we should be working more together. By this i mean, in terms of the way we are approaching the project and relating to our selected band members we are making for, but i guess we are still all adding our own touch of personality and creativity to our garments and process of making them and therefore if we were doing everything the same way all the time, we may be restricted in showing and creating this! In a similar way; the band members all have their own personalities and styles slightly so therefore i do not feel their costumes/ garments should necessarily be made from matching materials! As long as we make sure key elements tie all of the costumes together and keep this in mind throughout the process I feel they will be a success and will come together well! By having weekly meetings and discussions; I feel we are all on the same track in wanting to ensure things come together!
From this meeting we decided;
- me and the other one of the girls thsat hadn't done our designs would do them!
- the 2 others in the group would find their patterns and begin pattern drafting as they both had less time over easter as they would be on placement!
- colour pallete: black, grey, navy/dark blue
- the first fitting that suited the majority of us was 6th April (over easter) in the evening; this is providing the band were oall ok with this date too! Unfortunately one group member would not be able to make this fitting, but she suggested rather than rearranging one for her with all of us there, she would be happy for us to fit hers to her band member (who could make the fitting)!
I was not necessarily sure that I would be happy to have done this if I had of been in her situation, and made sure that she felt she could re-arrange it with us there to support her another time, but equally this fitting date was convienient for most of us and therefore without shortening the amount of time we would have to create our final garments ready for the 2nd fitting (the almost finished fitting!) this date was best! Also, we had to consider the band shedules and dates that all of most of the band members could do too! Therefore this date all the band could do and considering they had to consider their work schedules (outside of the band) this date suited most!
- the second fitting date which we all could make we decided would be 3/05/2010. We decided this at the same time so as the band had plenty of notice! This we all believed, would allow us 3 weeks after easter to get our garments made up form our top fabrics and the decoration completed!
I feel the meeting was a productive part of working as a team and it allowed us to discuss where we were all at, how we were planning to move forward and plan dates and key group schedule date and dates we aimed to have key things done by!
We ended this meeting on this note and would be meeting again for our arranged fabric shop to Hansons, to buy/ get an idea for our fabrics on thursday 25/03/2010!
Both me and another group member were still at the designing stages but proposed to have the designs done within the next one or two days of this meeting! The other two girls had completed their designs and were at the stage of sending them off to their band members regarding which one they liked most, or deciding which one they would send to their band member as their proposed design! I had decided that as I was working on this project with my band member,and it had to be a very collaborative process in order to achieve providing what he wanted; I was going to send him all of my designs and he could tell me which he liked best, but also if there were any elements form the other that he wanted any to include within his selected one, or equally any elements he dislike and wanted changed or he felt would not be appropriate for performing! However, I don't think all of the girls i am working with did this necessarily, as we are all going about this project in our own ways in terms of our time schedules for when we do things and how we go about things, but have meetings such as the one above to discuss how things are going and new ideas etc to ensure that the costumes will tie in together! This does make me worry that we should be working more together. By this i mean, in terms of the way we are approaching the project and relating to our selected band members we are making for, but i guess we are still all adding our own touch of personality and creativity to our garments and process of making them and therefore if we were doing everything the same way all the time, we may be restricted in showing and creating this! In a similar way; the band members all have their own personalities and styles slightly so therefore i do not feel their costumes/ garments should necessarily be made from matching materials! As long as we make sure key elements tie all of the costumes together and keep this in mind throughout the process I feel they will be a success and will come together well! By having weekly meetings and discussions; I feel we are all on the same track in wanting to ensure things come together!
From this meeting we decided;
- me and the other one of the girls thsat hadn't done our designs would do them!
- the 2 others in the group would find their patterns and begin pattern drafting as they both had less time over easter as they would be on placement!
- colour pallete: black, grey, navy/dark blue
- the first fitting that suited the majority of us was 6th April (over easter) in the evening; this is providing the band were oall ok with this date too! Unfortunately one group member would not be able to make this fitting, but she suggested rather than rearranging one for her with all of us there, she would be happy for us to fit hers to her band member (who could make the fitting)!
I was not necessarily sure that I would be happy to have done this if I had of been in her situation, and made sure that she felt she could re-arrange it with us there to support her another time, but equally this fitting date was convienient for most of us and therefore without shortening the amount of time we would have to create our final garments ready for the 2nd fitting (the almost finished fitting!) this date was best! Also, we had to consider the band shedules and dates that all of most of the band members could do too! Therefore this date all the band could do and considering they had to consider their work schedules (outside of the band) this date suited most!
- the second fitting date which we all could make we decided would be 3/05/2010. We decided this at the same time so as the band had plenty of notice! This we all believed, would allow us 3 weeks after easter to get our garments made up form our top fabrics and the decoration completed!
I feel the meeting was a productive part of working as a team and it allowed us to discuss where we were all at, how we were planning to move forward and plan dates and key group schedule date and dates we aimed to have key things done by!
We ended this meeting on this note and would be meeting again for our arranged fabric shop to Hansons, to buy/ get an idea for our fabrics on thursday 25/03/2010!
Monday 12 April 2010
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